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Getting my Elise ready for an event this week at Daytona. In the process I was putting new tires on the car. When torquing the Drivers side rear two of the stud broke off before I reached torque spec...

The studs have about 60 events days on them and upon inspection it appears one had a small crack in the treads as there is a bit of rust shadowing the stud which covers about 30% of the sheared surface. The other one broke off at the hub right where the threads stop after the stud is installed in the hub. No sign of any previous damage to this one but the surface of the metal looks odd...

Just a heads up for those who are running studs..Not an item I generally spent a lot of time checking but I will in the future....Far better to break off in the garage then out on the track!
 

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Paul S,
What brand/type/fromwho studs were you using?
 

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this is why it's always a good idea to change your studs out regularly. fred does his every year, and i plan on doing the same. cheap insurance, relatively.
 

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Is there something about these that make them inherently inferior or weaker than cars that come with wheel studs from the factory? Haven't heard many stories of Corvette, Porsche, or BMW guys checking and replacing studs regularly due to failures.
 

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this is a good reason to go with ARP studs, and never, never allow an impact to be used on your wheels. Over torquing, severe over torquing, is one of the reasons wheel studs fail. Not saying this has anything to do with this case, but even the Lemons Car gets ARP studs.
 

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Serious agreement on banning impact tools, especially for ARP studs. I had to "help" the local tire ship wean themselves from their impact tool, and reach for a torque wrench when they work on my car. Too many shops have a "tighten till it squeals" mentality.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here's another request for the brand of stud...
The studs were from Sector...They replaced them at a small discount and I returned the broken parts to them for evaluation...Never heard back???? These were never subjest to an impact wrench, I ALWAYs use a torque wrench to set the nuts
 

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Sector111 studs? Hmmm, that is bad news for a lot of people. How long had the studs been on your car? Track days too?
 

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I cannot measure the IQ of the guy with the impact gun, so the only safe assumptions is: no impact guns.
 

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It doesn’t make any difference whose studs you have…if the hubcentric fit is loose, nobody’s studs will hold your wheel on. I’m more interested in the manufacturer of your wheels. Whose wheels do you have? I want to know what wheels to stay away from. Also, do you still have the OEM hubs, or have they been replaced? This is not nearly enough information to jump to conclusions… help us out here by giving us all the information on the fit of the center bore of the wheel to the hub boss…include measurements.

Wheel spacers will also bake studs like nobody's business...where wheel spacers ever on that car?

This is a classic case of the symptoms and the disease…the symptoms are that your studs are failing…the disease is probably that you don’t have a good fit between your wheel and the hub.
 

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Nate379, that is certainly one way to mitigate the risk!
 

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It doesn’t make any difference whose studs you have…if the hubcentric fit is loose, nobody’s studs will hold your wheel on. I’m more interested in the manufacturer of your wheels. Whose wheels do you have? I want to know what wheels to stay away from. Also, do you still have the OEM hubs, or have they been replaced? This is not nearly enough information to jump to conclusions… help us out here by giving us all the information on the fit of the center bore of the wheel to the hub boss…include measurements.

Wheel spacers will also bake studs like nobody's business...where wheel spacers ever on that car?

This is a classic case of the symptoms and the disease…the symptoms are that your studs are failing…the disease is probably that you don’t have a good fit between your wheel and the hub.

Hubcentricity is not a bad thing, but the idea that the studs are going to break if the wheel is not hubcentric is absurd.

Spacers don't "bake studs," either - once torqued, the stud can't tell the difference between a spacer and a wheel with less backspacing.

I've been autocrossing since 94. Up until this year, NONE of my wheels have been hubcentric. I used spacers a lot of the time.

My most recent car (1968 BMW 2002) used the same studs I put on my Lotus - bought them from the same place (http://www.bildon.com/) that I did for the BMW.

The BMW did countless autocross runs (probably into the 1000s), was WAY up on two wheels way too many times (was running 15x10.5/275/35-15s) - and when it comes back down, it comes down HARD - bashed over lots of nasty concrete at Forbes, was sometimes street driven, etc. 99% of it was with spacers, 100% of it was with non-hubcentric wheels.

I've blown up motors, had driveshafts fail, had various things go wrong with my autocross cars over the years.

Never had a wheel fall off. Not once. Having hubcentric wheels is nice, likely helps reduce vibration, it is certainly not BAD, happy I've got 3 sets of hubcentric wheels for the lotus, that's fantastic.

Oh, I've never snapped a stud, either.



Iain
 
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