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I much prefer proper crimps (and heat shrink) over solder, the heat from solder can embrittle the wire and create a potential failure point where the solder ends; add vibration and you get fatigue failure of the wire at that point. If you do solder, make sure you stress protect the entire joint and adjacent wire (heat shrink plus wrap).

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I much prefer proper crimps (and heat shrink) over solder, the heat from solder can embrittle the wire and create a potential failure point where the solder ends; add vibration and you get fatigue failure of the wire at that point. If you do solder, make sure you stress protect the entire joint and adjacent wire (heat shrink plus wrap).

my .02


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Me too, no soldier on my car except where it is potted.

That said now that I think about it, I would only do this mod again by potting the connector and adding properly made DTM connectors, but that might be too much to ask for some people.

Just a brief overview of what this means is I would soldier to the 6 pins on the TB, then pot (fill with epoxy) the area for stress relief of the soldier. Then bring those 6 wires to a DTM06. Then cut the TB connector off the harness, use a crimp like shown to wye off two of the wires for the 0-5V, then terminate in a DTM06, you can then boot/heatshrink/ATUM these as you desire, but they are technically water resistant like this already.

Lastly take the two loose wires for the aim system, terminate them in a DTM02, then take an aim extension cable, cut off the plastic end, and terminate it into the matching DTM. Very reliable and serviceable. I wish I had learned the "more proper" way to wire from the very beginning, its easier, faster and more reliable once you spend some money on tools and supplies.
 

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I much prefer proper crimps (and heat shrink) over solder, the heat from solder can embrittle the wire and create a potential failure point where the solder ends; add vibration and you get fatigue failure of the wire at that point. If you do solder, make sure you stress protect the entire joint and adjacent wire (heat shrink plus wrap).

my .02


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Yes, the problem with solder is that it does create a stress point in the wire. If the wire is not properly restrained against vibration, it will break the solder joint. Using heat shrink properly will actually move the flex point back from the solder joint and stop it from breaking.

Later,
Eldon
 

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Me too, no soldier on my car except where it is potted.

That said now that I think about it, I would only do this mod again by potting the connector and adding properly made DTM connectors, but that might be too much to ask for some people.

Just a brief overview of what this means is I would soldier to the 6 pins on the TB, then pot (fill with epoxy) the area for stress relief of the soldier. Then bring those 6 wires to a DTM06. Then cut the TB connector off the harness, use a crimp like shown to wye off two of the wires for the 0-5V, then terminate in a DTM06, you can then boot/heatshrink/ATUM these as you desire, but they are technically water resistant like this already.

Lastly take the two loose wires for the aim system, terminate them in a DTM02, then take an aim extension cable, cut off the plastic end, and terminate it into the matching DTM. Very reliable and serviceable. I wish I had learned the "more proper" way to wire from the very beginning, its easier, faster and more reliable once you spend some money on tools and supplies.
Kevin,

I take it that you have not used Autosports connectors. These are what are used by all of the professional race teams and are the same type of connectors on the AIM dashes. They are not cheap to the point that the pins are usually around a $1 each instead of pennies, connectors are $30 - $100 each or more. The boots can also have epoxy in them so when you shrink them they create a watertite seal and strain relief. You can go the cheap route and use the plastic Deutch connectors but I do not like them because they do not do a good job of strain reliefing of the wire. Also, they are big and look chessy.

Later,
Eldon
 

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I have used them where I have to, I also have some mil-spec connectors. I would honestly rather just use DTM wherever I can despite them being bigger because as with many things, ease of use is more important then ultimate possible quality when I am just a guy in my garage! Just for reference everyone else a DTM06 connector for 6 small wires costs $18,and the tool $35 an autosport costs $130 and the tool $330 plus $55 for the die. Plus the autosport connectors are "serviceable" but its SUPER hard to depin them vs trivial in a DTM.
 

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I have used them where I have to, I also have some mil-spec connectors. I would honestly rather just use DTM wherever I can despite them being bigger because as with many things, ease of use is more important then ultimate possible quality when I am just a guy in my garage! Just for reference everyone else a DTM06 connector for 6 small wires costs $18,and the tool $35 an autosport costs $130 and the tool $330 plus $55 for the die. Plus the autosport connectors are "serviceable" but its SUPER hard to depin them vs trivial in a DTM.
Your pricing is a little off on the connectors. I can buy a 6 pin connector, with pins, for around $40. Then add $16 dollars for the boots.

Actually, it is not hard to depin them if you know the secrets in using them. I will tell you one trick is to use alcohol on the insertion and desertion tool. This makes it very simple. Without it, it can be a real pain. This trick is actually in the user's manual for the connectors.

I have also found the crimp tool very useful for other crimping purposes, like putting sleeves over the end of wires to protect them when inserting them into screw terminals. I prefer the 4 point crimp over the square crimp.

Later,
Eldon
 

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As to the throttle position or pedal position, what exactly are you trying to log? What the engine is doing or what the driver is doing? I don't know how the Lotus ECU is set up, but on a Toyota throttle by wire, I question if there is any solid relationship between the pedal position and throttle position. The computer can be doing what it wants.
 

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As to the throttle position or pedal position, what exactly are you trying to log? What the engine is doing or what the driver is doing? I don't know how the Lotus ECU is set up, but on a Toyota throttle by wire, I question if there is any solid relationship between the pedal position and throttle position. The computer can be doing what it wants.
The ECU has a curve that translate the pedal position to the throttle position. As @kfennell said, most likely from the factory, they are most likely 1:1. Now, if you have a tune, it is possible that this is no longer true.
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Eldon
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
As to the throttle position or pedal position, what exactly are you trying to log? What the engine is doing or what the driver is doing? I don't know how the Lotus ECU is set up, but on a Toyota throttle by wire, I question if there is any solid relationship between the pedal position and throttle position. The computer can be doing what it wants.
Trying to log what the driver is doing.

The ECU has a curve that translate the pedal position to the throttle position. As @kfennell said, most likely from the factory, they are most likely 1:1. Now, if you have a tune, it is possible that this is no longer true.
Later,
Eldon
Now if that's true, I will have to test log both throttle and pedal data to see how dyno tune with EMU Black changed them..:unsure:
 

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If you're trying to log the driver, then I would use the pedal sensor. It is most likely a linear pot, but easy enough to check.
 
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