The Lotus Cars Community banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Is it the 2 allen bolts on the back of the caliper (one on top, one on bottom), which means I'll have to unbolt both for it to flip? What size allen? I know it's slightly smaller than an 8mm but 7mm is too small

I wanted to bleed all the air out of the brake lines sans the ABS. Was going to do the rears then flip the front calipers bleed upside down then right side up
 

·
He's on fire!
Joined
·
3,086 Posts
find instructions for replacing the rotors, it involves removing the front calipers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
It sounds like you're looking at the right ones. They're definitely 8mm hex head bolts, maybe you just have some corrosion on them if your tool does not fit. They both need to come off and then the caliper is free. Remove the pads first and don't pump the pedal with the bleed nipple closed or you'll push the pistons out.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,302 Posts
May I suggest you invest in the shop manual for your car?

Also, I've never had to turn the caliper upside down to bleed it properly.

What issue are you trying to solve?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
May I suggest you invest in the shop manual for your car?

Also, I've never had to turn the caliper upside down to bleed it properly.

What issue are you trying to solve?
If air gets caught in the side of the caliper without a bleed nipple, there is no way to get it out without flipping the caliper. So either he bled incorrectly before and let air back in the system or he opened the system for some other reason. Regular bleeds don't require this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I looked at it some more. Yea have to remove the two 8mm hex bolts on the back of the caliper. they're on tight, I tried pb blaster, but will look into an 8mm hex for my impact gun


find instructions for replacing the rotors, it involves removing the front calipers
i downloaded the service manuals recently from lotus but a lot of the links were dead including the one for brakes

Not being a dich, but if your askin.. I would suggest letting some else do it for you
Done it on other cars, but wanted to make sure before hitting up the lotus

It sounds like you're looking at the right ones. They're definitely 8mm hex head bolts, maybe you just have some corrosion on them if your tool does not fit. They both need to come off and then the caliper is free. Remove the pads first and don't pump the pedal with the bleed nipple closed or you'll push the pistons out.
Yea turns out, previous owner had the dealer paint calipers black ,so the paint made the 8mm hex tight. I was able to get the 8mm pushed in far enough with the tap of a hammer. Bolts are on tight so will tackle another day when I get an 8mm hex for my impact

May I suggest you invest in the shop manual for your car?

Also, I've never had to turn the caliper upside down to bleed it properly.

What issue are you trying to solve?
read on other threads to get all the air out, the front should be flipped upside down. http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f101/pressure-bleeding-brakes-31368/

Already paid $25 on lotus to download shop manual but a lot of the links were down, so couldn't get all. I recently asked my dealer to sell me the hard copy, they're looking into it.
Brakes are fine, just flushed with ate super blue and wanted to see if I could get the pedal harder and to bite earlier, getting about 1.5 of travel before it bites. may be normal for the elise. my sti engaged at 1/2" and felt firmer when i switched to ate blue, but then again, different car.


If air gets caught in the side of the caliper without a bleed nipple, there is no way to get it out without flipping the caliper. So either he bled incorrectly before and let air back in the system or he opened the system for some other reason. Regular bleeds don't require this.
Yea I did a regular bleed with one man compressor system so no air got introduced. but just wanted to see if i could get the brake pedal firmer. No biggie, and I may end up leaving as is
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
I'm not sure why these other guys are giving you such a hard time. It's a simple process and you can ensure that the fluid is as good as possible. There's a little play in the top of the pedal, but once you feel the pads engage, there shouldn't be much "mush".
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I'm not sure why these other guys are giving you such a hard time. It's a simple process and you can ensure that the fluid is as good as possible. There's a little play in the top of the pedal, but once you feel the pads engage, there shouldn't be much "mush".
I edited my previous post and removed "mush". It's just 1.5" of travel before it bites. No complaints with it, but was just seeing if I could firm it up some by bleeding air. I bled them again without flipping the front caliper since i don't have the hex for my impact. No air bubbles at all, so I'm probably gonna leave as is. Not worth it for me right now to flip the front calipers to check for a difference. thanks again
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
11,302 Posts
Try this: Before you open the bleed valve, tap the caliper so the air bubbles clinging to the sides leave when the fluid does.

BTW, I use a cheap Sears hand-vacuum pump and brake bleed kit and do this right thru the spokes of the wheels.

Have tried lots of methods, but none resulted in harder pedal....and it's really easy.

If you decide to try it, let us know how it works out.
 

·
hello
Joined
·
284 Posts
Have you done a full flush recently, ie within the past year? If not, make sure you also get the clutch bleed nipple in the engine bay besides the 4 brakes. It made a small difference in my case.

The 8mm hex bolts were easy to take out with hand tools. So the dealer paint must be interfering. I tried the upside down caliper trick and it got a little more air our once. By and large if you hit it with a mallet you should get the same effect. This is what I do now.

there is a little travel on the brake pedal before it starts to engage. After that it is fairly solid when bled recently. In the beginning it used to drive me crazy, I adjusted the pedal height and I am used to it now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
173 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Did it earlier today. I tapped all the calipers before bleeding. Rebled the clutch, then the rears, then the fronts upside down then right side up. My 8mm bolts were on very very tight, but the impact gun removed them with ease.

here's a pic with the bolt out


I put the 8mm bolts back in with a touch of blue loctite, torqued to 33 ft lbs

pedal feels a little firmer. I measured 1" of travel before the brakes engage. Good enough for me.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top