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As per Eric L’s request, here are a few pics. Unfortunately its pouring out right now, so I can’t pull the car out. I’ll post better pics when I get a chance. Please don’t mind the dirty garage floor.… Spring cleaning hasn’t started yet.

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I would have to say that the Pirelli PZero Rosso Asimmetrico in 315/30-18" is pretty good too. I can go faster round a corner or a round about than with my 285's. In fact I had to leave the round about as I got a bit dizzy in the end... (I do this regularely when changing wheels or tires) And I can confirm they do okay in rain as well. Not that I like driving in rain, but sometimes you just cannot avoid it.
They have exactly enough Space under the Wheel Arches on my Esprit Turbo SE 1990, so NO rubbing or other issues. Later S4 model got even more space. The earlier 1988 is a bit more narrow under the Arches, and may rub a bit, also in the front end when turning. At least the two 1988 Stevens cars I am aware of, rub a little bit front with 235/40-17" and 285/35-18". I think they solved it by using lower profile or one size more narrow. But as this thread was about wider tires/Wheels on the Esprit, I love my 10,75" rears with 315/30-18".
Man, do they stick!
Did I mention that they stick well?
As I eventually will lower the car a Little bit, I'll report back if they rub. Surely don't want that. My ride height is now standard and on standard factory suspension (renewed, but factory).

I should also mention that I adjusted the Wheel angles to suit the Sport300 as it runs 315 rears (Sport 300: higher profile on 17" rear Wheels and 245 on 16" front). so I just used simple math to calculate that and adjusted accordingly, translating 1 degree +/- 6 minutes to milimeters to have an easy Measurement for adjusting the upper rear track arms to kip the Wheels inwards at the top. Over this Sumer I have seen no uneven Wear on the rears, with that adjustment.

It may also be interesting to know, that the weight difference between the AWI Monobloc and the OZ Futura's (in european larger sizes) are very favourable towards the split Wheels from OZ. I weighed mine WITH tires respectively:

Awi front 8,5x17 with 235/40-17: 25 Kg.
Awi rear 10x18 with 285/35-18: 27,00 Kg.
Futura front 8,5x17 with 235/40-17: 21,0 Kg.
Futura rear 10,75x18 with 315/30-18: 25,5 Kg.

A total weight saving of 4+4+1,5+1,5=11 kilo. And rember, that ths is unsprung weight. And the OZ six spoke monoblocs are heavier still, while the latest OZ multispoke Nova's are lighter.

Kind regards,
Redfox.
 

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So the rear 315's should work fine on the V8 (Nova wheels)?
That's only a 10" wheel, so 315 is a stretch. I'm have 305's on the OZ Futuras, and the sidewall flex is probably a bit more than is desirable.
 

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No, I'm afraid that I don't, but I have experience with Toyo Proxes in various versions, and I am running them front and rear on the AWI Monobloc's. That is Proxes T1-Sport. Note: there are a few different versions, and they are absolutely not the same. These stick very well indeed, and they have similar build and threadpatern as the Pirelli's in 315. I've done all season now on this combo, and I am happy to say, that I find that it works well, for dry road, for rain, for steering, braking and for wear and also they seem similar in compound. That is my take on the matter.

I agree with Sanj, hence the rebuilding of the outer lip on the 18"x10" rears to a slightly wider outer lip, being 10,75" in total and the tires sits perfectly. The Sport300 ran a wider lip as well, being 10,5" wide in total on the rears and thereby supporting the 315 wide tires (though still 17" and a higher profile).

For me, next is surely a set of R888R's or similar. But then I think I need a Quaife diff and a few other bits and bobs.

This tiresetup that I have now, is the one I will use when going through Europe to drive (both) sides of the "Transfagarashan" super mountain road in Romania (from Topgear) and the secret but even better "Trans Alpina" nearby. I pre-tested them both last year, in 2018 in a normal car. I do need to make some other preparations still though ;) For example I am trying to collect parts to swap the complete gear change mec to the late V8 version, which have one cable on each side and a much different and more direct and precise gearmaster.
Anyway, back to wide wheels. I cannot drive 7000Km's on a field trip through Europe on a set of R888R's. Too soft. Different heat cycles. And no rain please, though they did fare quite well on the recent video of the Sport300 on flutube.

Kind regards,
Redfox
 

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Discussion Starter #92 (Edited)
No, I'm afraid that I don't, but I have experience with Toyo Proxes in various versions, and I am running them front and rear on the AWI Monobloc's. That is Proxes T1-Sport. Note: there are a few different versions, and they are absolutely not the same. These stick very well indeed, and they have similar build and threadpatern as the Pirelli's in 315. I've done all season now on this combo, and I am happy to say, that I find that it works well, for dry road, for rain, for steering, braking and for wear and also they seem similar in compound. That is my take on the matter.

I agree with Sanj, hence the rebuilding of the outer lip on the 18"x10" rears to a slightly wider outer lip, being 10,75" in total and the tires sits perfectly. The Sport300 ran a wider lip as well, being 10,5" wide in total on the rears and thereby supporting the 315 wide tires (though still 17" and a higher profile).

Kind regards,
Redfox
FOX,
Would you please tell us about your stainless outer rims. Are they Radinox by Schmidt Co?

https://www.schmidt-wheels.com/radinox/

How much do they charge for this revolutionary product?
'
 

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Yes, they are radinox thin special formulated stainless steel, which can take a beating with no probs apparently. See videos on flutube. Sorry, but I haven't tested it by submerging the car into the ocean, despite that having been done successfully before, by a certain British gentleman with a liscense to kill.

So, the original aluminium outer lips on the european OZ Futura's are 2,0" front and 2,5" rear outer lips.
I wanted to increase the rear outer lips a bit to keep the 315's correctly seated. Lotus used a wider outer lip on the rears on their Sport300 OZ Futura, although they were 1" smaller in diameter both front and rear, and used a higher profile tyre as mentioned. So, the outer lips are 0,5" wider rear on the Sport300 car. I couldn't get that specifically, but I could get it slightly wider, by 1/4" still.
The Sport300 rear outer lips are 3,0" and therefore I got 3,25" rear outer lips from Felgenfuchs in Germany. Used special tools to dissasemble and reassemble the bolts and nuts. I used all the original ones, though I cleaned them up, and I had the nuts resurfaced in shiny galvanizing. No corrossion for the next two or three decades.
I will not, I repeat NOT, use chinese, or european (but originates from china) bolts and nuts. They are also of a higher grade steel and strengh, and are all marked "OZ".

Speaking of wheel width, Pirelli writes, that they advice a wheel width between 10,5 and 11" for their Pirelli PZero Rosso Asimmetrico 315/30-18". I think the 10,75" solution I made, suits perfectly.

I could choose between aluminium and radinox outer lips, and I have had three sets of BBS RS001 split rims on my former Golf, and I had enough of air humidity corrossion, so I went with the Radinox. They are extremely easy to clean with just a light sweep with a micro fiber cloth. No chemicals, no water, no mess. That's more like it ;)

I used blue Loctite on ALL bolts and nuts and tightened them down criss-cross in an 8-star fashion over 4 full rounds. I then had them measured on a special wheel and tyre balancer machine local to me, to make sure they were fully centered and true and radial, before sealing them up with heat/frost and fungus resistant sealant and it should be bouble-free! Then put on the tires and rebalanced it all. The smart thing about this tyre balancer machine is, that it can also calculate for road pressure, so that you move and truly minimize the few grams you add to balance. It also reduces imperfections when they step on asphalt, and makes tires last longer, as much as 5000kms for a normal set of tires. I don't expect that much more on an Esprit ;)

For the 10 star bolts and nuts, I used quality tools from KS tools in Germany. You need two, one for nuts, one for bolts. Not the cheapest, but very good quality for the purpose and you don't want to mess up an original OZ nut or bolt. Lifetime warranty on those tools. ½" sockets so I just used a couple of ½" extenders and precision torque wrenches from Wera.

felgenfuchs.de
KStools.com
and Wera.de

Remember that the front wheels are 17" 35 bolt holes, while the rears are 18" 40 bolt holes, if or when ordering. I paid 199 eur per rear outer lip in Radinox and 185 eur per front outer lip in Radinox. Sometimes they have to redo a batch, sometimes not. But they are very nice to work with, and I had absolutely no problems. Well packed and well shipped as well, if one may have an interest in those.

My calculation of correct distance to kip the rears inwards with the new wider wheels and tires are the following:
I was told that the Sport300 have a camber of 1 degree 6 minutes. Or rather 1 degree +/- 6 minutes. If we can assume this number is correct, that is the one I would like to work with.
Let's assume this is correct.
Let's also asume the the outer circumference of my rear Wheels are 2030,1mm, which i measured mine to be.
That would correspond to a total Wheel hight of 646,2mm more or less.
First I would calculate the degrees/minutes to angle degrees, by saying degrees + (minutes divided by 60).
That would be something like 1 degree 6 minutes = 1+(6 divided by 60)=1,1 degree.
Now I have an angle that I can calculate to radians, to get a decimal number, not an angle.
This I do this by multiplying the degree by Pi and divide that with 180 (half a circle).
So, that would be: (1,1*Pi) divided with 180= 0,0192 (radian number).
That radian number I need to re-calculate to a useable metric number in mm. which we may call the arch length.
The arch length is the distance between the inner upper point at the tyre side wall kipped inwards (or outwards), and the vertical point at the same height.
To do this, I need to use a formula saying arch length S = radian number * radius.
This means S = 0,0192 * 646,2 = 12,407mm.
So, the distance from vertical to the top point of the rear tire should be 12,407mm, which is easy to measure and adjust accordingly by turning the upper rear arm adjustable nut.
If we use a Lotus value of 1 degree straight (+/- 0), this would then mean that we calculate the S to be 11,27mm.
I then used a large 90 degree ruler (from a building warehouse) to adjust and measure and readjust and measure again. Same procedure for left and right, of course.

I know it's easier to just calculate it directly on my trusty HP41 calculator (and I did to verify), but I also wanted to demonstrate the method and the calculation itself, hence I did it manually.
That was easy and it works.

Kind regards,
Redfox
 

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30Nm and tightened from the nut end in the sequence I described.
By using titanium 6Al4V (grade 5), bolts, you may save 750 grams plus 300 grams in total on 4 wheels combined. I did not do that, as I had the original OZ fasteners replated.
Kind regards,
Redfox
 

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Don't the V8's have fender flairs, so their wheel fit is not applicable to the 4-cyl.
 

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Well, one might think so, but to my own experience and to the Stevens Esprit' friends here local to me, we all run V8 or euro S4s wheels of some sort, with no trouble, no need for flared arches, apart from the front situation I described earlier on some early 1988 carburettor Stevens turbo's. The SE model have bigger wheel cut outs (different body I suppose) and have no problems.
The S4/V8 have fender flares which are actually not that wide in reality, and certainly does not protrude very much more than the original SE/choose yourself wheel arches, so to speak. Where as the Sport300 did add a lighter wider one-piece front bumper that sort of transitions over into the flared arch extensions, which are wider than the s4/V8 ditto. It also sports a deeper rubber front bib.
Since I have acquired an intake plenum chamber enlargement kit, an original Sport300 set of add on strenghening tubes and aluminium bridge for the engine compartment, installed original Sport300 seats and original Sport300 turbo plus it's computer and fpr, I thought why not add the front bumper, rear wing and flared wheel arches? But I have other things that I want to do on the car first, so that's a lower priority. Now, as in this Winter, I can hopefully find someone who is skilled enough to finish the carbon tailgate that I bought in the UK, as it was really bad made and not fit for purpose. That have taken two years so far and counting.
Fortunately, my 1990 SE is without the ABS, airbags and powersteering, so no extra weight in that ;)
I am also doing all the LOTAC bushings, adjustable rear upper track arms, stronger front arb bushings and then some ( I havent installed the front Lotac bushings yet, as I want to do other things in the same time), to bring down weight and add traction, a bit of power and even better roadholding. The OZ Futura's with it's slightly wider 10,75" rear wheels running the 315/30-18" tires (with less flex than the Sport300's tires, were very high on my wish list, to improve on what's already there. It eats road and corners and with a delight for more. And more. In my book definately worth doing.
Personally, I like the way the Esprit drives, but it's too soft for my liking and rolls too much, so I'd like to work a bit on those points. Not a revolution, but a small evolution. I don't like and I don't need comfort. I only need road holding to be as good as can be with things in hand, and the car should look like it does, not turn into a track-wreck.
Then I acquired the gearshift cut out strenghening kit from a sport300, a set of upgraded gearbox internals etc, but those cannot be fitted to my 1990 gearbox, so I need a V8 gearbox and swap over parts plus the bellhousing. Then I might as well add the Quaife lsd while I'm at it. But so far, no gearbox in my posession as of yet. Then I installed a lighter tubular manifold, lighter free flow cat and lighter exhaust. I've now bought another instrument cluster so I can use 100mm original Sport300 speedo and rev counter as they are easier to see. Another Winter project. I've ordered a set of the newly made polybushings for the gearbox, so that is in control. I hope to do that this Winter. Meanwhile I've added a bigger main radiator and two new oil coolers so that I can keep things cool and nice. I also added a carbon airbox and a carbon/alu-end inner gearstick. Then came lighter exhaust brackets, some titanium bolts and aluminium washers and so on. Off came the spare wheel, the jack, the spare wheel holder etc. No, it does not serve as a security application. It just sits there. No reason for that. Which made a marked improvement in steering. Then came two aluminium fuel tanks. I usually only fill up the tanks half, or a bit more, if am going on a fun drive. Then came the bigger Sport300 intake tubing to the turbo to suit it's bigger diameter. Then I did the ram air mod and changed teh dimensions of the ear chift base pins ever so slightly, so there's less slack and more precision.
No, I don't use K&N or similar. I tried it brand new, and it lost horsepowers on the dyno. We tried various set-ups and it came up with the same result. And it does not filter well. I've been demonstrated enough dead turbos to avoid those filter at all costs. It also kills the G-lader on my Corrado G60, so that's a no-go.
I am also looking into some other improved front steering arms and upper rear track arms with no bushings, but a rose joint (but ONLY for the upper ones), an improved cross bar under the rear luggage compartment, a thicker front arb and light weight suspension with stiffer springs that can only be used if I can improve the stiffness in the car as a whole (more or less). The Sport300 had two more bolts holding the body to the chassis, than previously. I'll copy that if I can. For this purpose, I am also trying to look into cryotreating the whole chassis and gearbox internals complete. To me at least, lowering the weight, also means less stress (well, in theory all other things being equal) on the brakes, the chassis etc, so less tendency to twist and bend while under load.
Meanwhile I thought about the late V8 gearchange mec and got a nos one, and later the right end cover for the gearbox. So now, I've ordered cables and bracketry to do that install this Winter, hopefully. Again, for the better more precise gearchift, making the process of accelerating and going into corners more efficient.
Anyway, the engine improvement I have already done as described, together with electric pump for the chargecooler, carbon roof and many other things, made quite a difference in how the car performs. I dyno everything before and after every single change. The car is now fairly much faster than standard, so I installed much bigger and lighter brakes to suit. Now the Esprit is not dangerous to drive fast. I'd really like an extra cylinderhead, improved as per Sport300 and later S4s. Oh well, in due time.
The reason for mentioning all this is, that I don't see a performance rise in any area for the Esprit (or anything else) as a specific area that one may improve on; I see it more as a total sum of many small areas that, and when they act together, are more than they can bring each individually. I should mention, that I don't want a track car, but an improved road car.
As it is now, there are plenty of things to do for the next few years ;)
I hope this clears up matters.
Okay, so back to wide wheels ;) I know that very few sets of 18" x 12" S4s OZ Futura wheels have been made, but how they perform, I cannnot say anything about. It would be interesting to hear more about that from the owners.

Kind regards,
Redfox

Below: my improved inner gearstick that saves 185 grams and the airbox that saves an extra 346 grams.
 

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Yes. The package I received them in, also stated "Schmidt". I think I paid a tad over 175 eur per front outer lip and a bit over 200 eur per rear outer rim in Radinox. They were a little bit less expensive, than right now.
I bought them from Felgenfuchs.de in Germany. Nice people to deal with. and well packed.

After having used them for more than 14 months now, I can report that there are none, read zero, corrosion or marks on the wheels and rims. Nothing sticks to these outer Radinox lips. And I've never cleaned the wheels since building them. I use a small microfiber cloth every month during driving season and once after taking the car out after Winter storage, and that's it. No polishing, no time-consuming wheel cleaning using super expensive toxic nature-nonfriendly gene-altering chemical nanocrap wheels products. Just a microfiber cloth for ten seconds on each lip - in fact the whole wheel. Easiest I've ever had.
I just measured them yesterday for true and if they are still radial, and they run perfect.
No center caps on the fronts here, as I am installing new suspensiona and new Lotac bushings, ball joints etc. and setting up geo.

Highly recommended. (I am not affiliated).

Cheers,
Redfox.
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