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2007 Lotus Elise Storm Titanium
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Picked up a 2007 Elise just over a month ago. Already have done some things to the car (I understand this is personal taste) Headliner delete, carpet delete, sun visor delete, and replaced all the seat bolts with stainless steel. I also have a bunch of parts on order: rubber floor mats, aluminum floor mat buttons, carbon fiber wide side scoops, front splitter from Moto-build.com, new rear speakers, race mirrors, and ethos wheels 15/16 setup, and rock guards.

My question is what to do next.... should I continue down the path of cosmetic upgrades or are there mechanical things I should focus on preemptively?

Cosmetic: rear diffuser, exhaust (I consider this cosmetic since it doesn't increase performance all that much), mesh grill kit, etc.

Mechanical: replace toe links, install baffled oil pan, replace front radiator

Car has 16k miles on it and everything looks fine mechanically... where would you put your money? or would you do something different?

I will mostly drive this car as a daily driver with some spirited canyon driving 1x per month and a goal to eventually auto cross and then step up to some track driving.

Thanks for your opinions!

1293172
 

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Why on gods earth would you replace the seat bolts with Stainless, unless you bought very special SS bolts. First off SS bolts are not as strong as the bolts that are already in there, and secondly, they are heavier. 😂
 
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2007 Lotus Elise Storm Titanium
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Why on gods earth would you replace the seat bolts with Stainless, unless you bought very special SS bolts. First off SS bolts are not as strong as the bolts that are already in there, and secondly, they are heavier. 😂
Good to know... I'll look into ordering stock bolts. The interior of my car was a little rough and I had rust on the seat bolts so I swapped them out.
 

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And hopefully you used anti seize on the SS bolts so they don't gall when you remove them.
 
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Toe links and radiator gets my votes. These things can fail even just on the street.

And add anti seize to prevent the gall as already stated.

Perhaps add to the list - upgrade to your headlights to HIDs.
 

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2007 Lotus Elise Storm Titanium
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Toe links and radiator gets my votes. These things can fail even just on the street.

And add anti seize to prevent the gall as already stated.

Perhaps add to the list - upgrade to your headlights to HIDs.
Thanks. I was leaning towards the BOE links. I will also look into HIDs as well.
 

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Like you're plan and others said toe links and brace, radiator, shocks and inspect your bushings especially once you get into tracking. Plenty of threads on what to plan for and what you'll want to do for tracking. PO told me the two greatest improvements he experienced with the car was adding the Ohlinds and then the REV300.
 

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2005 Elise LSS Saffron Yellow
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BTW, always, always use antiseize on any ferrous fastener (steel or stainless) going into aluminum. Especially on parts of the car that get wet (like the interior of a convertible).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
BTW, always, always use antiseize on any ferrous fastener (steel or stainless) going into aluminum. Especially on parts of the car that get wet (like the interior of a convertible).
Yes. Thank you. I am actually going to do this tonight and moving forward.
 

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2007 Lotus Elise Storm Titanium
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Like you're plan and others said toe links and brace, radiator, shocks and inspect your bushings especially once you get into tracking. Plenty of threads on what to plan for and what you'll want to do for tracking. PO told me the two greatest improvements he experienced with the car was adding the Ohlinds and then the REV300.
I would love to do a supercharger.... maybe in a few years... that I would need to save up for.
 

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Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:



1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements. I

2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.



Sounds like this “excuse me”….


Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus. Or, from beloved parts supplier, RD Enterprises: Compact Air Horn $59




Ultra Compact two-tone air horn unit measures about 4-3/8" tall x 5" long x 3" wide and weighs under 2 lbs., and it's LOUD! The sound measured at 2 meters is 115 dB. Easy installation because there's only one part to install, horn compressor relay and instructions included.

Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”


Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.



(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.



Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.



Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )



3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k. As of this writing LEDs are not as good.



4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.



5. Transmission:



The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)



a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and



And, use:

Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:

https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/re-enforcer?category=Transmission



These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting. I also reoriented one swivel joint.



6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 -35 minutes after coolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.



For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them. Oil doesn’t get hot enough on street, leading to cam wiping.



I use Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel oil. 85k miles and fine, but one is not a useful example.



7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s and InoKinetic’s for two examples.



8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:




9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.



10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.



11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:



Remote Key Fob, Immobilizer & Misc Alarm Programming



12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.



You NEED a digital multimeter (voltmeter) to work on modern cars. Handy around house too. Get one this week.



13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.



14. If you are fooling with sparkplugs, remember to slather those tubes in dielectric grease (prevents shorts).



15. Visit the Uber Thread



**Elise/Exige Uberpost READ THIS. Everything you need...



16. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.

Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.



17. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.



Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.



18. Many benefits to joining Lotus Ltd (USA Lotus club). Get help wherever you are, using the contact booklet they update every year. (I’ve helped a few ppl who contacted me.) This is who stages LOGs (Lotus Owner Gatherings) every year. https://lotusltd.com


-----

Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:

Maintenance and Repairs.



How to Search:

For future reference: Don't use the search on this site. Simply use Google and end the search text with "site:lotustalk.com". E.g.
Transmission Fluid change what bolt site:lotustalk.com

no space between site: lotustalk.com
 

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2007 Lotus Exige S
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1,559 Posts
Seat Bolts - yes you need to replace the SS bolts with something stronger.

Toe Links - check to see if you already have a brace there or upgraded links first. If nothing has been done already you do need to upgrade here. I have the BOE links but they require drilling, it's easy enough but you also mentioned you are a rookie at mechanical items so consider this as there are some bolt on options as well. For me the real consideration with the BOE links is that if you plan to upgrade bushings later it'll make that more time consuming having to resize 2 bushings.

Seat Time - this is really the best upgrade out there. Get seat time either AutoX or on a track with an instructor. Once you know if this is a direction you want to go with this car then get more seat time and then start to upgrade the car. If street driving and canon carving is all you want to do the car really doesn't need anything aside from the toe links, good tires and suspension.
 

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Those last three words of your post. That experience might well help you figure which way you want to go with this car. And your own life experience.

Just curious. Replaced seat bolts with stainless. Wondered why.
 

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Registered
2007 Lotus Elise Storm Titanium
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Seat Bolts - yes you need to replace the SS bolts with something stronger.

Toe Links - check to see if you already have a brace there or upgraded links first. If nothing has been done already you do need to upgrade here. I have the BOE links but they require drilling, it's easy enough but you also mentioned you are a rookie at mechanical items so consider this as there are some bolt on options as well. For me the real consideration with the BOE links is that if you plan to upgrade bushings later it'll make that more time consuming having to resize 2 bushings.

Seat Time - this is really the best upgrade out there. Get seat time either AutoX or on a track with an instructor. Once you know if this is a direction you want to go with this car then get more seat time and then start to upgrade the car. If street driving and canon carving is all you want to do the car really doesn't need anything aside from the toe links, good tires and suspension.
Thanks. I will check out my Toe Links this week and assess them. Seat time is on my list... I have done some track time with my 911 prior to owning this Lotus but the cars are completely different in how they drive. So getting some more experience in the Lotus and with an instructor is definitely on my list.
 

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Registered
2007 Lotus Elise Storm Titanium
Joined
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Those last three words of your post. That experience might well help you figure which way you want to go with this car. And your own life experience.

Just curious. Replaced seat bolts with stainless. Wondered why.
Yeah... I honestly thought the stainless were stronger and would not rust. Lesson learned there. I am going to remove those tonight. My stock bolts are still usable they just have some minor rust on the top and can suffice until I order OEM replacements.
 

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Registered
2007 Lotus Elise Storm Titanium
Joined
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Note to new Elise & Exige Owners:



1. These cars have large (i.e. dangerous) blind spots. Multivex mirrors are NLA, but RLS (Really Light Stuff) offers very good tape-on replacements. I

2. The horns are way too weak (quiet). There’s an inverse relationship: smaller the car, louder the horn needs to be.



Sounds like this “excuse me”….


Get something such as a Stebel Nautilus. Or, from beloved parts supplier, RD Enterprises: Compact Air Horn $59




Ultra Compact two-tone air horn unit measures about 4-3/8" tall x 5" long x 3" wide and weighs under 2 lbs., and it's LOUD! The sound measured at 2 meters is 115 dB. Easy installation because there's only one part to install, horn compressor relay and instructions included.

Stebel: “HONK! LOOK OUT!”


Remove the stock horn; replace with louder.



(I drive with my finger on the horn button in any traffic. Iffy situations, my headlights are on.



Stay to the left of traffic, i.e. avoid passing on the right if you can.



Stop way behind trucks, SUVs, etc. Some have blindspots >50’. )



3. The early cars came with misaimed and dim headlights. If you drive at night, convert to HIDs. While better than stock halogen bulbs are available, HIDs throw more light. Stay around 5000k. As of this writing LEDs are not as good.



4. Ensure your car has had the work required by the recall for oil line fittings done. You could lose an engine and/or spin in your own oil.



5. Transmission:



The best transmission lube I’ve found is Redline MT-90 plus a little Power Punch Extreme Gear Oil Additive. (Note that it takes two changes to get rid of the previous lube.)



a) Early cars have wobbly shift towers. Look up Stan’s Mod (bolt and spacer; http://www.billswebspace.com/ShifterReinforcement.pdf) and



And, use:

Re-Enforcer long thru bolts that terminate under car and tie down the tower:

https://www.inokinetic.com/lotus/re-enforcer?category=Transmission



These (lube, mods) make a huge change in shifting. I also reoriented one swivel joint.



6. As per some engine builders on these sites, wait AT LEAST 20 -35 minutes after coolant has reached full operating temp before engaging cam switchover.



For street cars, consider removing one or both oil coolers. Some cover them. Oil doesn’t get hot enough on street, leading to cam wiping.



I use Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel oil. 85k miles and fine, but one is not a useful example.



7. Rear toe-links can loosen and break with disastrous results. You can check tq periodically, or use Nordlock washers. Best is conversion to better engineered brace, such as BOE’s and InoKinetic’s for two examples.



8. While under the car with panel off, look around for hoses and wires chafing their way to failure. That’s how this was found:




9. The stock radiators are prone to leaking where the end caps meet the metal part. Keep an eye on this. Most of us use single-pass all-aluminum radiators.



10. When your wheel well liner comes loose, skip the lame plastic rivet and use Well-Nuts instead.



11. Life will be better if you disable the auto-arming alarm function on the earlier cars. You won’t have to press a button to start the car. Instructions:



Remote Key Fob, Immobilizer & Misc Alarm Programming



12. These cars cannot be left off a Battery Tender for weeks at a time. Unless dead batteries are a particular joy of yours. Buy one right away. There are numerous threads here about which ppl use and like.



You NEED a digital multimeter (voltmeter) to work on modern cars. Handy around house too. Get one this week.



13, Some on this site are a bit obsessed with hockey pucks for lifting the car. Don’t use these. Too hard and slippery, generally, and too small a surface area. Use a piece of wood, as your hero does.



14. If you are fooling with sparkplugs, remember to slather those tubes in dielectric grease (prevents shorts).



15. Visit the Uber Thread



**Elise/Exige Uberpost READ THIS. Everything you need...



16. Most parts on the car are made by Toyota and others, so buying things like a/c compressors, engine parts, etc. is wildly expensive when purchased thru Lotus.

Toyota dealers, auto parts stores are way less expensive.



17. The soft high-grip tires on most of our cars lose much of that grip when temperatures drop below 50 F. I know of too many ppl who spun their cars when not remembering this. I use hi-performance all-seasons.



Note that many summer tires cannot even be stored in temps below 20 F.



18. Many benefits to joining Lotus Ltd (USA Lotus club). Get help wherever you are, using the contact booklet they update every year. (I’ve helped a few ppl who contacted me.) This is who stages LOGs (Lotus Owner Gatherings) every year. https://lotusltd.com


-----

Plus, “How to bleed brakes”:

Maintenance and Repairs.



How to Search:

For future reference: Don't use the search on this site. Simply use Google and end the search text with "site:lotustalk.com". E.g.
Transmission Fluid change what bolt site:lotustalk.com

no space between site: lotustalk.com
VERY helpful. Thank you.
 

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Registered
Joined
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7,365 Posts
Yeah... I honestly thought the stainless were stronger and would not rust. Lesson learned there. I am going to remove those tonight. My stock bolts are still usable they just have some minor rust on the top and can suffice until I order OEM replacements.
Highly recommend the kit that braces from underneath the car. Syspak one version. Bolts don’t matter so much as that they are threaded into aluminium, relatively very soft. Even easy to cross thread.

Especially good to do if some serious driving is ahead. Even with harness properly secured to cage/chassis we want that seat to stay where it is.
 
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