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Discussion Starter #1
I swapped the master cylinder in the "off season" for the Tilton from BOE, and have it working well. However....i'm getting the "wrench" icon and my cruise control isn't turning on. I had issues last year with the cruise being finicky (probably need to look at the switch) but I'm getting nothing at all when I hit the switch.

I checked on the potentionmeter (i think thats how its spelled?) on the clutch pedal, it's sitting properly on the pin and rotating as expected.

What else should i be checking? Is there a way to get a code from the wrench? I have an Obd scanner, but its not pulling any codes.
 

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Common issue with master cylinder replacements.



 

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Yep, it's likely the push rod distance. Needs to be rather exact for the potentiometer to not throw codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
By "center of the post" you mean the post that the potentiometer attaches, and not the clevis pin, correct?
 

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Correct. I also measured from the back pedal stop to that post, so if both of those measurements are close, it should be in the zone to not trigger the wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sweet. I pulled the clevis out and spun the rod a whole bunch of time, measured and i'm at about 5 3/8 and just under 3 to the pedal stop. drove it around the block, shifting a bunch, and turned it off and back on and no wrench :)

I didn't test the actual cruise function, but thats not as important to me as not seeing an "error" lol

Thanks man, you've saved my ass again!
 

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Finally found this and its not the CPS or BPS, both of which I have changed. Will pull clevis pin and adjust to 5 3/8ths So we have two adjustments actually. !st is the clevis pin and that adjustment screw. Second is ability to actually "screw" the rod into the MC? It seems folks selling these things should point out the need to adjust this BEFORE you install the new MC!!!
 

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Please have admins put all this MC stuff up in the how to zone!!!
 

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Finally found this and its not the CPS or BPS, both of which I have changed. Will pull clevis pin and adjust to 5 3/8ths So we have two adjustments actually. !st is the clevis pin and that adjustment screw. Second is ability to actually "screw" the rod into the MC? It seems folks selling these things should point out the need to adjust this BEFORE you install the new MC!!!
Ah yes, I forgot you had mentioned you replaced the mc with an aftermarket. The push rod length is adjustable, and should be set to the same length (firewall to clevis pin) as the OEM one you pulled out, prior to installing. That wasn't in the Wilwood instructions, but it's something I figured wouldn't hurt doing during install. A lot of aftermarket units, and even some stock ones have flats on the push rod to make it easy to spin with an open end wrench, but I don't believe the Wilwood one does. Not sure on the Tilton. Either way, you can grab the center of the push rod with a pair of vice grips and spin it; that part of the rod will never get close to the seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My wrench still comes on - I have adjusted several times and honestly lost interest in fixing it because of other issues I've been having.

I'm not following the "second" adjustment? I pull the pin, and spin the rod in or out to adjust. Is there something else that you guys are talking about?
 

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You are correct, I misinterpreted the ability to adjust the MC rod within the MC. Someone with more talent than me could elongate the fixation hole for the switch to allow the switch directly to be adjusted, thus allowing us to set clutch height as we desire. If that switch had some teeth on its back so it could be clicked whilst against the clutch pedal arm, it would make a very secure adjustment.
 
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