The Lotus Cars Community banner

21 - 40 of 40 Posts

·
Car Adicted
Joined
·
172 Posts
Thank you both for the advice. It is what I came across. It definetly helped to remove the w/w container. On the oil cooler bolts, I put vise grips on the nuts underneath and was able to then remove the bolts from the top. Ironically , as you all said the screws that held in the ductwork would just spin. I was able to put pressure on the backside with a screwdriver and actually used a impact drill with an extention and bit to get the screws out. I know have the idea of what does need to be done. Thanks Again for the help. Mark Seifert
 

·
Car Adicted
Joined
·
172 Posts
If all of your hardware is rusted out (mine was) then you will probably have to go at it with a dremel (there is no room for a grinder in there). All of the rivnut things were seized and would spin (sucks) and I had to cut them all out.
Just start by draining the oil and coolant as you have to remove the oil cooler lines and of course the rad.
Then start trying to undo the front lip, and all of the bits that make up the undertray. Almost all of mine were seized and had to be cut out.
Once you get all of that out of the way I was able to move the AC components out of the way and tied them up with some cord.

As I mentioned in the other post, I cut the cross connect hose between the oil coolers as the line is run through the rad assembly (of course not slotted). That was the only way I could get the oil coolers out of the way as I couldn't get to the top fitting to remove oil cooler line. You have to get the oil coolers and hoses out of the way or you can't get the rad assembly down. Cutting the hose made all of the difference because that allowed me to get the oil coolers out and then I could remove the lines on the bench (both were saved). I then just took the two hose pieces to a hydraulic shop and had a union installed in the hose. Made it so much easier and the union was small enough to fit back through the grommets in the tray.
Once I got the oil coolers out then you can start to work on the rad ass. itself. When you get close to having it loose make sure you have a buddy to help you lift it down. It is pretty heavy and quite awkward to lift out.

Radiator assembly was cracked in several places where the fans bolt up. I just repaired this with some fiberglass and resin and gave it a lick of paint.
I then took rad and had it re-cored at local shop. I have read that the aftermarket aluminum radiators do not last long so I opted to rebuild original (I don't want to have to do this any time soon...it sucks). The rad shop told me that after the rebuild I should see a huge improvement over the original (which was undersized to begin with).

I also had the oil coolers cleaned and pressure tested because...... I DON'T WANT TO DO THIS AGAIN.
Once you have all the crap hardware out and everything cleaned up it wasn't bad to put back together. You will want to try and source some new hardware (stainless if you can find it, not as easy as you would think in Metric.....google/amazon), it makes it so much easier to put back together.
While you are at it, contact JAE and get a new set of hoses for the rad and install those while you are in there.

Not a step by step, but should help I hope. I think every ones experience is a bit different depending on how rusty the hardware was.
Thanks for the advice. What a pain the butt it is. I enjoy......to a point the challenge, but would also enjoy it being simpler ! !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
McMaster Carr is a great source for stainless hardware.
 

·
My car sneezes
Joined
·
620 Posts
I like to hit the corners of the radiator support with a 20-lb sledge hammer. It'll shatter the radiator support but the radiator will fall right out. Afterwards, a little JB Weld on the radiator support and you'll be good as new. 😄
 

·
Car Adicted
Joined
·
172 Posts
I like to hit the corners of the radiator support with a 20-lb sledge hammer. It'll shatter the radiator support but the radiator will fall right out. Afterwards, a little JB Weld on the radiator support and you'll be good as new. 😄
Gonzo, you helped me when it came to my coil pack replacement. You called me on a Sunday....Daytona 500 was going on. I couldn't have done it without this forums help. I thought that was hard.....at first, but actually I would rather do that than remove this radiator. I have it on a 4 post storage lift, which while not complaining it does make it tight trying to get the Radiator support and the oil cooler ducts out. I have both oil coolers out and what is holding me up a bit is the oil line in front which they routed through the oil cooler ducts and it also goes thru the radiator support. They also routed the line thru the a/c line on the passenger side. I gave up for tonight. No real rush, but jeez.....I can tell it has never been out. It is dirty, but not as bad as some other posts. Also, It looks like you need to remove the ac lines cause it looks like the condenser comes out with the radiator. I do appreciate everyone's help. Now where did I leave my sledgehammer...............
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,206 Posts
There are plastic clips that hold the A/C lines. Slip the lines out of the clips and there is enough slack to drop the package without disconnecting the lines. The plastic ducts in front of the oil coolers can be bent and slithered out, the intermediate oil line stays in the duct. I found it easier to do on jackstands and let the duct lay on the floor. Plug or cap off anything you open.
David Teitelbaum
 

·
Car Adicted
Joined
·
172 Posts
I think you are right about it being easier to do on jack stands, The ramps for the lift get in the way of being able to bend the oil cooler ducts and remove the front oil line out of the ducts and also out of the radiator support. I really don't want to notch them etc .Is the AC condenser attached at the upper end to the Radiator? I might lower the car and jack up the front so as to make it easier to get the ducts out etc, If I get the radiator out and it was a hose leak that fooled me.................I think I am OK on that front. Appreciate the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,206 Posts
The A/C is actually 2 coils, a left one and a right one. They are held in by bolts in the sides of the duct and in the center by a bracket witih screws.. The bracket is held onto the radiator with a screw at the center, bottom and a pop rivet at the top.Leave the center oil line (the line between the 2 oil coolers) in the duct, just remove the little ducts on each side that are in front of the oil coolers.
David Teitelbaum
 

·
Car Adicted
Joined
·
172 Posts
David,

Just got the Radiator out. My A/C wasn't working, which is another issue, so I wasn't worried about disconnecting lines in front of the Radiator. I had one more wire clip on the drivers side for the fans that was attached and once that was dealt with I did get the Radiator out with A/C Condenser attached. On the ground I undid the upper bolt as I already did the lower bolt and removed the Condenser. Here is the pictures of it after 37,000 miles and I know never touched. The previous owner was on hard times and it was outside for awhile and when he stored it he had it at a storage facility.......on the parking lot with a blue tarp over it. I knew I needed to save it and love it. I immediately put it in a covered storage unit........until I could break the news to my wife.

Now I need to figure out how to get the Radiator out of the frame assembly. Haven't looked at it yet, but will be doing so now so I can get it to a repair shop while they are still around!!!!
20200214_102813.jpg
20200214_102801.jpg
20200214_102809.jpg
 

·
Car Adicted
Joined
·
172 Posts
I think I know the answer, but will anyway. I did look first at the parts manual first, which really didn't help. Do you need to drill out the rivets in the top of the frame bracket that holds the Radiator to get it out of the Frame.???? Let me know before I destroy the frame!!!!! Thanks Mark Seifert
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,206 Posts
To get the rad out of the frame you do drill the rivets out. Make notes of each piece and how it is assembled, they are not all the same or symetrical. To reasemble you can use screws and nuts or rivets if you can get this size AND the rivet puller! If you are just going to flush and test the rad you don't have to take the frame off. If you do remove the frame, paint it. If you paint the rad, just paint the tanks. Replace the foam seals. Cap any open connections for the A/C. If it is 'dead" figure on replacing the dryer when you try to get it going.
David Teitelbaum
 

·
Car Adicted
Joined
·
172 Posts
I did drill out the rivets and took it apart. Lots of pictures etc. I will probably rivet it back together. I was going to paint it. It looks like a semi gloss or a flat black. I haven't looked closely at it. Just put Radiator in trunk and getting ready now that I am cleaned up to take it to a repair place in Baltimore that got good write ups. What should I expect cost-wise??

Thanks David and others for the input.
 

·
Car Adicted
Joined
·
172 Posts
Small world turns out the 6 degrees of Kevin Bacon......sure as **** I knew the Radiator guys Uncle who did a few Radiators for me. Radiator Bill was his name. Good guy, so they will look at it Monday pressure test etc. I did talk with him about making it a 3 row versus a 2 row. The only real issue I see is with the bracket that holds the AC condensers to the front of the radiators. A 3 row would be thicker and make it an issue with the bracket without modifications . Anyone go from a 2 core original to a 3 core original radiator? Thanks Mark Seifert
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
499 Posts
Great info Mark - I have seen it mentioned several times where folks change to a three row. Let us know ball park pricing when you get there if you dont mind. This is on my short list.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
453 Posts
Does anyone know if the V8's have a three row rad? My understanding is they are the same size as the 4 cyl overall, but are they still 2 row or three? If they are the same 2 row as the 4's and good old fashioned brass, it may be a waste of time and money since it's my understanding that most of the cooling happens in the front edge of the rad anyway. For example, I can't believe how thin my big old Audi A8's radiator is.
 

·
Car Adicted
Joined
·
172 Posts
Does anyone know if the V8's have a three row rad? My understanding is they are the same size as the 4 cyl overall, but are they still 2 row or three? If they are the same 2 row as the 4's and good old fashioned brass, it may be a waste of time and money since it's my understanding that most of the cooling happens in the front edge of the rad anyway. For example, I can't believe how thin my big old Audi A8's radiator is.
I have a 98 V8 and when I pulled out the original radiator just a few days ago, it was a 2 row Radiator. It was 1 1/8 inches thick. There is room for a 3 core unit although it is 2 inches thick . It shouldn't be an issue though. Mine had several leaks at a seam and other spots. He said he could have welded it, but that he recommended re coring the Radiator. I went with a 3 row update. The total cost is $567 US dollars plus tax. I will be happy to get it back.......I think!
Mark Seifert
 

·
Car Adicted
Joined
·
172 Posts
So, he will use the existing side tanks and I believe the record middle is brass, but I don't know? He did not speak highly of all aluminum radiators. He said they fail usually because they don't flex and end up cracking. I will take pictures later this week once it is done.
 
21 - 40 of 40 Posts
Top