WTB Elise Crash Structure
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Joined
·
12,374 Posts
According to Lotus, the crash structure is not "fixable" - it cannot be repaired and still function as designed. Additionally, because of the way it is bonded to the chassis, a crash structure cannot be removed from a car without damaging it (i.e. destroying it). You really need to just purchase a new one from a dealer. :shrug:
Joined
·
725 Posts
I want to dispel this myth - the crash structure CAN be removed, but it is not easy, and requires specialized tools. Still, it is easily damaged and hence destroyed. Usually not something you want to practice on.
I agree that if the composite is at all damaged, it should certainly not be reused.
That said, get it from the dealer (AErepair is one).
Joined
·
12,374 Posts
I still believe that it can't be removed. The crash structure is bonded tot he front of the chassis - it is recessed into a depression that would prevent you from getting tools between the structure and the chassis. You have to cut away the structure, to get to the base, and then grind/peel away the remaining structure to get to the bare chassis in order to apply a new one.
From the Factory Service Manual (I bolded the appropriate part):
To remove the crash structure:
- Remove the front clamshell (see sub-section BR.5).
- Remove the front undershield by releasing the three screws securing each lower side of the structure to the shield, and the three screws securing the shield to the front lower edge of the chassis.
- Drain the coolant and remove the radiator and pipework (see section KH).
- Remove the driving lamps (if fitted) from the crash structure, along with the towing strut, horn, alarm siren and wiring harness.
- Use a seal cutting knife to cut the bond between the structure and the front face of the chassis. For access to some of the bonding areas, it may be necessary to cut away some parts of the structure, rendering the unit unsuitable for refitment. Take care not to damage the surface of the chassis when cutting the adhesive.
It is not necessary to remove all traces of old adhesive from the chassis, but a uniform surface must be available for the new adhesive bead. The remaining adhesive must be securely bonded and be cut with a scalpal blade to leave an even thickness of 1 - 2 mm.
Prepare the new structure for bonding:
- Dry fit the new structure to the chassis, and check that a good fit is achieved. Fettle the structure or remove old adhesive as necessary until the fit is satisfactory.
- Re-activate the surface of the old adhesive on the chassis using Betawipe 4000 (see sub-section BQ.5), and clean and prime the bonding area on the new crash structure using Betaclean 3900 and Betaprime 5404 (see sub-section BQ.5).
- Remove the front clamshell (see sub-section BR.5).
- Remove the front undershield by releasing the three screws securing each lower side of the structure to the shield, and the three screws securing the shield to the front lower edge of the chassis.
- Drain the coolant and remove the radiator and pipework (see section KH).
- Remove the driving lamps (if fitted) from the crash structure, along with the towing strut, horn, alarm siren and wiring harness.
- Use a seal cutting knife to cut the bond between the structure and the front face of the chassis. For access to some of the bonding areas, it may be necessary to cut away some parts of the structure, rendering the unit unsuitable for refitment. Take care not to damage the surface of the chassis when cutting the adhesive.
It is not necessary to remove all traces of old adhesive from the chassis, but a uniform surface must be available for the new adhesive bead. The remaining adhesive must be securely bonded and be cut with a scalpal blade to leave an even thickness of 1 - 2 mm.
Prepare the new structure for bonding:
- Dry fit the new structure to the chassis, and check that a good fit is achieved. Fettle the structure or remove old adhesive as necessary until the fit is satisfactory.
- Re-activate the surface of the old adhesive on the chassis using Betawipe 4000 (see sub-section BQ.5), and clean and prime the bonding area on the new crash structure using Betaclean 3900 and Betaprime 5404 (see sub-section BQ.5).
I know that people that have replaced the crash structure have said that it totally destroys whats left of it while cutting it off the chassis...
But of course, I haven't actually had to remove or replace one so... :shrug:
Joined
·
725 Posts
Tim, I didn't say it was easy nor reasonable... but I maintain that removing the structure can be done. I'll follow up with pictures in about a week for the nonbelievers.
I agree that you can't very easily remove a crash structure and successfully remount it on the same chassis...
...that's because the key step is cutting the front chassis extrusion apart to safely remove the crash structure. Rare that one would do this, but there are cases of useable crash structures on elises that only have side/rear damage, and have been salvaged permanently due to frame yielding.
I absolutely destroyed my original crash structure when removing it, and agree there is no easy way to remove it. If you went to the trouble of removing the aluminum coolant lines that run through the frame rails, however - it is possible, although unlikely. You would have to employ long, hot knives (which work pretty well, actually!) and/or the windscreen wire method.
I agree that you can't very easily remove a crash structure and successfully remount it on the same chassis...
...that's because the key step is cutting the front chassis extrusion apart to safely remove the crash structure. Rare that one would do this, but there are cases of useable crash structures on elises that only have side/rear damage, and have been salvaged permanently due to frame yielding.
I absolutely destroyed my original crash structure when removing it, and agree there is no easy way to remove it. If you went to the trouble of removing the aluminum coolant lines that run through the frame rails, however - it is possible, although unlikely. You would have to employ long, hot knives (which work pretty well, actually!) and/or the windscreen wire method.
Joined
·
5,461 Posts
Interesting thought and - I was thinking along similar lines when you first mentioned it... but how long would it take and would it be worth it (considering both the cost of the wreck and then time to dismantle)?:shrug:
How is your rebuild going btw
Joined
·
1,116 Posts
Tim not say you are wrong, but.... I removed and sold mine from my Elise, perfect without a scratch, just a pain in the a..
this was on my perfect chassis, both still perfect.
this was on my perfect chassis, both still perfect.
Joined
·
725 Posts
pretty well, thanks... still in the "collecting parts" phase.How is your rebuild going btw
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Join the discussion
