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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #481 · (Edited)
Changing to the electric high volume/hi pressure pump lowers charge cooler temperature. Avoid Bosch xxx 002 weak pump. On this diagram, Bosch 392022010 is the first acceptable pump' A all below this curve are junk.
Chargecooler resistance dotted line determines where your pump would like to work.

Be sure to double insulate at least the bottom and side of the exchanger with layer of Thermo-Tec insulation and Nimbus GII hard shield, sold by Merlin Motorsports or DemonTweeks.
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #482 · (Edited)
All who have a large 3" OD exhaust with 6" dia round Langford resonator, don't have to "improve" anything!
I have inserted an endoscope to inspect the guts of the system and discovered that the resonator (not muffler!), is a 3" trough-and- trough part with perforated inner tube, no baffles. It looks very similar as an inside of the Magnaflow resonator. I don't know if it is a fiberglass or steel wool media.
Nothing to improve here, except saving weight, perhaps. Magnaflow 14" resonator weight 8 lbs.

All later 90+ MY had an oval muffler = 33 lbs boat anchor.


FYI: how to overcome the drone
Here are links to the best threads I found:
I did it. Eliminated the 2000 rpm exhaust drone

and
https://www.rodauthority.com/tech-s...ffler-design-and-sound-absorption-strategies/

How to build an exhaust resonator tube to eliminate drone - PerformanceTrucks.net Forums
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #483 · (Edited)
Rear Hub Bearings, Esprit w/inboard brakes

Reference: post #139 of this thread.

FAG545495AD Wheel Bearings are made in Slovakia.
It x-ref to SKF 99905303500 (blue seal) made in Germany = better metallurgy and reliability
 

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I found out that no matter what the outside of the blanket is made of, the inner side burns out fast if it has only stainless mesh and bare fiberglass.

I found a much better Lava Titanium blanket (olive green inside and outside), which has a silica fiber on the inside.
So far-so good, it keeps the compartment temperatures reasonably moderate.

Search on eBay for: 1320 T3 Titanium Turbo Blanket Heat Shield Barrier Turbocharger Cover Lava
So I guess this $19 version is the one that burned out really quickly?


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-...27740306?epid=25014422482&hash=item2ab5253292
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #487 · (Edited)
Why The Comp Turbo R-Line compressor wheels outperforms

Just FYI:

They certainly have a great products!
I heard, that the customer service is slow, but their innovative technology is worth the wait.

12/11/2018 Comp Turbo Technology is proud to announce the availability of the new CT-R line of compressor wheels. The new R line has proven increases in hp output by up to 15% . The R line compressor is 7-14 vaned and features a thin slim hub to maximize airflow and extended tip technology for increased efficiency at higher pressure ratios. The R line compressor technology was designed with larger exducer diameters which will increase hp output at higher engine speeds. The complete R line compressor technology is now available on our complete line of CT turbochargers. Please visit us at compturbo.com and or contact us at [email protected] for further information regarding the new R line.

https://www.compturbotechnology.com/turbocharger-line


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Integrator
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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #489 · (Edited)

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Dreaded Prior Owner
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Having that color blindness thing again? British Racing Green :UK:

Also I would not call it a "rocket", (or race it against my Subaru). I went with the EFR turbo as it looked to be the best option for responsiveness, and I wanted to convert to an internal wastegate to add lightness and simplicity. I'm not willing to bet my transaxle against rocket-like levels of boost.

Gimme a Audi or Boxster transaxle and the laptop could probably throw on another 75 hp....
 

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Discussion Starter · #491 ·
OOOPS! I stand corrected, the Green Bollide, that is!

Have you made any improvements to your tranny? At least Quaife and/or my reverse cut CWP, (LOL), distributed by Harry?
 

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Have you made any improvements to your tranny? At least Quaife and/or my reverse cut CWP said:
I put in the Quaiffe with new carrier bearings, added a magnet to the drain plug, replaced the circlip, added the big crank pilot bearing, rebushed the linkage, and gave you a Paypal deposit on your CWP project!

Bollide is a bit too close to the truth, as the last head gasket failure gave a hot fart that ignited some roadside grass! My wife therefore prefers Dragon.
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #494 · (Edited)

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Discussion Starter · #495 · (Edited)
When replacing any component of the clutch actuation circuit, the system has to be bled.
Very effective and time saving method is to install a Speed Bleeder (post #23), http://www.speedbleeder.com/, and bleed the slave cylinder "back side up". It is a "one man operation".
If 0.70" dia MC is replaced with 5/8" dia cylinder, then the push rod has to be made longer at the pedal clevis.

BEWARE: DO NOT use 5/8" dia MC without checking specs carefully.

Some 5/8"-ers do not have enough stroke to fully disengage the clutch (working w/standard OE 7/8" SC). They have only 1.25" stroke and 0.39" volume.

0.70" dia Wilwood PN# 260-6579 has a proper 1.4" stroke and 0.53" volume!

Drove the car this week end and can confirm that this MC works fabulously.
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #496 ·
When you have your crank out for any reason, get this simple, but effective modification implemented.
Esprit 4 cyl engines are plagued by low pressure at the con-rod big end shells. In extreme cases #1 and/or #4 bearings fail.
Grinding a simple tear drop-shape chamfer at the main bearing groove oiling hole increases amount of oil "scooped up" into the crank cross-drilled channel.
1255670
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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #497 ·
Switching the return tank looks like the most significant measure with fuller tanks, although you're always going to have the engine between the fuel tanks effect over time.
I wonder what the churning effects of oversize and dual fuel pumps has on temp rise. Perhaps a electrically controlled pump similar to the returnless systems that could be sized for peak HP, but run at lower flows for cruising loads with less energy going into forcing excess fuel through the regulator and hot piping?
Good News, Fuel Lab run with your idea!
How FUELAB’s 529xx Series Electronic Fuel Pressure Regulators Work


529xx Series electronic regulators are designed to be compatible only with externally mounted FUELAB Prodigy Electronic Fuel Pumps, and internally installed FUELAB Power Modules. Just like standard Bypass Style regulators, 529xx Series electronic regulators control fuel flow and pressure with a mechanical regulator and diaphragm assembly that relieves fuel pressure by sending excess flow back to the fuel tank once the set pressure is achieved. However, the FUELAB electronic regulator takes this action one step further by placing a restriction valve along the return line to build return line back pressure. The electronic component of 529xx Series electronic regulators is the pressure transducer that is positioned to monitor the fuel return line back pressure, and use this information to control the Prodigy Fuel Pump. If the pressure being read is too high, it signals the pump to slow down. If the pressure is too low, it signals the pump to speed up. Speed control allows the pump to operate at reduced speed during low fuel demand conditions, helping to keep fuel cooler, which helps to avoid vapor lock and cavitation damage. It also allows the return line flow rate to be relatively constant, which has the effect of negating the regulator’s inherent mechanical regulation slope (this value is the amount of fuel pressure change per amount of flow rate difference through the regulator), thereby helping keep fuel pressure more stable. A video demonstrating the speed control function can be seen at
. Of note, this system is unique to FUELAB; FUELAB Electronic Fuel Pressure Regulators, and the operation of the speed control system are patented.

For more details see https://fuelab.com/how-fuelabs-electronic-regulator-works/
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #498 ·
90 DEGREE OIL ADAPTER - ADDENDUM

Inspection of the adapter base area revealed some "sweating", nothing big, but enough to see it.
I think, the OEM O-ring is too thin and after a while takes a set. Thicker O-rings are available from McMaster Carr.
NEVER use silicone with oil applications. Viton or Buna are good
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #499 ·
Re: #498 post. 90 DEGREE OIL FILTER ADAPTER
1266664
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1266666

Here are pictures of the "regular"
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Ford OEM O-ring (black) and 6mm green Viton ring for comparison. OE ring protrudes only slightly and eventually takes a set causing leaks. In order to be able to use 6mm ring, groove in the adapter needs to be widened. Buy O-ring first and than, remove material on the inside, chamfer the sharp edges of the groove. I used a "61mm" o-ring from eBay.
 

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Integrator
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Discussion Starter · #500 · (Edited)
R-152a "Dust Off" as refrigerant
From: Bill Galbraith


A couple weeks ago… or was it 5-7 years ago… I mentioned using R-152a as a replacement for R-12 in the air conditioning system. I haven’t done the Esprit yet, but it’s next. I’ve done my 1975 Pontiac Grand Ville convertible (originally R-12). Look up “Dust Off” on Amazon. Available is 10 oz and 12 oz cans.

Also, search for “side tap refrigerant”, as you’ll need one of those that handles 2.625” can. If you don’t use it all, the can tap allows you to remove the hose and retain the product in the can. I also have a small scale, so that I can watch the refrigerant going in. On one car, I only needed ½ a can. Next time, I’ll place the can in a plastic bin so that it stays upright better.

I have gotten EXCELLENT results on both of those cars. The price of R-134a is down to a reasonable number, like $10 a can for 12 oz, but R-152a aka “Dust Off” is about $5 a can. You need about 56% of the R-12 amount, so 27 oz. for an Esprit. Pressures are comparable to R-12, much lower than R-134a. I saw about 35 deg split tonight on my Mustang.
 
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