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Discussion Starter #1
Over the past month, I've started experiencing intermittent pedal drops that are becoming more frequent. The pedal now also engages/resists at a slightly lower point than before. I took it into the shop and they confirmed it was likely a master cylinder issue. At a service quote of $1700 - $2200 to replace, I figure I'd do it myself. Since I have a 2010 with a metal cylinder, should I buy another factory metal cylinder or the Wilwood kit? It looks like BOE has a kit as well for the same price as the Wilwood but has anyone here installed it? Would it make more sense to see if bleeding the entire system works first?
 

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should replace the fluid with high temp fluid. And since you are in the AZ, you might want to replace/flush the fluid every 2 years. Make sure the clutch line is heat wrap. I heard a lot of the early Evora didn't have the clutch wrap adequately.
 

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Over the past month, I've started experiencing intermittent pedal drops that are becoming more frequent. The pedal now also engages/resists at a slightly lower point than before. I took it into the shop and they confirmed it was likely a master cylinder issue. At a service quote of $1700 - $2200 to replace, I figure I'd do it myself. Since I have a 2010 with a metal cylinder, should I buy another factory metal cylinder or the Wilwood kit? It looks like BOE has a kit as well for the same price as the Wilwood but has anyone here installed it? Would it make more sense to see if bleeding the entire system works first?
You can start by flushing the fluid and put some high-temp in there, but it probably won't resolve it for long.

The GRP kit (Wilwood) didn't originally come with an adapter plate that was designed for the metal m/cs, but with a bit of modification, it still works. @Chaos was offering to work with someone with a metal m/c to make adapter plates, but he's gone radio-silent.

I'm sure a number of people have used the BOE (Tilton) m/c and are satisfied. AFAIK, both units can be rebuilt from the pedal-side, which negates having to go through to same install effort when the time comes.

I would strongly advise against getting the OEM m/c, unless you're a glutton for punishment, and want to run into the same issue later down the road. Not saying they're all bad, but why tempt fate with a part that is known to frequent failure?

And there's another thread here where it's been mentioned a few times that the m/c can be swapped without removing the front clam. I'm not quite sure how that's possible, having taken the front clam off to do the m/c replacement and seeing the lack of room in there, but where there's a will, I'm sure there's a way.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the input, as for the brake fluid, it was topped off by myself when I bought the car a year and approx. 8,000 miles ago. It wasn't adequately filled coming off the dealer lot and I'm not sure if the existing fluid is rated for high temperatures, nor do I believe the clutch line is heat wrapped. It is black indicating exposure to high heat so it is due a flush and bleed. My rationale for considering the OEM cylinder is that according to some posts here, the original metal cylinder rarely experiences failure?
 

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And there's another thread here where it's been mentioned a few times that the m/c can be swapped without removing the front clam. I'm not quite sure how that's possible, having taken the front clam off to do the m/c replacement and seeing the lack of room in there, but where there's a will, I'm sure there's a way.
We would love to see how this is done. Please create a DIY in the Evora "How-to" sub-forum if anyone peruse this.
 

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the original metal cylinder rarely experiences failure?
I wouldn't say that's accurate. There were fewer of the cars made with metal m/cs, as they stopped using them in MY12. Lotus replaced a number of them under warranty in the early cars as they could potentially cause clutch issues. But I know at least a handful of us here that have had them go out.

If you're going to put in the effort to replace the m/c, it makes sense to not replace it with a part that's had a pretty iffy backstory. Go with known-good brands and parts, like Wilwood and Tilton, who have been around for a long time, and make quality hydraulics. The cost of the OEM m/c would set you back around $200 and likely a few weeks to a few months of waiting to receive the part. The aftermarkets cost a little bit more, but are readily available and won't leave you worried about a mushy or falling pedal.
 

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Over the past month, I've started experiencing intermittent pedal drops that are becoming more frequent. The pedal now also engages/resists at a slightly lower point than before. I took it into the shop and they confirmed it was likely a master cylinder issue. At a service quote of $1700 - $2200 to replace, I figure I'd do it myself. Since I have a 2010 with a metal cylinder, should I buy another factory metal cylinder or the Wilwood kit? It looks like BOE has a kit as well for the same price as the Wilwood but has anyone here installed it? Would it make more sense to see if bleeding the entire system works first?
Dude contact Cory at vault... He just did mine (AZ) hes the orginal tech at Penske and does it without having to take a off the clam so its not nearly that price. If you need his info let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dude contact Cory at vault... He just did mine (AZ) hes the orginal tech at Penske and does it without having to take a off the clam so its not nearly that price. If you need his info let me know.
He's my go-to guy. I've spoken to his team about it and eventually opted to do the replacing myself. For $2200 at the Vault, I'd rather buy the part myself and have a few dollars left for some brews afterwards ;). But to your point, I should speak with him for pointers on doing it with the clam on.
 

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I wouldn't say that's accurate. There were fewer of the cars made with metal m/cs, as they stopped using them in MY12.
It's been awhile since I looked at the numbers but IIRC MY10-11 are the vast majority of Evoras built, so if the metal MC was used through MY11 most cars would have those.

OP, using a good fluid and a proper heat shield goes a long way, there are lots of threads and discussions. Much easier and cheaper than pulling the clam, and you'd need the fluid and heat shield with a new MC anyway. The Lotus heat shield "fix" is insufficient.
 

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It's been awhile since I looked at the numbers but IIRC MY10-11 are the vast majority of Evoras built, so if the metal MC was used through MY11 most cars would have those.
646 total from MY10-MY11, including the late-model 11S'es from my CoP letter. I think there's a total of around 2000-2500 S1 Evoras of all years in the US? I think some of the late MY11s have the plastic mc that Lotus switched to for MY12+ as well.

Either way, heat wrapping the line is good, using high-temp fluid is good, and eventually, when all the original m/cs die, going the aftermarket route isn't a bad choice for longevity and peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Tackled the clutch cylinder replacement this weekend. It was definitely an exercise in patience. I first attempted the replacement without removing the clam but it was too tight. It looks definitely possible; I just wasn't confident enough to do so. Below are some pictures from the wheel well for those wondering how accessible it is from the side. It is the furthermost horizontal metal cylinder in the back. As a heads-up for those using a Tiltron cylinder replacement, the spacer that goes into the clutch pedal hole is too big and will not fit an early model Evora. I can't speak to the post-2010 Evora's but I had to install without.
 

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As a heads-up for those using a Tiltron cylinder replacement, the spacer that goes into the clutch pedal hole is too big and will not fit an early model Evora. I can't speak to the post-2010 Evora's but I had to install without.
This was sort of the same issue with the GRP/Wilwood spacer. It left a bit of the m/c sticking thru, which is supposed to seat itself inside the "firewall" hole, which is unfortunately smaller on the earlier cars. I just enlarged the hole with a die grinder and grinding bit. My feedback to @Chaos and GRP (and maybe Tilton/BOE) would be to make the spacers a bit thicker, so that there's no need to enlarge the hole. It would require slightly longer bolts and maybe a small adjustment to the push rod length.

Glad to hear you got it all sorted. And thanks for the wheel well pics. I can see now how it's sort of possible to do this without taking the clam off, but there really isn't a lot of room to even get your hands in there. Spending the ~hour or so to pull the clam doesn't seem like that big of an effort considering the alternative.
 

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Good to hear you got it sorted as well. The quoted price of $2200 is pretty high. My metal one failed last year and it was replaced under warranty. They had the car in and out in less than a day w/o taking the clam off. The bill (though warranty covered it) was only $800 so that quote seems quite exuberant. So not too expensive...all things considered with this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Good to hear you got it sorted as well. The quoted price of $2200 is pretty high. My metal one failed last year and it was replaced under warranty. They had the car in and out in less than a day w/o taking the clam off. The bill (though warranty covered it) was only $800 so that quote seems quite exuberant. So not too expensive...all things considered with this car.
Had I been quoted $800 for the whole job, I'd pay it in a heartbeat, especially now after all the swearing and frustration it took to install the cylinder and realign the clam haha. Next step for me is to locate the slave cylinder in the back and do a full bleed. On the initial drive after the MC install and MC bleed, I noticed the car had a delay in dropping revs when the clutch pedal was pressed. I'm guessing slippage? If the bleed doesn't fix it, I'll have no choice but to take her to the shop.
 

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Lotus Labor Standard Hours are 4 hrs to replace Master Cylinder; Slave is 0.8 hrs. Delay in clutch engagement is from the damper system, air in the system would not slow the engagement.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Lotus Labor Standard Hours are 4 hrs to replace Master Cylinder; Slave is 0.8 hrs. Delay in clutch engagement is from the damper system, air in the system would not slow the engagement.
Yikes at $150/hour for labor and $400 for the part, I'm not sure why the local shops were so off in their estimates. Any advice on how to pinpoint the cause of the rev delay? She's going to a shop next week but given my time off for July 4, I'm eager to resolve the issue myself!
 

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