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Discussion Starter #21
FWIW- Our tilton setup does not require grinding and the master does not protrude to or through the firewall... It's a real easy and clean install.

As for clam off, it's so easy to install with the clam off, and the clam is not hard to take off, you might just consider taking it off... to each their own...

https://www.boefab.com/collections/drivetrain/products/evora-clutch-master-cylinder-by-boe

Cheers,

Phil
For avoidance of doubt, below is the spacer I was referring to. The image is taken from the BOE instructions manual. I found at least on my car that the diameter was too large to fit into the clutch hole so I attached the clutch fork without the spacer. Aside from that, I'm happy with the Tiltron cylinder, which is noticeably better in quality than the OEM.
 

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Had I been quoted $800 for the whole job, I'd pay it in a heartbeat, especially now after all the swearing and frustration it took to install the cylinder and realign the clam haha. Next step for me is to locate the slave cylinder in the back and do a full bleed. On the initial drive after the MC install and MC bleed, I noticed the car had a delay in dropping revs when the clutch pedal was pressed. I'm guessing slippage? If the bleed doesn't fix it, I'll have no choice but to take her to the shop.

Though the aftermarket options stated here are indeed a better option than the stock units but one can't argue with free.....

Here is my repair bill for reference. This work was done by my local Lotus/certified dealer.
 

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For avoidance of doubt, below is the spacer I was referring to. The image is taken from the BOE instructions manual. I found at least on my car that the diameter was too large to fit into the clutch hole so I attached the clutch fork without the spacer. Aside from that, I'm happy with the Tiltron cylinder, which is noticeably better in quality than the OEM.
I did the tilton install myself not long ago.

I thought that it was the wrong size too, but I took a small hammer/flathead and knocked out the OEM spacer that was in there and the BOE one then popped in like it was supposed to. Don't get me wrong, there was not much room to work with and a few choice 4-letter words to help me overcome some of the barriers.

I felt the clam removal was easy, but the reinstall - not so much. The headlight alignment sucked and the spacer/alignment of the clam itself was a little infuriating but all went smooth and the tilton MC replacement works amazing. That coupled with my heat wrap on the clutch line and high-temp fluid hopefully this issue in a distant memory.
 

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Will definitely attempt this thru Left fender, even disconnect left edge of clam for a bit more space, but anything to avoid those damn headlights!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Will definitely attempt this thru Left fender, even disconnect left edge of clam for a bit more space, but anything to avoid those damn headlights!!!
Good luck! Take pictures if you can - I'm very curious how it can be done without removing the clam, which is a pain
 

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Oredered and needs to happen soon. Mine is on the way out. Today will be its last drive till repaired. Pedal was on floor this AM
 

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I've kept a BOE Tilton unit on my on my shelf as a preventative measure. Still have t needed it, but with some other clam off work being done i'm switching over.
 

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Absolutely. This is my second one. Have the GRP one on order. Spring work will be motor mounts...done
MC, Sway bushings and VSA shifter fittings as mine have to be getting worn and its easy to do. By fall I'm going to do the Hethelsport Tier?1,2 Ohlins conversion.. After 6+ seasons, not too much to ask.
 

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Well, left side all opened up. Clam provides plenty of space. Its the damn tray (black that I need to get to release then things will be easy . Nice, hot, humid day to sweat this one out!! Will take pics. Just prepped last night. Today it comes out. If anyone had a sequence that worked for them, I'd love to know. There is always a don't do that first bolt!
 
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I don't recall a specific order when I swapped mine, but do make sure when you pull the OE one out, measure the push rod distance from base to the center of the clevis pin, and replicate that on the new unit before you install it. It should help prevent any t/c lights or CELs from the clutch position sensor being out of spec.

Oh, and as I mentioned in a different thread, it makes it much less painful if you remove the driver's seat.
 

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But it takes all the fun out with no seat..... see my other thread on this.
 
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