It’s not hard to run wires at all. Just do it right the first time and it’ll be done and over with.

 

Yea, better to go for a more solid solution, than a cheap product with low review count.

But on the topic of wireless cameras, I'd always been curious about the wireless license plate cameras that transmit to a phone. The problem could very well be poor performance of these wireless solutions. When trying to do research, find one called PearlVision that went out of business, and another called FenSens that seemingly isn't selling cameras.
Edit: think the last one turned into a company called Type S, consensus seems to always point to poor wireless performance

 

I installed a camera that's wifi to a phone app. The phone app is "SightWifi". I wired it to a switched set of led's I put in the trunk. I have three problems with this set up. 1) it's slow to boot up the wifi 2) I have to go into my iphone and select their specific wifi SSID 3) the app is buggy. It also seems to want me to get the wifi connected and THEN start the app. The image quality is adequate but because it takes time to do this, I just don't use it very often. I'm looking into a single DIN that will support wireless (or wired...don't mind running wires).

 

Wired vs wireless cams will always be better quality at this point in offerings. Most Lotus owners opt for smaller rear view mirrors so less forward vision is blocked.

 

Might be worth investigating whether any previous owners have already routed wiring to the trunk? I lucked out and my car had an amp in the trunk that I wanted to remove, so I was able to reuse one of the RCA cables to get my backup camera signal to the cabin.

 

10 years ago, I wired in an option. The routing is pretty straight forward.

• Wires into the trunk through the same hole as the wires for the license plate lights
• power - T-tap the reverse light power.
• trunk > engine bay = hole behind the battery.
• engine bay > interior = existing grommet behind the driver seat (below the air box)
• then dealers choice of tucking it in a side sill or center console, and into the dash.

As for your mirror. I'd not go that route, as it take a lot of real-estate. Why not kill two birds with one stone and change your head unit to one with a screen and better sound output?

 

btw - I pulled that camera a few years ago. been debating doing it again, but you really get used to the tiny size of the car.. not hard to park it these days.

then again, I haven't parallel parked it in YEARS

 

I think that Mirror dash cam would work great on its own, and properly run with wires, its actually not that bad to run the wires.

I'd caution you on doing your research for getting the best kind for that and placement of it if you're really going to replace your mirror with a camera. make sure camera view usable and not too low, especially at night.

 

There is a visual at the end of this thread that points out the pathway…
Engine bay to cockpit

 

Or, get an AIM MX2E, and then you can wire up your rear camera to your gauge cluster.

 

Will it accept any? Or you need to buy the specific AIM camera? (I already have the dash in).

 

The connector on the AIM is the 712 Binder, I ordered the AIM cluster with camera and its all the same connector. Came with Cluster, extension (6m), camera with short lead.

the camera and extension is like a $250-300 option, I'd suggest getting the adapter and supplying your own camera. only positive about the binder connection is that it supports power and video in the one connection.

 

I was considering running those transmitters on my car. I like the idea of disconnecting less stuff when the rear clam has to be removed. The rear camera would tap into the rear reverse light and the front would tap into the key-in fuse. The only issue is that the transmitters need good airflow if they are to be left powered on a long time. The issue then becomes finding a wire that is in the front half of the car (I believe that there is one by the transmission tunnel).

EDIT:
After more research, it looks like the transmitter is what gets notably hot. I think the receiver might be able to be run as always on. I'll take the plunge. The transmitter can be wired to the reverse lights and the receiver can tap the key in or the fuse in my headunit.

 

I created a thread about my transmitter install if someone needs.