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Jacking up the Evora GT - conflicting data!

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2.1K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  YVR_evoraGT  
#1 ·
We've all heard, and in some cases seen the photos, of Eliges that tipped backwards off a lift because the rearmost jackpoints weren't used. I want to avoid such an event when lifting the Evora GT.

I've jacked one side of the Evora GT in the past using the jackpoint just in front of the rear wheel and, like the Elige platform, doing so raises both wheels on that side (praise be to the Lotus chassis stiffness!). On the Elige there are two far-rearward jackpoints that keep the center of mass between them and the frontmost jackpoints, so the car won't tip off the jacks. There are no such far-rear jackpoints on the Evora. The docs only speak of, and illustrate, a total of four Evora jackpoints and the rearmost of those are still in front of the rear wheels.

How do we keep the center of mass between the front and rear jackpoints? The bulk of the engine mass is behind the Evora's rear jackpoints. If a single jack under the rearmost jackpoint can raise that entire side of the car, what happens when you lift BOTH rear jackpoints? Even if you put jacks under the front jackpoints it seems like the car would be heavily rear biased, with a whole lot of mass behind the rear jacks.

I've read that some recommend lifting from chassis points under the rear diffuser, similar to what we do on an Elige. Others say those points aren't meant for lifting on the Evora and caution against it. I can imagine putting a fifth jack back there as insurance against the car tipping backwards, so that no real weight is borne there but it protects anyone working under the car. That still doesn't answer the question of whether the center of mass is biased dangerously rearward if lifted at the four factory jackpoints.

I guess I'm asking how stable the car really is when lifted at the four factory jackpoints. Does it have a rearward bias like the Elige does if lifted from those same four points? Or is the weight distribution of the Evora different enough that it's not an issue. For example, it may be that there's enough forward mass combined with the distance from the rear jackpoints to the front of the car that the leverage is enough to keep the car balanced and prevent it from tipping backwards.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks!
 
#2 ·
From personal experience the Evora is really stable when placed on 4 jack stands. I'd always give the car a should shake test before getting under it and never has as much as a wiggle.

Getting a jack stand under the rear points is the bit that tricky and has a few different suggestions. If I need to get my Evora on all 4 I use the 2 jack method. 1 jack at the rear point then lift the car up enough to place the second jack with a piece of plywood under the rear tire to lift off the first jack and replace with a jack stand.

Instead of the second jack you could try jacking from where the rear diffuser attaches to the subframe. Or one of the special jack stands that fit around a jack.
 
#3 ·
I can get it up on four floor jacks no problem. The question is whether it is rear-heavy when lifted, like the Elige is. The Elige has two far-rear lift points that prevent that problem but the Evora doesn't have formal, factory-blessed lift points way back like that.

I just ran an experiment where I lifted just the rear points while leaving the front wheels on the ground. I could not budge the front end with muscle power one bit. It didn't feel "tippy" at all. This makes me believe that the length in front of the rear jackpoints, combined with the amount of mass up front, is enough to keep the Evora from tipping backwards.

Next I'm going to set that up again, and add a front floor jack to see how much weight it "feels" when lifting the front end while the rear is already in the air.
 
#4 ·
I can tell you from personal experience that it the S1 Evora doesn't get tippy when on 4 jackstands, even with extra weight in the trunk. I installed the ShiftR111 on mine a few years ago and it was up on 4 jackstands the whole time for that process. I assume the jack points are similar on the newer Evoras also. I couldn't reach far enough into the engine compartment to adjust the cables, so I ended up having to crawl into the trunk itself while it was on jackstands to do so, and it was absolutely stable the whole time. So even with all my weight father behind the jack points and the engine weight behind those jack points, it didn't lift up at all.

Before I get raged at for climbing into the trunk while it was on stands, I had a buddy standing at the front end with his hands on the hood while I slowly added my weight into the trunk, just in case it start tipping. So bottom line is basically, the S1 I can say for sure doesn't get tippy. Your results may vary.

Side note: I have seen lots of folks talk about a 2 jack method to lift the car, and I use a similar method except with a motorcycle jack. My motorcycle jack has two lifting surfaces with a gap between them, so once I've gotten the tire off the ground with a floor jack on the jack point, I can slide the bike jack under the rear tire with the e-brake on so it doesn't spin at all, and then lift with that until the suspension compresses and then lifts the whole car slightly off the floor jack. remove floor jack, then replace with jack stand. Rinse and repeat for the other side. I prefer the bike jack because of more positive engagement with tire surface than just a plank of wood.
 
#6 ·
Thanks everyone! @donour, that's reassuring to know that the center of mass is well in front of the rear jackpoints.

@BoseMensch, that's some story. I would also have had a buddy up front, ready to keep the nose down as I climbed in!

Got the LOF done today. I'll be raising the Evora GT on all four corners when I get new tires soon. No chance I'm going to let some tire shop "jack up" (double entendre fully intended) my car. Did the same with the Elise wheels and tires. Take them in as standalone units and keep the cars safely in MY garage.
 
#7 ·
True the layout of the four factory jack points. Yes the cg of bias towards the rear wheels (about 60:40); however, it is securely fwd of the aft lift points. Do not jack from any of the rear subframe members. Those cross members are designed to support the power unit, not hold the car weight. Even the side beams, while designed to hold suspension loads are not locally reinforced to support jacking point loads, you may cripple the side walls of the box beam.

As to jacking and supporting from the same lift point, I find the "JackStands" product a perfect solution, and while high priced, you only need two along with two regular stands for the front.
 
#8 ·
For lifting all four points, on either car, I use floor jacks and my homebrew safety beams (basically an early version of the commercial JackStand). Works perfectly and I get the advantages of both jacks and stands at all four corners.