To start, I was deciding between this flap upgrade and the Moroso baffled pan. I figured hewing closer to the factory's intended design was the better course, and went with the Jubu flaps.
Before discussing the install, a few quick words on the Jubu metal flaps themselves. These are extremely nice, well-crafted pieces, and are thoughtfully packaged with the correct high-temperature Loctite to ensure you have everything you need. With that said, I did have one issue with one flap being loose in place, even after torquing to the correct spec. I had to improvise to ensure a secure fit (more on that below), but it was slightly unnerving given the job these need to do.
![Image]()
One last thing to note before the install discussion is the condition of the factory rubber flaps as I pulled them out. My car is a '21 GT with 18,500 miles on it, and they were in as-new condition. Even after some aggressive poking, prodding, and yanking to get them out, they were fully intact with no signs of degredation. Here's a picture of them in situ, and then some examples out of the pan (side by side with the Jubu flap for comparison):
![Image]()
![Image]()
Now onto the install:
First of all, removing the oil pan was a pain. The FIPG sealant is extremely strong, and I tried all sorts of wedges, razors, etc that got me nowhere. Finally, a 1" putty knife turned out to be the right implement to get in between the pan and engine block to break the seal. Lightly tapping the putty knife with a rubber mallet got enought FIPG separated so that I could remove the rest of the pan by pulling.
I also thought I could avoid loosening the downpipe, as I was able to access all the bolts holding the pan to the block. However, the oil pickup extends down into the pan through a hole in the baffling, and requires that the downpipe be shifted over so that the pan can be moved to clear the oil pickup.
With the pan out of the car, removing the factory flaps was relatively straightforward. I used a small flathead screwdriver and pushed the top of the flap through the baffle, and then yanked the flap the rest of the way out.
![Image]()
Installing the Jubu metal flaps was slightly finicky. The design includes a hanger that lets you hang the flap off the baffle, after which you screw two bolts on the end of the Jubu flap into the space previously used by the rubber flap. This tightens the metal flap against the baffle wall, and the included Loctite ensures it won't back out. The Jubu flaps use T20 bolts, and the torque value is very low at 3 Nm.
Access to some of the bolt heads is tricky, as your only access point is the hole for the oil pump pickup. Having various extensions handy is useful to ensure you can torque everything properly. Overall, though, it wasn't hard getting them all in place and torqued, and it's really unfortunate that these will be hidden from human eyes for most of their existence, because they look great!
![Image]()
![Image]()
That said, I had one flap that stayed loose even after being torqued. My guess is that the factory machined slot for this flap was slightly wider (probably by less than 1/2 mm) and therefore allowed play for the Jubu flap. In principle, I don't think that the Jubu flap would fall out even with the play, as it is mechanically held in by the combination of the hanger pointing down, and the two bolt threads sticking through. For my own peace of mind, however, I put two nuts with Loctite on the back and cinched everything up. For what it's worth, I think Jubu would have included nuts in their kit if it was practical, but there is really no easy way to get nuts on the backs! I had to carefully manipulate these into place and then get them started. It wasn't easy.
![Image]()
For what it's worth, here's what it looks like without nuts in place, and as you can see, it'd be hard for the flap to dislocate itself with this amount of bolt sticking through:
![Image]()
Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the quality of the kit. The one issue I had was easily overcome with readily available hardware, and now I'll hopefully never have to remove the oil pan ever again, while still retaining proper factory design of the baffles and flaps in the oil pan.
Before discussing the install, a few quick words on the Jubu metal flaps themselves. These are extremely nice, well-crafted pieces, and are thoughtfully packaged with the correct high-temperature Loctite to ensure you have everything you need. With that said, I did have one issue with one flap being loose in place, even after torquing to the correct spec. I had to improvise to ensure a secure fit (more on that below), but it was slightly unnerving given the job these need to do.
One last thing to note before the install discussion is the condition of the factory rubber flaps as I pulled them out. My car is a '21 GT with 18,500 miles on it, and they were in as-new condition. Even after some aggressive poking, prodding, and yanking to get them out, they were fully intact with no signs of degredation. Here's a picture of them in situ, and then some examples out of the pan (side by side with the Jubu flap for comparison):
Now onto the install:
First of all, removing the oil pan was a pain. The FIPG sealant is extremely strong, and I tried all sorts of wedges, razors, etc that got me nowhere. Finally, a 1" putty knife turned out to be the right implement to get in between the pan and engine block to break the seal. Lightly tapping the putty knife with a rubber mallet got enought FIPG separated so that I could remove the rest of the pan by pulling.
I also thought I could avoid loosening the downpipe, as I was able to access all the bolts holding the pan to the block. However, the oil pickup extends down into the pan through a hole in the baffling, and requires that the downpipe be shifted over so that the pan can be moved to clear the oil pickup.
With the pan out of the car, removing the factory flaps was relatively straightforward. I used a small flathead screwdriver and pushed the top of the flap through the baffle, and then yanked the flap the rest of the way out.
Installing the Jubu metal flaps was slightly finicky. The design includes a hanger that lets you hang the flap off the baffle, after which you screw two bolts on the end of the Jubu flap into the space previously used by the rubber flap. This tightens the metal flap against the baffle wall, and the included Loctite ensures it won't back out. The Jubu flaps use T20 bolts, and the torque value is very low at 3 Nm.
Access to some of the bolt heads is tricky, as your only access point is the hole for the oil pump pickup. Having various extensions handy is useful to ensure you can torque everything properly. Overall, though, it wasn't hard getting them all in place and torqued, and it's really unfortunate that these will be hidden from human eyes for most of their existence, because they look great!
That said, I had one flap that stayed loose even after being torqued. My guess is that the factory machined slot for this flap was slightly wider (probably by less than 1/2 mm) and therefore allowed play for the Jubu flap. In principle, I don't think that the Jubu flap would fall out even with the play, as it is mechanically held in by the combination of the hanger pointing down, and the two bolt threads sticking through. For my own peace of mind, however, I put two nuts with Loctite on the back and cinched everything up. For what it's worth, I think Jubu would have included nuts in their kit if it was practical, but there is really no easy way to get nuts on the backs! I had to carefully manipulate these into place and then get them started. It wasn't easy.
For what it's worth, here's what it looks like without nuts in place, and as you can see, it'd be hard for the flap to dislocate itself with this amount of bolt sticking through:
Overall, I'm pretty pleased with the quality of the kit. The one issue I had was easily overcome with readily available hardware, and now I'll hopefully never have to remove the oil pan ever again, while still retaining proper factory design of the baffles and flaps in the oil pan.
