[Kamber]

Anyone running these on an Evora with aftermarket FUCAs and RUCAs that can comment on what they like to be at camber-wise for track use? About to put in BWR FUCAs and Spitfire front track rods today and wondering what ballpark I should shoot for prior to bringing it in for an alignment next week. I have the RRR Engineering RUCAs in already and am sitting at somewhere around the ballpark of -2.8 to -3 in the rear with ample room for another degree of adjustment in either direction.

@jalquiza @Vertigyn @Jedifar @friss

 

[friss]

I believe my fronts are at -2.8 and the wear is pretty good. The AD09's wore well even on my stock camber Evora so going with something in that ballpark and seeing how it works for you and adjust from there.

 

[jalquiza]

Anyone running these on an Evora with aftermarket FUCAs and RUCAs that can comment on what they like to be at camber-wise for track use? About to put in BWR FUCAs and Spitfire front track rods today and wondering what ballpark I should shoot for prior to bringing it in for an alignment next week. I have the RRR Engineering RUCAs in already and am sitting at somewhere around the ballpark of -2.8 to -3 in the rear with ample room for another degree of adjustment in either direction.

@jalquiza @Vertigyn @Jedifar @friss

Yeah, these have worked very well with ~ -2.9 camber for me (I always run a little more in the rear on this car). Also have the Spitfire toe/track rods, nice to get those knocked out while you’re in there.

IMO upper 2s camber is still very street friendly, with the stiff sidewall I get very little rollover. I’ll likely run a little over 3 next time I get it on a rack given that this is mostly for track use.

 

[Kamber]

Yeah, these have worked very well with ~ -2.9 camber for me (I always run a little more in the rear on this car). Also have the Spitfire toe/track rods, nice to get those knocked out while you’re in there.

IMO upper 2s camber is still very street friendly, with the stiff sidewall I get very little rollover. I’ll likely run a little over 3 next time I get it on a rack given that this is mostly for track use.

I believe my fronts are at -2.8 and the wear is pretty good. The AD09's wore well even on my stock camber Evora so going with something in that ballpark and seeing how it works for you and adjust from there.

Thanks fellas!

Some follow-up questions:

• @friss, how much rear camber are you running?
• @jalquiza, how much more camber are you running the rear vs the front?

Trying to figure out what a good starting point would be in terms of divorce between the front and rear — I'll be running the AD09s in 255 F / 295 R on a non-aero equipped car (stock GT exterior, no wing).

 

[jalquiza]

Driving style will have some bearing (plus I also run double adjustables), but usually ~ 0.3 less for the front. Right now I’m at 2.7F 3.0R

 

[TNEngineer]

Driving style will have some bearing (plus I also run double adjustables), but usually ~ 0.3 less for the front. Right now I’m at 2.7F 3.0R

Is that specific to the Evora platform, or also applicable to the Elise? I've got AD09's on the Elise and once I'm done with all the suspension upgrades it's going to need a total alignment. I'm going to start with Shinoo's numbers (-3 degrees camber front and rear) but wondered if your offset recommendation applies to the Elise too.

 

[jalquiza]

Is that specific to the Evora platform, or also applicable to the Elise? I've got AD09's on the Elise and once I'm done with all the suspension upgrades it's going to need a total alignment. I'm going to start with Shinoo's numbers (-3 degrees camber front and rear) but wondered if your offset recommendation applies to the Elise too.

I’m not familiar with setting up those cars, but it’s such a small difference that you may as well start equal if it’s a new setup. Driving feel and really carcass temps + wear will be the most revealing.

I ended up on this because it’s still very easy to get the rear as loose as I need it to be and the wear/temps are good. I ran ~ equal camber and found it was almost too easy to get into oversteer. I backed off the front slightly as to not take away from the contact patch in the rear for corner exits while adding some patch up front for braking.

 

[friss]

I have -2.5 in the rear for mine

 

[Farmer_Ben]

Any thoughts on the AD09s just for summer street tires? The stock Cup 2s weren't bad in the couple times I was caught in rain, but they're getting low and I'm considering PS4S or something a little less aggressive for my summer set up (running Mich Alpins for winter tires). I definitely want something that lasts a little longer than the Cup 2s, but don't want to sacrifice grip if I still want to hit a few HPDE days with them.

I love the PS4S. I have used for HDPE and street on both wet (amazing grip) and dry (also great grip, especially cornering), but would not recommend below 50 degre temps. (they are not as grippy). They def like warmer temps.

 

[jalquiza]

Countering my comment about the AD09 in colder temps on the street, I did just run these at a track day that was 40 degrees during the few sessions I ran.

Not a great day for setting times with the sheer number of cars going off, but I thought it was fun. I felt like I was able to work pretty decent grip into these after about 6 turns. If pushed, they were happy to slide

If you’re comfortable with tire management, I think these should be fine for track use down to ~ 45.

 

[Vertigyn]

Passenger rear started chunking on the inside. 4 days at Sebring. 168 laps. 80 in the rain. 88 dry. 200 miles round trip each day. So approximately 1,000 street miles and 650 track miles.

Fronts - still have some life in them - maybe will just replace the rears:

Rears - less tread depth than the fronts. Plus the chunking tire:

 

[bboixtc]

View attachment 1363659
Passenger rear started chunking on the inside. 4 days at Sebring. 168 laps. 80 in the rain. 88 dry. 200 miles round trip each day. So approximately 1,000 street miles and 650 track miles.

Fronts - still have some life in them - maybe will just replace the rears:

View attachment 1363658
View attachment 1363657


Rears - less tread depth than the fronts. Plus the chunking tire:

View attachment 1363660
View attachment 1363661

I need to seriously log laps, miles and heat cycles in this much depth. I did so poorly on my last 3 sets of tires.

 

[bboixtc]

@Vertigyn btw, did you rotate them at all?

 

[TNEngineer]

They're asymmetrical (designated inside and outside sidewalls), so if he's running standard staggered front/rear sizes it's not possible to rotate them.

 

[bboixtc]

They're asymmetrical (designated inside and outside sidewalls), so if he's running standard staggered front/rear sizes it's not possible to rotate them.

He can swap left and right sides...

 

[TNEngineer]

That will reverse the rotation direction of the tire.

 

[Vertigyn]

I did swap them side to side. Direction doesn’t matter on these tires if I remember correctly. Additionally, in dry track use, direction rarely matters even for directional tires in my opinion.

I use my Garmin paired with one note to track laps.

 

[bboixtc]

That will reverse the rotation direction of the tire.

They're not directional...

 

[TNEngineer]

They're not directional, but once put into service they should not have their rotation direction reversed. True for (most?) all radial tires.

Source: ADVAN NEOVA® AD09, click on "Full Warranty".

 

[friss]

View attachment 1363685

They're not directional, but once put into service they should not have their rotation direction reversed. True for (most?) all radial tires.

Source: ADVAN NEOVA® AD09, click on "Full Warranty".

This reads to me as to why they cut the warranty in half because you can't rotate the tires front to back and even out the wear.

Not that you can't swap them side to side.