A while back I picked up a red oil pan from a local Lotus club member who had installed the Moroso pan.
I wanted to see if I could replace the rubber trap doors in the oil baffles with metal for a permanent, maintenance free solution to better oil control for far less $$$ than the Moroso pan. Today I dug into it.
The patient:
I used a cutoff wheel on the Dremel to cut through the 6 small welds that hold the baffle assembly to the outer pan:
I made five new trap doors from a piece of stainless piano hinge leftover from another project:
Tack welding the pin to the outer ends of the barrel so these can't come apart in use:
Doors welded in place with lots of double checking to ensure they swing freely and don't stick or bind:
Thin metal in tight spaces is tricky to get a pretty bead. If I had it to do again it would be better as I developed my process along the way. Also, I cooked the inner baffle assembly in a (not used for food) toaster oven to burn the oil out of the surfaces of the metal for cleaner welds:
Outer pan cleaned and ready to receive the baffle assembly:
The outer pan didn't fit in the toaster oven and the welding was more difficult. Thankfully there isn't really anything trying to separate the two pieces. The paint on the outside of the pan burned within a second of starting the arc. I resorted to shorter welds and a few more of them vs. the factory approach:
Crispy:
And finished off with a love note to a future caretaker:
I've prepped this piece to go on during my header install, along with the oil cooler line update, and another trans flush.
Can we read oil pressure over CAN? A big motivation to do this was to ensure better oiling for track days on 200TW tires in the future. I don't think I'll get good before/after data, but I would be nice to confirm safe PSI once it's installed.
I wanted to see if I could replace the rubber trap doors in the oil baffles with metal for a permanent, maintenance free solution to better oil control for far less $$$ than the Moroso pan. Today I dug into it.
The patient:
I used a cutoff wheel on the Dremel to cut through the 6 small welds that hold the baffle assembly to the outer pan:
I made five new trap doors from a piece of stainless piano hinge leftover from another project:
Tack welding the pin to the outer ends of the barrel so these can't come apart in use:
Doors welded in place with lots of double checking to ensure they swing freely and don't stick or bind:
Thin metal in tight spaces is tricky to get a pretty bead. If I had it to do again it would be better as I developed my process along the way. Also, I cooked the inner baffle assembly in a (not used for food) toaster oven to burn the oil out of the surfaces of the metal for cleaner welds:
Outer pan cleaned and ready to receive the baffle assembly:
The outer pan didn't fit in the toaster oven and the welding was more difficult. Thankfully there isn't really anything trying to separate the two pieces. The paint on the outside of the pan burned within a second of starting the arc. I resorted to shorter welds and a few more of them vs. the factory approach:
Crispy:
And finished off with a love note to a future caretaker:
I've prepped this piece to go on during my header install, along with the oil cooler line update, and another trans flush.
Can we read oil pressure over CAN? A big motivation to do this was to ensure better oiling for track days on 200TW tires in the future. I don't think I'll get good before/after data, but I would be nice to confirm safe PSI once it's installed.