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HethelSport Evora Suspension Systems

4.3K views 5 replies 3 participants last post by  brgelise  
#1 ·
HethelSport has been developing some suspension systems, and while they are not nearly ready for release, here's some info. There are also some brief updates and pictures on Facebook. I don't think you have to be signed-in to see these: HethelSport | Suspension Testing

The Evora is pretty darn good and I definitely acknowledge that on Facebook. Every vehicle in the world has compromises. For the street, I believe the Evora compromises (not flaws) are perfect for the car and the target drivers. On track, it can depend on the race circuit, the driver's comfort at the limit, and their experience. For example, I spent three days at Laguna Seca and the stock suspension was pretty darn good at most turns, including the Corkscrew. But at the very technical Sonoma Raceway, at speed, the compromise-turns and the esses really throw the Evora off. The stock setup compresses too much and then releases too quickly and too much--at speed, the car pogos left and right. Throttle steer can also be better--it's okay but in an IPS car with a torque converter, it lags behind the manual. We've already fixed both. We're now working on increasing shear grip!

We also have a track sway bar kit that--in addition to the shocks--will allow more tuning. It's a simple, inexpensive addition that will allow owners to tune the balance of the car. I personally like slightly loose cars... the setup I have now is awesome. "WRC" awesome! :) Well, not quite but it drives like it.

We have three suspension systems in development--they are not tiered but three different setups at three different price points. All of these kits are ours--they are not rebranded pieces. None are 'race setups' either--they are all meant for the street with varying levels of track appropriateness, and all systems will allow corner balancing.

System-A is what I'm experimenting with now and it's wonderful on both the track & street with only a slight increase in ride stiffness--if you have decent roads, as a passenger, your S.O. probably won't notice any difference on the street. We're about 3/4 through development on this.

System-B steps up with Penske shocks. It will provide more adjustments and more suspension control. I'm not willing to make a statement about ride compromises yet--often, advanced shock valve technology will allow stiffer springs to feel softer while making the car more compliant--that's the magic of shock valve tuning and certainly what I'm hoping for here. We're about 1/4 through development on this.

System-C will be similar to -B but with the very best shocks available. Yes, I thought Penskes were the very best--it turns out, that's not always the case. The suspension shop's expectation for this system is ridiculously high. Also 1/4.

System-1 will be comparable to the stock shocks in wear and maintenance. -B & -C will require more maintenance, perhaps every 25,000 street miles but for those that track their Evoras, I expect it will be worth it. Contrary to the trend, neither -B or -C will have too many adjustments--I feel strongly that shocks with too many adjustments are too complex for anyone except suspension experts with years of dedicated experience. This overabundance of adjustments almost always yields an improperly setup car and is generally not appropriate for a streetable car. When we get all three to around 8 or 9/10ths development, we'll re-evaluate and see which kits make it to market. I've been advocating for -A and -B only but the engineers have said I will melt when -C is dialed in.

We've been working on this for six-plus months. You can extrapolate our time line.

Prices... I hope System-A will be comparable to other entry level shocks. Our will have less adjustability but much better overall performance. System-C might be ±2x -A.

The above started as a response to some questions in another post but I realized this might deserve it's own interest and thread. The original questions appeared here: http://www.lotustalk.com/forums/f170/would-you-go-back-elise-373402/index2.html#post5203138

@brgelise Thanks for asking. Yes--I have held a racing license, have raced, have been a driving instructor for almost twenty years, have literally thousands of hours on-track at-speed, and have driven on race tracks in three continents. :) However, the real expertise comes from other racing professionals and a suspension shop that I have confirmed with shock manufactures as 'the' racing & custom suspension shop in the country. I'm pretty okay at this but I've surrounded myself with much better company.
 
#2 ·
I've cut and pasted a response from another thread here where it is more appropriate. Yes, I am interested!!
It took effort to make an Elige handle sharply from the factory, they all understeered like a pig. The Evora is sharp out of the box. I am interested in the future for some higher spring rates as on track I am getting too much full compression. Maybe once someone figures out the new 400 rates, they make us a setup for our cars. I am interested in that, not because I think the car doesn't corner flat, visual looks don't impress me, but because I use it! Compliance is a key component to any Lotus. Many folks that made their Eliges stiff as a brick found out the hard way that they WERE NOW SLOWER! I think my track pack setup on the Elise was ideal for dual use. For street I'd run shocks at 2-3 and at track I'd run them at 10/9. Some adjustable shocks might be the best all round solution.
I'll be the first to say adjustability can be a pro and a con. If you are a serious racer and have the time to spend dialing things in, great. But for us mortals that do ~ a dozen days a year, a simple adjustability gets the job done nicely. So we are 100% on the same wavelength here!! Those multi/multi adjustable setups are affected by .5lb tire pressure increments, different rubber, the variables are endless.I have run ist a 2010 NA car and now my S for 5 years on track. I have yet to sit in a better balanced, more driveable car. The car feels great to me but I know I'm stressing things by the rubbing of my TD 1.3 rear (18x10) wheels on rear lower front Arm and holes in my front liners. Those are force driven events. As many of us are burning thru our liners, that might be a worthy item to look into. There seems to be a lot of space behind them meaning they are poorly designed. Another cm of clearance would remove the problem. Again, are they modified on a 400? The wheels are a self burnishing /correcting event. I've just removed a bit of the casting excess material in that location. ?? Do you feel the sway bars are responsible for some of the things I'm seeing??
 
#3 ·
Springs

@brgelise The OEM Evora springs are quite interesting. We have had them on a spring dyno and the results were surprising. As it visually indicates, the springs are definitely progressive but the threshold from low-rate to high-rate was quick. The spring basically acted like a 'race' spring with a helper spring rather than a tender spring*. I believe this setup is the magic-fairy-dust that makes the Evora handle so wonderful on the street and on the track.


* A tender spring is short-height spring available in many rates. It is used with a 'race' spring to effectively recreate a progressive spring system. The benefit of using both a race and tender is it allows custom rates for both. This is not an uncommon setup for production-based race cars.
* A helper spring is also a short-height spring but it's rate is ridiculously low. It is also used with a race spring but it's sole purpose in life is to create pressure on the race spring at droop (IOW, it keeps the race spring from falling out when the car is unload on jacks, bouncing off curbs, or even simply when a corner of the car is unloaded.) A helper spring does not affect the overall spring rate of the system.
* In general, a race spring is considered a linear spring manufactured in a couple industry standard diameters, in a wide variety of heights, and a wide variety of spring rates. The size standardization allows multiple manufactures to produce springs that work in most (effectively all) aftermarket performance damper assemblies whether a shock-body or a strut. This benefit allows people to change the spring rates by easily changing the springs. It's also worth noting that there is a normal variance in spring manufactures production methods and products--they are not all the same.

For now, our setups will all use one linear spring per shock. I truly believe this is the best setup for a tracked Evora, and on my car now, the rates are mild enough to be hardly noticeable on the street... you'll notice at first but after a hundred miles, I've found they are effectively as comfortable as stock.

And since there are many simultaneous Evora & Elise owners here, on my '07 Exige S with Track Pack, I had the shocks modified with a standard-sized collar and adjustable perch, allowing it to accept race springs. The concept was easy but the fabrication was much more involved than expected. This gave me a wide choice or spring rates and the final setup was pure track joy. Many of my fellow instructors actually said it was the best handling street-legal car they ever drove.
 
#4 ·
Binding & Rubbing

@brgelise, you wrote about the TD 1.3 wheels rubbing the lower a-arms... I've never experienced this so I'll offer my conceptual thoughts (much of this, I'm sure you already know).

The smaller diameter rears were designed for pure race cars running slick tires. Slicks are a totally different animal than street or DOT-R competition tires. They use less camber, they need higher rate springs, have their own alignments, etc. The suspension travel for a car with slicks should be much less, and if that is the design criteria, there is less concern with suspension components collisions. A street car with a higher compliant suspension needs to allow the wheel to travel up and down more--combined with the wider width, I'm not surprised there is contact.

As for the effect, I'm pretty sure the binding is causing something undesirable on the track (at least before it wore itself through). When the wheel hits the a-arm, it's going to create a drag. That drag is immediate, it's not going to increase or decrease progressively... it'll be on or off. That drag will also happen at a turn on the side that is most loaded, since that's the corner of the car that will be compressed and under acceleration load the most. The wheels at the loaded side of the car will be most sensitive to the binding & drag at the very worst time. Of course, I haven't driven your car so this is theoretical.

I do understand the rubbing is slight. On other cars, I've had to deal with suspension components rubbing and binding, and I'll say the effects are dramatic, sometimes scary and dangerous (I'm not implying this is the case for the TD 1.3 wheels). Very slight suspension component rubs will quickly and drastically change the behavior of the car in--at least to me--very unpredictable ways. I've even seen bushings that were not properly lubricated to cause "jerks" in the balance of a the car.

HethelSport's sway bar kit is not intended to solve the TD 1.3 wheel clearance problem since our kit is more about adjusting balance than limiting wheel travel. While uprated anti-sway bars might alleviate this on the track, I think the proper solution is to use narrower or larger diameter wheels. After that, I'd say a higher spring rate would be the next option... but... I don't think either bars or springs are the right solution. Changing those should be done to adjust the suspension characteristics not to limit wheel travel and clearances. If it were me, I'd get different wheels. (I'm truly not saying that because we're in the process of getting some affordable custom made wheels... really!)
 
#5 ·
the main reason the race cars don't experience it is they run pillowball bushings. The OEM rubber ones are soft (and a unique combination mix between the S and NA cars) and pretty compliant, hence the deflection. The pillowballs definitely are not a good street option. RGB and the Lotus chassis teams are masters at tuning all the bushings, down to the motor and trans mounts, to get the results they are looking for. I'm sure it was done for a reason.

I would imagine a sway bar will help, but we just have the problem of the street car generating pretty impressive lateral grip, that probably won't go away.
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the information. I believe most of the rubbing occurred prior to my alignment work and it was so mild , I barely noticed anything. now with an extra degree of camber, Ibelieve the issue has "self-corrected" between my "adjustment" of the arm and that camber. If we can recreate that magic fairy dust, (will be interesting to see what you find with the new 400 springs) at a ~20increased value, you will have a dream car. This one is tough because the car is so damned sweet already!!!
 
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