Winter is for electrics and wiring... Some mild bends to the metal diagonals inside the Esprit binnacle accommodated the 12.3" Holley digital dash and two ECUmaster 12-button programmable keyboards. They will control pretty much all circuits via CANbus to an ECUmaster PMU 24-DL power distribution module. Other CANbus-capable parts include an ECUmaster battery kill switch and Dual H-Bridge to control linear actuators on the headlight pods and parking brake.

I looked at the Holley Racepak PDM and concluded that the ECUmaster PDM has superior features as well as a Racepak emulator template that gives it good synergy with the Holley Dominator ECU that I'm using for LS3 engine management.

 

Finished the binnacle harness for the Holley digital dash and ECUmaster CANbus keyboards. A 47-pin Deutsche panel connector allows the binnacle to be disconnected and removed in "one easy step." There will be DB-9 and USB data connectors on the binnacle for PC configuration of the ECU and PDM and data logging, and of course a phone charging port.

The thick wire bundle from the Pro Dash could have been scaled down and limited to just power and CANbus. But I decided instead to pre-wire its full complement of analog and digital inputs/outputs for possible future use.

 

The red and green keyboards look like the computers from a 1950s movie! 🤪

 

Fortunately they are dimmable through programming, as well as waterproof and submersible for marine applications, should Roger Moore return as Bond.

 

A fairly heavy load of Spal fans, Meziere electric water pump, and an ABS Systems electric brake servo, led me to a 220A Powermaster alternator. 8’ from the relocated battery in the bonnet to the engine accessories led to 2/0 gauge cables. B+ through parallel 400A circuit breakers and a matching ground cable pass through studs in the bonnet floor and onward through the axis of the backbone inside a 2” PVC tube. The tube is packed out at each end with silicone hoses and held in place by hose clamps. Hopefully just enough compliance and a slightly loose fit in those hoses to allow the backbone to twist around the tube… The oil cooler will be relocated to the engine compartment.

The cables are tinned OFC from CE Auto Electric Supply—over 5000 strands and more flexible than expected.

 

it gets pretty hot in the tunnel, pvc may not work well

 

That's a good point.

I hadn't considered that PVC isn't good above 130-140F--which is likely reached in proximity to the hot water lines. It's not too late to switch to Schedule 80 CPVC--which should be good to 200F and has better insulating properties--and perhaps add a reflective foil around the pipe or the cables inside. The alternative would be to run outside the tunnel fiberglass under the carpeting. Or together with the AC hoses-- but that would add undesireable cable length.

 

your idea of sch80 CPVC with Thermo-Tec on the outside might do the trick

 

I ordered both today. It's tempting to put a thermocouple inside the backbone to check if one could fry an egg inside.

 

Why are you worried about putting conduit inside the tunnel? Use a quality cable, like welding cables, and the insulation will hold up to anything the Esprit can throw at it.

 

I didn't want 8 lbs. of loose cable rolling around in the tunnel, and was also thinking of possible rodent damage. During restoration I removed nests from there.

 

It doesn't have to be loose. Tie it down wherever you can reach it. If the motor is out, you should be able to get up in there, I think. Plus if you pull the shifter out, there's some more you can get to. And it's coming out the front, right? Tie it down there too. You can always do what Lotus did with the AC hoses and make a tie down clamp from a strip of antifreeze jug and pop rivet it down. As for the rodents, well, poison is best. I put it all around the inside perimeter of the shop and garage.

 

I guess I'm a bit superstitious after witnessing a mouse drop down out of the engine compartment of my new M4 after just a few days of sitting in the driveway. Later found the insulation eaten through on a wire to a coil pack. And the car was seeing regular use! That said, after many years of sitting, despite ample evidence of rodents, the wiring harness in the Esprit remained untouched. The mice had focused entirely on padding.

 

Your beemer probably has that soy based insulation on the wires, you know, nice and biodegradable, good for the environment, "green." The Esprit is going to have un-green old tymie plastic insulation that is not nearly as appetizing. You can improve on the rodent resistance by wrapping your wires with honduh hot sauce tape, specifically made to get the rodents to find your wires less appetizing.
hot sauce tape

 

Began fitting Boyd Engineering alum fuel tanks designed for Stevens models. They fit well in the G-car. They are smaller than stock, which makes for an easier in and out. The stock tanks were in fair shape, but the substitution seemed like a good move for the long term. The new ones have around 10% less capacity than stock.

Boyd: 10.5"H x 14.25"W x 17.75"L; 15-16 lbs depending on side
Stock: 12"H x 14.5"W x 18.5"L; 2 lbs. heavier

 

You only live 20 miles from me, yet I didn't hear the obligatory @$%$#@@# that accompanies most tank replacements! Well done.

 

I read the major threads on tanks and am still puzzling over the composition of foam rubber samples. Rather than cover the entire bottom, I'm leaning toward several strategically placed non-hygroscopic blocks to allow air circulation. The G-car has a narrow, raised ridge in the GRP floor upon which the tank rests. Much of the remaining foam on the stock steel tank is not a support element.

Hoping to make enough progress this spring to justify a visit to my garage!

 

Returning to the project after various distractions. Here is the Numeric 987 shifter in situ on the stainless steel saddle that closes the gear level opening in the stock backbone. Numeric's latest shifter includes a spring return to center of neutral. The shifter frame and saddle will be left naked. The stock center console cover is abandoned, to be replaced by a folded SS sheet that flows upward from the saddle to close the dash board opening.

 

Center console facia falling into place. It's a bent stainless steel 3/32" sheet with laser-etched "angel hair" surface pattern, templated for a Classic Auto Air alum billet HVAC control and a compact Alpine remote control connected by umbilical to a remote head unit.

 

Very clean. Curious to see how the Clasic Ato air comes together. Did you fab that or do the cad and have a shop do it?

 

Done with my shop press, bender, and angle grinder.

 

Looks amazing

Totally thought it was CNC or water jet

 

very cool! but certainly a lot of work. nice idea for a project car

 

A little music to soothe the savage breast of the LS3... I fabricated a module with alum plate and SS stand-ups that packs in two JL Audio VX600/6i 6-channel DSP amps and an Alpine HDS-990 hi-res remote head unit. The stand-ups incorporate damping grommets to reduce vibration. The module has a third tier to mount other electronics TBD. Speakers are drawn from several Focal model ranges-- including 5.5" K2 subs that were the only really good subs I could find that will fit and perform well in the stock cavities behind the seats.

This was a tight fit. The stack has clearance for all wiring to pass through cavities between the levels.

 

Starting in on the Renegade kit proper with an unboxed LS376/480. First step is to reverse the intake manifold for a mid-engine config. The manifold is reversible but the valley cover is not. There is a $500 Katech solution, but the alternative is to cut off the oil pressure sensor bung from the valley cover, seal the hole, and relocate the pressure sensor to the lower block at the oil filter. Lacking welding capability, I plated the hole. Photo with reversed manifold. At this point with an '85 it's a shot of Vitamin B to be working with a NIB motor.