[Scaldcat]

A diversion. I removed the headlight pods to start in on conversion to LED lamps and linear actuators. Removal was a good idea, as the outer pivot bush in both pods had self-destructed with rust. Lotus should have used an eyelit bearing in the outer location(as used in the inner side pivot) but there is insufficient clearance on the outer side for the riveted-in eyelit mounting plate. So now the outer bearing pivot is machined alloy. I see from the parts manual that all of this was redesigned after 1987.

 

[Scaldcat]

Renegade recommends a clutch master cylinder of .75 " bore x 1.12" stroke to match flow through a stock Porsche 986 slave cylinder. Here is Wilwood pn 16838-75 with a DIY extension to a stock Esprit yoke at the pedal.

 

[Scaldcat]

Test fitting of front left suspension: SJS upper wishbones adjustable camber kit, PUK poly bushings, Nitron shock, modified 5 x 108 hub from a late model Esprit, and Wilwood 6-puck caliper with 12" disk as supplied by Claudius with his S4S mounting bracket. Oddly, the securing bolts for the mounting bracket are inserted from the outboard side between the brake disk and the caliper(a very cramped space!), rather than from the inboard side of the upper link as per stock Esprit. The easiest approach is to remove the caliper from its mounting bracket, mount the bracket by itself, then bolt the caliper onto the bracket. Much frustration trying to mount the two as a single assembly.

 

[Dee Cee]

The back end is where it gets interesting. If you are doing the outboard conversion (you need the Stevens hubs), let me know and I'll give you the Wilwood part numbers for the rear brake set up.

I believe I had to have Custom Rotor Hats built...

I worked with the Wilwood engineers in Camarillo, CA and they put together what they described as an "Excellent Brake Package" based upon the set up sold by Lotus by Cladius and SJ.

The Nitrons are the best of the best, although I would have liked some adjusters on the front shocks.

SJ has the springs to match, although you will need a booster spring from Eibach to keep the rear spring in place when the car is lifted, because the shock length is slightly long.

Just an FYI...the Nitrons and Spring combination will allow the car to be lowered to Euro Specs...unless you like it riding as high as a Camaro.

 

[Scaldcat]

Thanks. I acquired a Stevens rear end salvaged from an '89 as well as Claudius's matching rear brackets for Wilwood.
The Nitron V8 kit came with helper springs. I had Nitron lower their stock front and rear spring rates to 375. Hopefully that won't be too stiff. Toward the tail of the project the frame will be stiffened at the shifter cavity, at the interior face of the bulkhead, and in the engine bay from the bulkhead to the rear shock towers-- so I'm fairly confident that moderately stiffer springs rates are the right thing to do, or at least to begin with.

Turned out that Claudius's Wilwood front brake kit was shipped to me with brackets on backwards-- which accounts for earlier remarked aigues during installation...

 

[Scaldcat]

While fitting the sway bar, I noticed that the gating factor on front suspension sag is the body of the Nitron shock in slight contact with the lower pivot arm. This degree of sag is probably rarely encountered in driving, but should I grind a slightly larger arc in the arm so there in NO contact at full sag?

 

[Dr.Hess]

There should be no contact there at anytime, including full droop.

 

[Dee Cee]

Thanks. I acquired a Stevens rear end salvaged from an '89 as well as Claudius's matching rear brackets for Wilwood.
The Nitron V8 kit came with helper springs. I had Nitron lower their stock front and rear spring rates to 375. Hopefully that won't be too stiff. Toward the tail of the project the frame will be stiffened at the shifter cavity, at the interior face of the bulkhead, and in the engine bay from the bulkhead to the rear shock towers-- so I'm fairly confident that moderately stiffer springs rates are the right thing to do, or at least to begin with.

Turned out that Claudius's Wilwood front brake kit was shipped to me with brackets on backwards-- which accounts for earlier remarked aigues during installation...

I don't know if it needs all that. The X180R only had a top cage that was bolted in, and that was left off the race car after it became a pain to remove it every time the car was serviced.

You don't want to create rigid points on the frame because, like a weld, the weakest area will be next to it.

Looking at the frame, I would only add an additional diagonal brace, that replicates the existing lower right side diagonal brace on the lower frame area...if that.

 

[Dee Cee]

While fitting the sway bar, I noticed that the gating factor on front suspension sag is the body of the Nitron shock in slight contact with the lower pivot arm. This degree of sag is probably rarely encountered in driving, but should I grind a slightly larger arc in the arm so there in NO contact at full sag?

View attachment 1346399 View attachment 1346400

?????

 

[Dee Cee]

While fitting the sway bar, I noticed that the gating factor on front suspension sag is the body of the Nitron shock in slight contact with the lower pivot arm. This degree of sag is probably rarely encountered in driving, but should I grind a slightly larger arc in the arm so there in NO contact at full sag?

View attachment 1346399 View attachment 1346400

Those sure look like they are for the rear.
My front ones don't have any threading for adjusters and the lower section looks like an upside down wine glass stem, with the stem being round and 1" thick.

 

[Scaldcat]

Front and rear Nitrons that I ordered in late 2021 have the same design features--each with adjustable springs and a combined damping/rebound adjustment at the top of the stem. Pictured is the rear shock, with an asymmetrical boss at the pivot. The front shock's pivot is symmetrical and precisely fits the front suspension pivot. Pictured here with a DIY adapter for the '85 rear tower.

 

[Dee Cee]

Front and rear Nitrons that I ordered in late 2021 have the same design features--each with adjustable springs and a combined damping/rebound adjustment at the top of the stem. Pictured is the rear shock, with an asymmetrical boss at the pivot. The front shock's pivot is symmetrical and precisely fits the front suspension pivot. Pictured here with a DIY adapter for the '85 rear tower.

View attachment 1346438 View attachment 1346439

My mistake.
I had Spax, trashed them because the length was ridiculous, considered Nitron, but went with AVO. I was warned about the issue that you are dealing with while I was researching, so AVO was the choice. I bought the shocks and springs from PNM. The "Adapter" that you made (made exactly the same) was not required and was trashed with the install of the new springs. The shocker was that the Esprit can now be lowered to Euro specs.

 

[Dee Cee]

Have you tried to lower the alternator to where the vacuum pump would be located? I'm yanking my alternator this afternoon, seeing if there is space (and if there is) having a custom bracket water jetted this week. Don't like the Alternator so close to the coil and side panel. The AC compressor and Alternator need to be made more compact or need to be relocated. I'm trying to clear space possibly for 180 degree headers...If Duke would ever return my calls.

 

[Dee Cee]

Still waiting for the back-ordered crate motor and Holley LS3 harness. Currently reassembling the steering rack with the Lotus Marques rebuild kit. Its innards appear identical to stock except for tapered roller bearings in place of stock ball bearings, and a bronze bush in place of stock nylon. The tighter tolerances and smoother action of the new bearings is noticeable.

View attachment 1300520

It not just the bearing, its that the rack wears in the center more than the ends. Either its fine in the steering wheel's neutral position and tight when you turn the wheel to the right or left limits or vice versa. I bought a new rack from SJ, to give me piece of mind ($455), but they also have rebuild units for $308. When I started on this project the Esprit only had 25,000 miles.

 

[Scaldcat]

In the next few days I'll have the rebuilt steering rack in place and see how it feels. All with fresh U joints and ball joints.

The Sanden AC compressor, Powermaster 200A alternator, and Moroso electric water pump in the Renegade LS3 conversion are fairly compact pieces and positioned differently than a 910. I'm still a ways off from the engine bay.

After widening the hole in the pivot arm to increase clearance, the Nitron shock now clears the pivot arm across the full range of suspension travel. Thank you Dr. Hess. The welded seams along the edge of the arm hole that contribute to its strength remain intact. The shock could not have been even one mm wider for this application.

 

[Dee Cee]

In the next few days I'll have the rebuilt steering rack in place and see how it feels. All with fresh U joints and ball joints.

The Sanden AC compressor, Powermaster 200A alternator, and Moroso electric water pump in the Renegade LS3 conversion are fairly compact pieces and positioned differently than a 910. I'm still a ways off from the engine bay.

After widening the hole in the pivot arm to increase clearance, the Nitron shock now clears the pivot arm across the full range of suspension travel. Thank you Dr. Hess. The welded seams along the edge of the arm hole that contribute to its strength remain intact. The shock could not have been even one mm wider for this application.

View attachment 1346462 View attachment 1346463 View attachment 1346465

The unevenness may not be the rack, but rather the column. There is a diamond cut section for crash impact absorbtion that gets easily bent and ends up rubbing the inside the column outer tube.

Renegade's water pump is a Meziere, not a Moroso. Scott at Renegade and Dave Meziere are buddies.

 

[Scaldcat]

Yep, Meziere. I need to get that part out its box and into circulation....

 

[Scaldcat]

I see Dee Cee's point about the steering column. The collapsible expanded metal sleeve is unanchored at the midpoint of the column and free to shift laterally, in effect bending the column into contact with the shaft. I remember those nasty noises on rough roads. Lotus could have added an extra race of bearings to centralize the shaft and stiffen the column, but a ring of zip ties does the trick.

 

[Dee Cee]

I see Dee Cee's point about the steering column. The collapsible expanded metal sleeve is unanchored at the midpoint of the column and free to shift laterally, in effect bending the column into contact with the shaft. I remember those nasty noises on rough roads. Lotus could have added an extra race of bearings to centralize the shaft and stiffen the column, but a ring of zip ties does the trick.

View attachment 1347315

Yep, bought a new rack and changed the universal joints, only to find that the intermittent resistance was still in the steering column.
When I did the sawzall autopsy, I found deep gouges in the outer metal tube, indicating that it had been going on for quite a while.
My thoughts were that it had to have been yanking on the steering wheel getting in and out.
As for the additional bearing, but I think the flimsy design has a lot to do with it being a crash crumple zone.

 

[Scaldcat]

Finished installing the rack and pinion rebuilt with Lotus Marques tapered roller bearings, bronze bush, and SS tie rods. All nice pieces. Braced the steering column to the steel dashboard cross-member to eliminate all flex and shaking. The horizontal braces double as platforms for two vertical braces that stabilize the shaky instrument binnacle. All in the interest of a quieter, more solid feel...