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Evora Red Oil Pan Baffle Permanent Option

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2.8K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  friss  
#1 · (Edited)
I needed to replace my oil pan baffles in my new to me 2020 Evora GT. The sales person looked at me like I had 2 heads when I asked if they changed the oil pan baffles. He could never remember to ask the service manager either.

It bugged me that the apparent options were replace an OEM baffled oil pan with an aftermarket baffled pan. Do some searching and you will find the aftermarket pans have limited clearance to the middle pipe. Really high heat and oil leads to burn off and oil break down. Yes, you can add insulation and reduce the heat transfer.

Or

Every 2 years or 18k miles pull my oil pan to replace these pieces of rubber. Rubber, hot oil, fuel, and flexing lead to failure. Also removing the oil pan in the tight space increases the propensity for damage to the pan and the mating surfaces.

I decided to find a different option.

I prefer to do my own work. If you pay for someone else to do the work, beware. In my case the ^%$*& (read mental giant) wrench turner didn't know what 10 newton meters was or how to remove a pan the correct way.
They stripped out the threads in the aluminum for one bolt. The bolt was held in place by the gasket material. I was lucky that a longer bolt and lock nut solved the issue (that was likely the source of my oil leak)
They also mangled the pan mating surface in 2 locations. Careful filing reduced the ridges. Hondabond will hopefully do the rest.

Here is the solution I found (It also cost the same or less than the lotus rubber gate valves):
2 sets of Improved Racing EMR-201-KIT
10 Each #6-32 screws 3/8" or 1/2" I used 1/2" and spent time ratcheting the screw through. I would suggest 3/8" if I had to do it again. - I opted for hex head - 1/4" socket
10 each #6-32 lock nuts - 5/16" socket
Washers if you want.
I chose #6 screws because it allowed easy movement within the Lotus slots. #8 would make this a harder task.
You will need to drill the IR baffle holes for the #6 screw - 9/64" works

Here are photos comparing brand new Lotus gate valves with the aluminum baffles.
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Here is a photo of a compromise by using these baffles. There will be oil leakage here. Not anymore than the gap between the baffle plates and the oil pan. I am not convinced the rubber baffles fully seat every time, they are flexible and deflect differently by blowing on them. I can't say the IR baffles leak more or less than the OEM pieces.



I only had to knock off one weld marble for the baffles to sit flat. Slight tap it came off.
For all the baffles I didn't want the baffle to stick baffle plate (think suction cup). I solved this by rounding the bottom edge of the baffles slightly. I checked that each one would fall away under gravity with oil applied to both surfaces.

I started with the center of the 3 side baffles.
This is the highest baffle.
I had to trim some off the top.
Image
Image

I had to bend the Toyota baffle plate slightly. The two points were the problem. Small crescent wrench, pliers, etc. I would not use a Dremel and abrasive wheel unless you can get all of that debris out.

I had to bend the IR baffle corner back slightly to provide clearance for the puddle weld.
Image


I then moved to the baffle in the drain plug chamber.
I had to bend the Toyota baffle plate slightly for clearance.
Image


The 3rd baffle did not require modifications.

 

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#2 ·
2 baffle side
I wanted more clearance between these baffles so I pushed them to the outer sides of the slots.
I trimmed the swinging baffle for the curve of the pan.
Image



Final installed photos:
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If you have large hands, this will be tough.
I had to use needle nose pliers, 1/4" open end wrench, extensions and a universal to access these. For some screws, I used the ratchets to get the nut close to tight. I then slid the baffle over and installed the second screw. The open end wrench held the first screw head place to finish the tightening in the low clearance area.
I also intentionally had the screws go in toward the pickup tube. It was easier to thread the nut on in the large center area.

If I find problems with this option, I will report back. I don't foresee any at this time.
I tried to get the baffles to bind together and stay open. I couldn't make them do it. The baffle plates are on different planes and at different elevations. Geometry is working in our favor.

I don't track my Evora. I have an Elise frame that I track. I don't have datalogging on the Evora. If someone tries this and data logs their oil pressures, please share.

I presently have 3 spare baffles. If you want to buy one of my spares to save you the extra kit, shoot me a PM.
 
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#3 ·
This photo didn't upload in the first post.

Here is a photo of a compromise by using these baffles. There will be oil leakage here. Not anymore than the gap between the baffle plates and the oil pan. I am not convinced the rubber baffles fully seat every time, they are flexible and deflect differently by blowing on them. I can't say the IR baffles leak more or less than the OEM pieces.
Image
 
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Reactions: Frohst
#4 ·
Thank you for executing on this!

Always been an idea to swap in a gt pan/Wilhelm and do baffles with similar metal stuff if I ever have the oil pan off on my 400.

Now I have easy names to Google n buy - excuses to not do it are running out 😅