Very nice my man! You did what I was thinking. :clap:

PS I think i will just use super strong Velcro.

 

You defaced state property? How could you! :up:

 

You defaced state property? How could you! :up:

Well I didn't really 'deface' it... I just 'faceditdifferently' :nanner:

 

Well I didn't really 'deface' it... I just 'faceditdifferently' :nanner:

Good come back!

 

Paul,
Looks good but I'll probably wait until I get a warning before I mount mine.

Jim A.

 

Thanks, Paul.
Good post - nice, detailed pics. I'm going to try to do without them, but it's nice to have a good backup plan if the police aren't cooperative.

 

Two birds with one stone! Nice move! :clap:

 

Great solution. Thanks for the post! I will be adding my plates in the same way.

 

I did it the same way but did not want to drill holes at all. I bought a bolt at Lowe's that matchs the tow hook width. I painted it black and attached the plate to the bolt with some rubber "washers" and screwed it into the tow hook opening. Then I used double sided tape to keep the plate from rocking back and forth.

 

nice idea,did something similar on my elan rear plate,becouse it was just too tall. :shift:

 

i just added my plate to the front this weekend too.
i got a bolt that matched the tow hook and drilled a hole in the middle of my plate and put the bolt through and used a plastic spacer to keep things tight.
the only problem i think i might have with the plate in the front is now the grille is covered and engine temperature might rise quicker since airflow is restricted a little more.

 

Nice adaptation Paul. I'm going to stick with the exterior double-sided tape and try to avoid any drilling in the clam, unless the tape does not prove durable enough. If the tape separates, then your method of mounting the screws from underneath will be my fall-back. Thanks!

I already have the plate extending slightly below the two clam tabs as an early warning for scrapes -- but if I'm hitting it too often and it begins to separate the plate from the clam, then I'll have to raise it slightly (with another layer of furniture pads under the top fold).

 

I did it the same way but did not want to drill holes at all. I bought a bolt at Lowe's that matchs the tow hook width. I painted it black and attached the plate to the bolt with some rubber "washers" and screwed it into the tow hook opening. Then I used double sided tape to keep the plate from rocking back and forth.

Can you post pictures?

 

Showed the plate ' wrap-a-round' set up to a policeman friend of mine
and he claimed it was still illegal. Then he added, 'why not use a plain
sheet of base metal in the form of the wrap-a-round plate and secure
your actual plate to it, setting it so that the license plate's lowest
point is positioned at the lowest point of the base plate, thereby
allowing the same amount of ground clearance? If you don't want to
'screw' attach it, try magnets like the car dealers do with their dealer
plates.'

 

If you don't want to 'screw' attach it, try magnets like the car dealers do with their dealer plates.'

It's a fiberglass bodied car - magnets don't stick...

 

Showed the plate ' wrap-a-round' set up to a policeman friend of mine
and he claimed it was still illegal. Then he added, 'why not use a plain
sheet of base metal in the form of the wrap-a-round plate and secure
your actual plate to it, setting it so that the license plate's lowest
point is positioned at the lowest point of the base plate, thereby
allowing the same amount of ground clearance? If you don't want to
'screw' attach it, try magnets like the car dealers do with their dealer
plates.'

You would block quite a bit of the radiator if you did that. Also the Magnet idea only works if their was something magnetic to stick it to where there is not in this case unless some metal plates were added inside the clam

I showed this to an officer friend of mine and he said that bending the plate is not illegal as long as the numbers and state display is clearly visible from direct view. The way the top was bent may cause some closer scrutiny though.

 

From what I understand number and state is all that is needed.

 

It's a fiberglass bodied car - magnets don't stick...

the plain plate you would be using in place of the actual license plate being shown in its bent shape would be metal. Your license plate is also metal. Don't understand why you are mentioning fiberglass? P.S. - With regard to the why
we need a front plate? Police Officer comment: " If we're looking for a stolen
car we are going to see a lot more cars driving toward us than driving with us."

 

Paul,
Exactly how many inches of the plate angle up under your car? It's difficult to tell from the picture. I'm not so sure that I have as much space under my Virginia license plate numbers as you do, and I want to avoid drilling holes to far forward and missing the clam. Thanks.

 

tag solution

Paul,

At least I'll know your car when I see it in Owings Mills. A friend of mine who lives in New Town saw a yellow elise there last week, might that have been you?

Todd

I think I may do something similar, but I'm contemplating velcro instead of screws.

 

Aesthetics are a personal thing but I've had the front plate attached
from day 1 and there is no problem with air being blocked. Since the
plate is not directly against the grill, air can enter from all around the
top and sides of the plate.

 

But its not yet the depth of summer in stop and go traffic, when you may need every bit of air flow you can generate! (Of course, you could drill holes in your plate between the letters and numbers) :huh:

 

Paul,
Exactly how many inches of the plate angle up under your car? It's difficult to tell from the picture. I'm not so sure that I have as much space under my Virginia license plate numbers as you do, and I want to avoid drilling holes to far forward and missing the clam. Thanks.

The license plates in the front are needed so the officer knows where to point the laser gun.
BTW The plates have a special reflective coating for laser detection

 

But its not yet the depth of summer in stop and go traffic, when you may need every bit of air flow you can generate! (Of course, you could drill holes in your plate between the letters and numbers) :huh:

When you're in a 'stop and go' scenario, the fact that you are in a
position 'constantly' where the car in front of you is blocking any
wind that otherwise would be onrushing, logically would dictate that
with or without the mounted front plate, temperature would rise
equally as fast. Once you begin going again at low, moderate, or high
speed, the air will still whoosh in from top and sides. Keep in mind that
the plate-holder I use is an official 'tested' Lotus part and, believe me,
if your car can't handle temperatures in hot, idyling situations without
nearing an overheat situation it is time to check out your cooling
system because something is drastically wrong with it and has nothing
to do with a properly attached front plate.

 

Paul,
Exactly how many inches of the plate angle up under your car? It's difficult to tell from the picture. I'm not so sure that I have as much space under my Virginia license plate numbers as you do, and I want to avoid drilling holes to far forward and missing the clam. Thanks.

Sorry for the delay - been away!

The lower (and upper as it happens) bent parts of my plate are 1.25" e.g. I've bent 1.25" of the plate underneath the car and likewise at the top, that leaves about 3.5" of flat plate showing the number. Hope that helps!

Yeah if ya saw a yellow one in New Town it was certainly me :shift:

I never claimed this set-up was legal, it's just a hell of a lot more legal than no plate at all and more likely to solicit a gentle warning or even guffaw rather than an official piece of paper. Plus it has done wonders for my stress levels!

Paul