Smaay on NC.org is the only guy who has done it thus far. I am definately serious about this for the stroke winter though. I already have the block and the crank, and I just got my head, which is to be ported and polished.

 

I have the n/a kit for a customer build. They look like bike pistons. The crower rods are LONGER than stock 2zz rods.

The build is coming along slowly but we will have pics and dyno when the time comes.

 

I have the n/a kit for a customer build. They look like bike pistons. The crower rods are LONGER than stock 2zz rods.

The build is coming along slowly but we will have pics and dyno when the time comes.

They're supposed to be longer, right? It's a stroker kit... Longer rods with the appropriately larger crankshaft gives longer stroke length than stock.

'Greg

 

sure would be nice

 

Normally stroker rods are shorter because the stroke of a stroker is longer. The longer stroke with stock rods and pistons make the pistons shoot up above the deck. This are bad. But the MWR pistons move the pin way up into the piston and allow for longer rods and longer stroke.

 

Any updates? Does anyone have a custom ECU that will take advantage of a stroker and other goodies one might put on such a motor (cams, header, etc.)???

 

Any updates? Does anyone have a custom ECU that will take advantage of a stroker and other goodies one might put on such a motor (cams, header, etc.)???

A Haltech will work just fine wuth this.

 

Normally stroker rods are shorter because the stroke of a stroker is longer. The longer stroke with stock rods and pistons make the pistons shoot up above the deck. This are bad. But the MWR pistons move the pin way up into the piston and allow for longer rods and longer stroke.

Forgive me, for not following up. The assumption about shorter rods, requires the stock crankshaft. If you have an appropriately re-designed crank shaft, the rods are not necessarilly shorter, correct? I believe, the MWR kit includes a crank, though if it's just a stock one, I'm not sure why.

http://monkeywrenchracing.com/mwr_toyota_2zz_stroker_kit.html

Perhaps I'm guilty of extrapolating, but my only research into this topic is the FlyinMiata stroker kit for the miata (my current project) and the rods are 8mm longer than stock:

http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4530&parentid=0&stocknumber=04-66350

'Greg

 

I would be curious to figure the rod ratio of that set up if anyone would care to measure it up.

Rod length/stroke ='s ratio.

Short short pistons in general scare me...not much meat left around the ring lands, but I freely admit I have not seen this particular set up to comment on it.

 

Darton sleeves. That's nice, but expensive machine work. I see our motors have a fully open deck:huh: . That's weak garbage. I have blown up plenty of Subaru motors with semi-closed deck blocks. I now run a EJ22 fully closed deck block. Moving cylinder walls sucks.

I wonder if the Darton sleeves need dowel pins to locate them? Anybody seen that type of stuff? The whole block gets hollowed out almost, pins gets machined verticaly around the floating iron sleeve. Expensive and very hard machine work. I'd just buy some block-fill and pour that in. :nanner:

 

We've built and shipped more than 10 complete 2zz stroker engines and have shipped kits for many more than that. Overall response has been very positive. Low and midrange torque goes up significantly. The engine is actually usable in the midrange. Top end power increases, the amount depends on ported/non-ported head, bolt-ons, and tuning.

Some customers are running the stroker with the stock ECU and report that it adapts pretty well. Others are running aftermarket ECUs and turbos, revving to 8400rpm, and not having durability problems. We tested this combination pretty thoroughly and have yet to have any problems with it.

We get questions all the time on legality. Technically, changing anything in your engine is not emissions legal. Regarding detectability, as long as it's running well no emissions test should be able to detect the stroker. It'll run just as clean as the stock engine and won't cause a check engine light.

 

Darton sleeves. That's nice, but expensive machine work. I see our motors have a fully open deck:huh: . That's weak garbage. I have blown up plenty of Subaru motors with semi-closed deck blocks. I now run a EJ22 fully closed deck block. Moving cylinder walls sucks.

I wonder if the Darton sleeves need dowel pins to locate them? Anybody seen that type of stuff? The whole block gets hollowed out almost, pins gets machined verticaly around the floating iron sleeve. Expensive and very hard machine work. I'd just buy some block-fill and pour that in. :nanner:

The Dartons are a simple standard sleeve. The machine work isn't cheap but there's nothing too tricky about it. We do it because the stock walls (aluminum with coating) don't hold up well with forged pistons.

We do maintain the open deck, which has been fine even for those making over 400hp at the wheels. It's a much more rigid block than the Subies or the Hondas.

 

Thank you sir. Sounds good.