My 2+0 was built in July 2010, as a 2011. I only have around 4500 miles on my car. The clutch is good, although I have not had my car on the track.
Ron:shift:

 

Thanks for the info. Will see if we get more replies.

 

What i recommend is to sit inside the car and press the clutch. If the clutch feels very soft and easy to engage then you have the upgraded clutch and flywheel which comes stock with all 2012 cars. We have a friend here that has a late model 2011 that has almost all upgrades of 2012 including the upgraded shifter cable. The older models have an older pressure plate which is a bit harder to engage. That said I have a 2010 car and my clutch was upgraded to a 2012 spec clutch and flywheel when I installed my supercharger.

 

This is incorrect, the clutch plate & flywheel weren't changed for 2012. The N/A Evora has always used the same clutch plate & flywheel and when the 'S' was introduced (2010) it used a lighter plate and flywheel which is what you had fitted. The only changes the MY12 had to the transmission was the cables.

To answer the original question - you shouldn't have any more problems than any other car, just make sure you're sympathetic to the drivetrain.

 

Very good. Since I have one year warranty left, if there is a problem I can ask for the upgrade.

 

At least some of the "clutch failures" have been due to inadequate heat shielding of the transmission fluid and not a problem with the clutch itself. There is a TSB regarding installation of a shield to prevent boiling of the fluid for some cases of "clutch failure."

 

I don't think they will allow upgrades unless the car came with that specific kit. To be honest buying a used car is always a challenge just because of these kind of issues. You don't know if the previous owner had any clue about breaking in the clutch and driving careful for the first 800 Miles. There are certain things you have to accept when you buy a used car.

 

38.000 miles driven with a launch modell; clutch still fantastic. It also depends, how you "treat" it. A

 

The culprit wasn't the clutch plate or flywheel. Early owners had these parts replaced due to the resulting damage caused by the a poorly mated throwout bearing.

 

Squid is correct. In reality, it has only been a handful of cars. Buy it and you'll love it. My clutch has seen the track and is fabulous (BTW took a long time to break in!) Heel /TOE in sport mode at the track was effortless!!:clap:

 

S was not produced in 2010. It came out in 2011 and yes the clutch is different on the S. You are more than welcome to go back to my existing post on "supercharging my NA evora" and take a look at the pictures. The clutch and flywheel is different on the NA and S.

 

Ramtin, you seem to be agreeing with me then? The N/A and 'S' have always had different clutch plates and flywheels but neither were changed for MY12.

Just to clarify the states might have got the 'S' in 2011 but the rest of the world got it at the end of 2010.

 

You are correct JAWS. US got the Evora S in 2011. I believe UK got it first in 2010 and again you are correct about the clutch on the NA and S version. The S has an upgraded clutch, Pressure plate and lighter flywheel. The only thing that was changed on 2012 was the shifter cable as far as the engine and powertrain upgrade goes.

 

Thanks for the info. Makes me feel better. I will be test driving it tomorrow.

 

I have had two clutch replacements both going after 11,500 Kms. The first time one of the plates delaminated and the second the whole clutch fell apart. The clutch that is in the car now had a different part number but the dealer did not know the difference. Both times all costs were cover under warranty. With all the issues I have had I am still not put off and love driving the car daily and look forward when I trade in for the S in a year or so time.

 

Wow Jonathan u deserve a purple heart for hanging' in there. I thought I had it bad lol.

 

Thanks Squid. Had most of the other issues as well, limp mode dozens of times , replaced radio, door latches etc. The LE's sure had there issues but as I said the pleasure out weighs the issues and the fact that the dealer is next door to where I work?

 

I've learned what the LE really stands for is "Lotus Education" model .. Because I've learned so much over the past couple of years working on this car it has actually empowered me to roll up my sleeves whenever I can. I've gotten over the attitude of expecting quality and instead, embrace the idea of adding quality.

 

Absolutely - you need to be truly part of the Lotus experience to understand it.

Personally, I love pulling mine apart...this was the state of play from a monkey installing my Pioneer head unit (not a Lotus issue, a local issue). This photo underplays the situation!

And now, after I fixed it:

Life is good

 

Out of curiosity, I haven't found anything on the forums about the Evora's clutch engagement point. My Evora's clutch engagement is very high, basically once I start pushing the clutch pedal, the clutch is disengaging. I was wondering if everyone else's was like this? I don't mind it - I'm assuming this is on purpose to facilitate lightning fast shifting (heal/toe), it only scares me a bit that somehow the clutch may not be fully engaged since the point is so high when the pedal is released. I'm sure I'm just being a nervous nellie...

 

Actually I've spoken many times about the clutch engagement point.

It's usually about halfway down. If yours is at the top likely its not fully engaged. You may be wearing your clutch down prematurely not to mention loss torque. Do a rolling takeoff in first gear with the clutch fully engaged and if it doesn't feel very torquey you might be slipping the clutch.

 

No worries. As the fluid boils and gasses accumulate the pedal will soften and move downwards.

When it gets near the floor let us know and we'll fix that (clutch bleed. Good fun!)

 

Haha.... actually it's the opposite. When the air bubbles expand the clutch will get tighter and disengage the clutch if the engagement point is already at the top of the throw.

 

Out of curiosity, what have the clutch replacements been running? I haven't kept track. Still about $7,000?

 

4500-7000 but it is very much dealer dependent. Parts aren't too bad, but labor rates vary. It should take about 30 hours in labor.

 

Thanks. The bottom end of that spectrum is still pretty pricey but the top end is just ridiculous.

 

My dealer said that the clutch engagement point varies on the Evora's, anywhere from middle to top of throw. I have not noticed any slippage in torgue from standing starts, either. I asked them to ask T.J. what he thought, so we'll see what T.J. says. They actually adjusted my clutch cable a couple winters ago, and the engagement point remained at the top before and after that adjustment, but the pedal certainly felt firmer.

 

The clutch actuation is self adjusting (to accommodate disk wear) so the (pedal) engagement point should never change.

 

Interesting points. I sort of experienced some of both.

Before my clutch bleed, I had a long pedal, and I also had apparent clutch slippage (occasionally) while in gear under heavy accel.

Does that make any sense? Could you both be (partly) right?