Hi , just remove all hex bolts. 6 M9 head 14 mm and 4 M7 head 11 mm.
Keep shims in place.

cheers,


Harry Martens
VERSNELLINGSBAKREVISIE

 

Hi Harry,

I think you're talking about removing the output shaft housings from the transaxle, and he's just asking about removing the halfshaft's inner CV joint from the output shaft flange. In which case, yes, just remove the Allen drive cap screws and pull the axle off.

Regards,
Tim Engel
Lotus Owners Oftha North (LOON)

 

Thanks, I am pulling my gearbox this coming weekend now, and wanted to be sure I have the correct info before proceeding.

 

If you are replacing the output shaft seals, as Harry notes, then you will require special tools. One is basically just a very long 6-point socket, and the other is similarly long, but with a notch in the end to engage a drive pin. A friend made them by cutting standard deep well sockets, then welding in lengths of thickwall steel tubing (iron water pipe ??) as required. The notch spanner just got the donor socket's square drive end welded on, then the appropriate notch cut into the end... no hex drive.

Factory tools have long been unobtainium, but Harry may have them for sale (?)... ask. Buying would be simpler, if you have the time for shipping.

If you're just addressing the input shaft circlip, then no special tools are required.

The back side of the bell housing forms the forward wall of the differential housing. That space contains gear oil, so drain the gearbox first.

When you remove the output shaft housings and the bell housing from the gearbox, you're basically removing the differential assembly. That sounds worse than it is; however, it's no big deal, except...

The Big Deal:
There are two calibrated shims (spacer washers) behind each output shaft housing. They set the backlash between the crown wheel and pinion, as well as the bearing pre-load. It's critical that you keep track of where each one is when you take things apart, and put them back exactly where you found them. It's not life threatening if you mix up first and second one in per side (do try to keep it straight), but absolutely do not mix them up left side to right side. Remove the right shims with the right housing, and store them with the right housing. Same with the left. Keep left & right separate and marked.

Optional: This would be a great time to check and re-set the backlash and bearing pre-load, or even to replace the differential support bearings. But for that you should have a collection of shim washers at your disposal, and the degree of difficulty just took a quantum leap. Read and 'understand' the relavent sections of the Service Notes before electing to do this.

A new gasket is required for both driveshaft/ output shaft housing to gearbox joints (left & right). Dress both sides of each gasket with Avdelbond A138, LocTite 518, etc, anaerobic sealant. The gasket is part of the total shim washer stack-up, so don't omit it, or substitute some hardware store gasket material you hand cut. Use factory gaskets!

Torque fasteners with Clean Dry threads, unless otherwise specified.
............................................ Lb-Ft .... Kg-m ....... N-m

Driveshaft (output shaft) housings to gearbox:
Housing to Gearbox - 7mm ........ 20.3 ..... 2.81 ......... 27.6
Housing to Gearbox - 9mm ........ 28.9 ..... 4.00 ......... 39.2

Inside each output shaft housing:
Sleeve Nut (Retains Bearing) ..... 72.0 .... 10.00 ........ 98.1
Grub Screw (Locks Sleeve Nut) ... 7.2 ...... 1.00 .......... 9.8
Bearing Locking Nut (driveshaft) 108.0 .... 15.00 ....... 147.0

Bell Housing to Gearbox, 7mm ..... 20.3 ..... 2.81 ........ 27.6
Bell Housing to Gearbox, 9mm ..... 28.9 ..... 4.00 ........ 39.2
Bell Housing to Gearbox, 12mm ... 36.0 ..... 4.98 ........ 48.8
(Assemble with 12mm Washer under the nuts on the forward facing studs inside the bell housing. Dry threads.)

Bell Housing to Oil Sump ............ 30 ........ 4.18 ........ 41.0
The 2 Bolts on the bottom, note shims if present. Also look for stamped marks on the sump near the bolt holes that would indicate the need for shims, and the required thickness.

Clutch Assembly to Flywheel ...... 17-19 ... 2.35-2.6 ... 23.0-26
Flywheel to Crankshaft .............. 55 ........ 7.60 ........ 74.6
.............................................. Lb-Ft .... Kg-m ....... N-m

NOTE: The stock spigot needle bearing (A907E6319F) must be fitted into the crank with it's identifying numbers facing outwards (ie, towards gearbox), and pressed in only until flush with the rear face of the crank (NOT to the bottom of the countersink surrounding the bore). Ensure the bearing is lubricated with either Esso Unirex N3, or Shell Alvania R2 or R3 (or quality equivalent). It is ESSENTIAL that the Nylatron thrust washer (A907F4029F0) is fitted between clutch shaft and spigot bearing (slip it onto the end of the input shaft before mating the transaxle to the engine.

Have fun,
Tim Engel
Lotus Owners Oftha North (LOON)

 

Hi, well if you want to replace the inner oil seal you have to remove the half shaft imho.
Then remove the big nut holding the axle at the bearing and remove the shaft from the housing. After that remove the half of the bearing from the shaft and than you have the seal loose.

Album - Categorie: 4 boite vitesse hydraulique new - Foto: 18Differential housing with seal

regarDSm,

Harry Martens

 

Thanks for all the info, but im just gonna address the clutch area and the input shaft circlip. Then play it by ear and see what I see when its apart.