I think it allows the lower link stud to compress the bushing center without putting undue stress on the carrier (#1). As in not pinching/cracking the ears it goes through.
Bushing is notorious for corroding in place and being a pain to remove, but it should be able to slide in its bore on assembly.

 

It should slide a bit. Makes it a LOT easier to install the lower control arm.

 

Both of those split bushings were completely frozen in place in two carriers that I salvaged from an '89. If that's the case with yours, I suggest that you drill them out to a wider ID and free them by cutting an opposing split with a mini hack saw blade. A strong press risks breaking off the carrier ears. I installed SJS's stainless steel replacements lubricated with anti-seize.

 

It doesn't need to be removed (and shouldn't be), but you should ensure it is not corroded in place. As noted above, it should slide to take up any slack when tightening the assembly.

 

When you say slide do you mean slide using finger strength or something more like a c clamp? Or should I try to tap with a rubber mallet.

 

It will take a fair amount of effort to move it, the act of tightening the nuts on the stud should normally do. If you can't get the control arm into the existing gap you will need to use a large c-clamp or similar to push it outwards a bit. Use a socket that has an ID larger than the bush on the outer side to give it somewhere to go. Never use a hammer.

 

Great. Thanks!

 

Replacements made from stainless steel are best avoided as they as much more likely to suffer from galvanic corrosion and seize in the hub carrier even with the use of anti-seize paste.

 

@sailerbob Galvanic corrosion of non-alum metals in contact with aluminum is a loaded topic, with variables including 304 vs. 316 stainless, coatings applied to mating surfaces, relative humidity(marine vs. landed), etc. There is no dissimilar metal that does not produce a reaction when mated to aluminum. The restoration of my '85 has discovered so many corroded stock fasteners that I steer toward SS wherever possible except in areas requiring high strength. Generally speaking I would lean toward whatever SJS has come to in the course of developing new-production replacement parts.

 

Thanks for the help. I added lube for a couple of days and was then able to move it with a c clamp and a socket.