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The 720HP evora.

8.8K views 38 replies 27 participants last post by  FL_Evora  
#1 ·
Here is a completion of photos in my build. Everything was done by me, except the internal engine work was done by Kim Barr.
Do not ask me to build your evora, this was a passion project and building another is not something I would ever be interested in, There are other cars that are much higher on the priority list! But I am happy to answer questions.


Megasquirt ultimate with 2 microsquirts on canbus to run stuff like heated seats, ac, etc.
GTX3576R gen 2
Every creature comfort was kept, except cruise control(mechanical throttle body)
Removed the factory blower
Wiesco pistons, forged rods
stock crank
still 3.5L, No sleeves
ARP bolts everywhere for the engine
ported everything
ripped out the entire factory engine harness to make my own
Air to air intercooler, working on my carbon fiber mould skills to make a proper duct to the factory side vent
full intake/exhaust, but use a ported factory lower. not optimal, runners are too short but made making the plenum much easier. Designed the plenum using CFD, ill send the file to anybody who wants it, msg email address.
Made the whole exhaust, nothing factory left.
FIC 1200cc short ev14's extended nozzle. made the -8 fuel rail from an extrusion.
Trans is stock other than LSD
6 EGT's and 2 o2's
shaved the valve covers for looks
Pi Dash
Mechanical throttle body
DIYAUTOTUNE IAC valve body
VVTI delete, couldn't handle the valve spring pressure
TurboWerx oil pump to get oil back to the pan.
Wet sump, made a pan with doors


I have left out a ton here! it takes a lot of supporting mods to flow the fuel required and have enough cooling for sustained power. plus tons of less significant stuff I am forgetting or was irrelevant in this context.

Run e85 whenever possible just for cooling, but its flex fuel so 93 or 91 octane is fine just tuned to make less boost and retard timing.
Have about 10k miles on the current setup. Its a daily driver, if youre wondering why it isn't more extreme that's why. I love the car as a daily so much, it can't become a Sunday driver. I beat the ever living s*** out of it.

Absolutely drag cars on the street at a 40 roll. Hooks up like crazy! But never dig race for fear of breaking drivetrain stuff.

The failure mode here will be the open deck with no sleeves, next motor will be darton sleeved.


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#4 ·
Wow! Prepare for incoming!
 
owns 2006 Lotus Elise
#5 ·
Beautiful. Congrats. And well done. Did you try to make an older style mechanical cruise control work and just wasn't worth it? Or cruise isn't really an issue for you?
 
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Reactions: Starlight
#8 ·
Thank you! And I did not think I would miss cruise but I do on those long road trips. Ordered and waiting on a a DBW X2 module to go back to DBW for this.
any add on cruise solution just seems dangerous for me to implement, being unfirmiliar with them.
 
#10 ·
Tuner studio is amazing, and a Pi makes it so easy to package. Have a controller with a trackpad and keyboard I can use to do anything tune wise, no laptop required.
Here's a pic of the dash setup. Line graphs on the bottom are AFR and MAP
Image

Valentine 1 radar remote display on the bottom left, lights beside the display are blinkers, high beam indicator, no charge indicator, and green is anti-lag active.
 
#12 ·
Thank you!
Lots of dyno time, admittedly mostly ironing out issues. And can’t build a good timing map without one(well, I can’t anyway).

I purposely limit boost in the mid range to keep cylinder pressure down, as it’s still open deck. Boost ramps down and then back up across the midrange, to get as flat a torque curve as I can. Like to keep it around 530tq(after drivetrain correction) because that’s what the engine builder wanted.
due to this peak power is actually way late, at 7100rpm.
 
#13 ·
What's amazing about your build beside your incredible numbers is that you're DD it and with oem transmission. Is it the stock clutch as well? Any plans to upgrade the gearbox?
 
owns 2006 Lotus Elise
#14 ·
Not stock clutch, but stock flywheel. Heavier plate and more aggressive friction material, from clutchmasters. Keeping the torque down really helps it live, next motor I think I’ll get mccloud racing to build me something stronger.

Tried a billet flywheel twin disk with one ceramic disk and one fiber disk also from clutchmasters, it was impossible to use on the street. Just an on-off switch. There is no slipping it, it just grabs and stalls or knocks off the tires. Wouldn’t recommend that for anything but a competition car.

As for the transmission, I don’t have any plans to upgrade. When it breaks I’ll look into it. So far has been fine for a lot longer than an e153 would last, but those do have a lot more aftermarket upgrade options. May end up just having a factory trans cryo treated, depending on the failure mode.
 
#15 ·
Would be interesting to see the dyno plot. Curious how that plot looks. Or even a 60-120mph pull with some data.

Surprised the gearbox is holding that power.


Does the wastegate just dump like that or do you have an actual pipe to dump it further out?
 
#17 ·
Holy *ing * ….

…Jesus Christ man this forum is all quiet, predictable and simple and stuff like a small house in boons full of old retired British ladies then here comes this bro on a quiet knitting Sunday flying through the window with some earth shattering Evora world changing news…

And like literally right after I got it in my head I wanted to turbo this thing (which oh by the way like, what, literally only one f***ing guy has done, EVER, in the entire history of the Evora — that we know about anyway)

But wait, there’s more: that that one guy also had only marginal power increases over the SC cars but on other hand my new superhero here just took a big chit on his build with a “7” in front, oh and also it’s already built oh and also he’s been romping on it for a solid 10k miles no sweat…

Reading the OP just about put me into an epileptic seizure with a mixed bag of confusion and excitement…

😳😮‍💨
 
#21 ·
Definitely a cool build and nice to see people push the Evora platform in various ways. The last Turbo Evora shown on here was a burnt husk so definitely would be cool to see more be built.

If you haven't sold it already I may be interested in the stock blower you removed.
 
#26 ·
Here is a completion of photos in my build. Everything was done by me, except the internal engine work was done by Kim Barr.
Do not ask me to build your evora, this was a passion project and building another is not something I would ever be interested in, There are other cars that are much higher on the priority list! But I am happy to answer questions.


...


I have left out a ton here! it takes a lot of supporting mods to flow the fuel required and have enough cooling for sustained power. plus tons of less significant stuff I am forgetting or was irrelevant in this context.

Run e85 whenever possible just for cooling, but its flex fuel so 93 or 91 octane is fine just tuned to make less boost and retard timing.
Have about 10k miles on the current setup. Its a daily driver, if youre wondering why it isn't more extreme that's why. I love the car as a daily so much, it can't become a Sunday driver. I beat the ever living s*** out of it.

Absolutely drag cars on the street at a 40 roll. Hooks up like crazy! But never dig race for fear of breaking drivetrain stuff.

The failure mode here will be the open deck with no sleeves, next motor will be darton sleeved.
Would love to see dyne plots posted. We commonly did this in the early days of the Evora S and 400's. This Forum principal was to teach and improve the knowledge base for all owners.
 
#29 · (Edited)
How much does doing something like this cost?
That's a really loaded question, but not uncool to ask. A vast majority of the work was fabricating/wiring and if you paid a shop to do that, one off, it would be extraordinarily expensive.
In parts and supplies I would guess I spent maybe 12-16k? really did not keep track, and prices are all over the place right now with inflation and whatnot. 90% of this was done pre covid. Just the stainless parts alone I built the exhaust out of have tripled in price since then. Lots of reasons why its hard to even give a ballpark estimate. But I hope that is helpful.

Would love to see dyne plots posted. We commonly did this in the early days of the Evora S and 400's. This Forum principal was to teach and improve the knowledge base for all owners.
I will post those here. I could not find my copy of the printout, but I know they are on the dyno computer and will be at the shop Tuesday for another car anyway. I know the best dyno was 606 wheel before correction, 670 something after. But that was 40kpa less what I run now so interpret that as you may.
Does the wastegate just dump like that or do you have an actual pipe to dump it further out?
It does just dump like that. In the one photo it is missing its 4" or so exit pipe, but can be seen in others.

The headers and Y pipe hold the weight of the turbo system out on a decent lever arm, so minimizing the weight of the turbo system and keeping the weight as far forwards as possible were significant design constraints. merging the wastegate back to the primary exit will not give more performance, only add weight for the welds to hold.
Also it sounds so much cooler when it opens and gets much louder, as the sound reflects off the ground. It is all past the cockpit, and the wastegate is not open unless near target MAP, so carbon monoxide poisoning is not a concern.
You can see in the 2step video it is exiting under the car.
Very cool, awesome job OP! I am still processing some of the acronyms and terms OP used!
If anything I used can't be easily googled let me know so I can clarify!
 
#33 ·
First, awesome that somebody is really pushing an Evora. There's simply not enough data besides everyone doing these somewhat flaccid off the shelf tunes.

Second, I love that you're doing this on the stock transmission. There's so much fear about its strength, likely because of the clutch replacement effort. Instead, this will be a solid torture test of its internals.

Nice work!
 
#35 ·
@Starlight Very cool, I think this is the first a2a intercooler on an Evora I’ve seen. Is the intercooler really only taking airflow from the drivers side scoop? I know the Exige suffered from lack of airflow through the roof scoop, any info on IAT’s post intercooler on this setup? Thanks!