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Discussion Starter #21
Just received the news. The bracket pulley assembly needs to be replaced. $2200 from Lotus, $1789 from MWR
Total bill with towing $4569.
viper guy you mentioned changing some other police can you elaborate please since the back clam will be off
Well, the bracket is just 4 pulleys with 8 total bearings... If it's the upper ones they can remove and replace without doing anything more than pulling the tensioner back.(easy job through the wheel well) Should be a hour job to do. If they find zero damage, then the bracket needs to come out to get to the lower ones... This means the motor must be tilted. You do not need to remove the clam. Most important is having a competent mechanic to look the pulleys and bearings over as the reason they are advising to replace the entire assy. is the bearings are not the problem... it's the machining of the bracket.

You can go down the new bracket route... but having seen 2 of these things and the VERY POOR machining, you can toss 2k at you car every 2 years or overhaul the bearings and fuse/loctite 660 them and be done. All this for about $300 in materials.

There is a shop in Minnesota that will overhaul your pulleys for something like $75 ea.

In my case, it was the lower most rear pulley that had it's outer race spun in the pulley (poor pulley machining). New bearing and Loctite 660 and better then new. Other methods you could use would be to strike or fuse the race.
 

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Well, the bracket is just 4 pulleys with 8 total bearings... If it's the upper ones they can remove and replace without doing anything more than pulling the tensioner back.(easy job through the wheel well) Should be a hour job to do. If they find zero damage, then the bracket needs to come out to get to the lower ones... This means the motor must be tilted. You do not need to remove the clam. Most important is having a competent mechanic to look the pulleys and bearings over as the reason they are advising to replace the entire assy. is the bearings are not the problem... it's the machining of the bracket.

You can go down the new bracket route... but having seen 2 of these things and the VERY POOR machining, you can toss 2k at you car every 2 years or overhaul the bearings and fuse/loctite 660 them and be done. All this for about $300 in materials.

There is a shop in Minnesota that will overhaul your pulleys for something like $75 ea.

In my case, it was the lower most rear pulley that had it's outer race spun in the pulley (poor pulley machining). New bearing and Loctite 660 and better then new. Other methods you could use would be to strike or fuse the race.
Can you elaborate on the poor machining of the bracket? Do you have any photos?
 

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Update from my 2014 S
going forward with repair. I did order from MWR and saved about $325 on parts. After speaking to harrop directly I did order the nose cone upgrade with the 66mm pulley. it will add a little HP and there will not be any heat issues. If you go more extreme with this upgrade then yes the heat issue is real. This info came directly from Harrop tech as I do not always trust advice from companies that want to sell more parts. I will say MWR was very prompt and helpful and they did communicate with me which is way more than I can say for BOE. I have a cold air intake from BOE as well. my last dyno was 369 HP with 314 to the wheels so if I gain a little more safely then I am ok with that. I never intended this car to be a drag racer. This will be the largest repair bill since I purchased the car. I hope this is it for a while. many techs have told me that the 2014 models were very solid as it was the last year of the S. Here's hoping that is true.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Can you elaborate on the poor machining of the bracket? Do you have any photos?
On one bracket it was the diameter of the bearing supports (Bearing internal)... In the latest case it's one of the pulleys that was over honed. Just imagine going to press in a bearing and it drops in. Both had the low slow chirp... which once the bearings drag just slightly, they begin to spin. One case outer, other case inner. Hopefully they changed production, I would assume china made.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Update from my 2014 S
going forward with repair. I did order from MWR and saved about $325 on parts. After speaking to harrop directly I did order the nose cone upgrade with the 66mm pulley. it will add a little HP and there will not be any heat issues. If you go more extreme with this upgrade then yes the heat issue is real. This info came directly from Harrop tech as I do not always trust advice from companies that want to sell more parts. I will say MWR was very prompt and helpful and they did communicate with me which is way more than I can say for BOE. I have a cold air intake from BOE as well. my last dyno was 369 HP with 314 to the wheels so if I gain a little more safely then I am ok with that. I never intended this car to be a drag racer. This will be the largest repair bill since I purchased the car. I hope this is it for a while. many techs have told me that the 2014 models were very solid as it was the last year of the S. Here's hoping that is true.
Please post photos of the damage... did they confirm it was a lower pulley?
 

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was not the lower pulley. sorry i did not get any pics of damage. I was freaked out and wanted it fixed ASAP. I have had good service from Carlock motor cars in nashville. I did discuss replacing any other pulleys or parts and they did not recommend any. it is running good so I hope it is sorted for a good while. Now I am off to schedule a protective film for the front and top. Wish I could do the entire car but not looking to spend $6,000 right after spending $5k on this repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
was not the lower pulley. sorry i did not get any pics of damage. I was freaked out and wanted it fixed ASAP. I have had good service from Carlock motor cars in nashville. I did discuss replacing any other pulleys or parts and they did not recommend any. it is running good so I hope it is sorted for a good while. Now I am off to schedule a protective film for the front and top. Wish I could do the entire car but not looking to spend $6,000 right after spending $5k on this repair.
So what you're saying is they could have just made a $300 repair?
 

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NHguy
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My 2011 S had squeaky pulley when engine hot, and over 2k rpm. Car has 22k miles.
Good news is it was tensioner but also replaced 2 idler pulleys and serpentine belt. Used toyota parts and non lotus belt. Local foreign car mechanic did whole job, which included removal of alternator and ac compressor.....10 hrs labor, $1800 total. If you check evora labor manual, and calculate hours per step, estimate is around 10.7 hours.
Well, squeak is back (bird chirp), after only 200 miles since New Gates belt, toyota tensioner and 2 toyota idler pulleys installed. Had belt changed again (Gates), and again after around 150 miles, birds are back. This time, noise disappears after around 30 min drive. Could it be that Gates Toyota belt not precise fit? I'm using the gates cross reference belt for my 2011 evora S.
 

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It might be the other idlers near the supercharger pulley. I don't believe those are Toyota. You might be able to find alternatives based on the diameters listed.

1268881


1268880
 

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This thread is the first time I have seen this issue mentioned on our cars...
 

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NHguy
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It might be the other idlers near the supercharger pulley. I don't believe those are Toyota. You might be able to find alternatives based on the diameters listed.

View attachment 1268881

View attachment 1268880
What's strange is after replacing tensioner, and 2 idler pulleys and serpentine belt, chirping gone for 200 miles. If it were another pulley, logic says it would've been chirping immediately. Same thing happened after replacing serpentine belt the second time....all quiet for another 100+ miles, then chirp returns. That's why I'm questioning the Gates serpentine belt as an exact replacement for the lotus belt (I have no idea where lotus sources that).
 

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What's strange is after replacing tensioner, and 2 idler pulleys and serpentine belt, chirping gone for 200 miles. If it were another pulley, logic says it would've been chirping immediately. Same thing happened after replacing serpentine belt the second time....all quiet for another 100+ miles, then chirp returns. That's why I'm questioning the Gates serpentine belt as an exact replacement for the lotus belt (I have no idea where lotus sources that).
Is it a gatorback belt? It seems that for the 400+s they have moved to that type of belt from the standard due to squeaks
 

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Discussion Starter #35
By changing the tensioner, you may have put just a little pressure needed to stop the squeal until it broke in.. For my fix, the supercharger pulley was the smoking gun. and I had the chirp after driving 30 mins... everytime.
 

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NHguy
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By changing the tensioner, you may have put just a little pressure needed to stop the squeal until it broke in.. For my fix, the supercharger pulley was the smoking gun. and I had the chirp after driving 30 mins... everytime.
Interesting. In my case, the chirp stops after driving 30+ min. How did you address bad supercharger pulley? I didn't think that pulley was a replaceable part.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Interesting. In my case, the chirp stops after driving 30+ min. How did you address bad supercharger pulley? I didn't think that pulley was a replaceable part.
Sorry that should read supercharger bracket pulley... as detailed above.
 

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NHguy
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Thank you.
This is a confounding issue, of course!:)
Going with conventional advice on squeaky serpentine belt, I did the water spray test, and, it immediately stops squeaking for 10 secs then resumes. This according to many, indicates belt issue as opposed to bad pulleys. But, its a brand new belt, so wtf! So, I decided to try spraying 303 Aerospace protectant, and it did stop the squeak, but I'll see how long it lasts.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Thank you.
This is a confounding issue, of course!:)
Going with conventional advice on squeaky serpentine belt, I did the water spray test, and, it immediately stops squeaking for 10 secs then resumes. This according to many, indicates belt issue as opposed to bad pulleys. But, its a brand new belt, so wtf! So, I decided to try spraying 303 Aerospace protectant, and it did stop the squeak, but I'll see how long it lasts.
If it is new with new tensioner, then something is wrong. If any pulleys seem polished, you could scotchbrite them to add grip?
 

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NHguy
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Update...
Used 303 Aerospace protectant spray on the serpentine belt and so far no more squeak. I havev no idea why a new belt needed it, but it worked. No more chirping birds in the engine bay!
 
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