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I did 103 laps at Laguna Seca, and ~350 miles of street driving so far on the AD09. Stock Evora 400.

On track, they held up well. I could push for about half of a 20min session before getting a little greasy, but they never fell off a cliff and remained consistent (note: it was hot one day at Laguna with highs around 88-91F). I was experimenting with pressures and these seemed happy around 31F/33R hot. I was seeing too much rollover when I dropped the pressure much further, notably on the fronts.

Street manners are good so far. At freeway speed I don’t notice a significant change in cabin noise. I do notice the stiffer sidewall when going over expansion joints/sharp bumps in the road compared to PS4S.

I got a fresh alignment beforehand:
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I too was settling around 31/32, although with how quickly these come on I would be pushing early in a session while they were only up to ~27 psi, felt they could resist a lot of rollover (both by feel and lack of sidewall marks) even in some downhill hairpins. I want to blame the low stock camber limits and narrow-ish wheels here. Mines -2.6 up front + the BWR bar.

Surprisingly wide operating window though right?
 
Yup. Your cars are compromising with tire pressures for a lack of camber...
 
In my last track event I didn’t have a probe on me and didn’t think about the fact that my FLIR thermal cam (lightning connector) wouldn’t work with my iPhone 15 (usb-c), so I couldn’t validate lower pressures. By feel, I think these stiffer sidewalls with high 2 neg camber should handle lower pressures well. Curious to see at what point they stop seeing an ideal temp gradient.
 
Love the updates guys. I’m about ready to order these for my car.

Could you confirm: to get -2 or more negative camber, we need BWR control arms? Thinking ahead and what mods I need for a decent alignment.
1.2-1.4 degrees is the typical max you’ll see on stock hardware up front. Lowering the car may get you further because it’s camber-gaining, but there’s drawbacks. Working from stock, I personally think the BWR front UCAs + BWR ARB are the best suspension upgrades in terms of value.

The rears seem to max around 1.6-2.0, so if you do get the front UCAs and send it in for an alignment, I’d suggest having them max out the rear to equal values then setting the front based on the results. Depending on your balance preference, you can give them some relative value to shoot for up front.

I ran -2.5 up front with -1.8 in the rear before the back end UCAs were available. It was quite tail happy. For anyone stopping at front UCAs with the ARB, keeping the front/rear closer in sync and somewhere in the -1.8 to -2.0 range is still very street friendly but helps a lot on track.
 
Sorry guys all a bit off topic:

Zacho - what color is your Evora - it looks awsome.

I just ordered a set of these for my Lambo STO to be used for HoD Laguna Seca November 4-5. 4th set of tires for the car. It eats front tires. Happy to hear the positive results here. Trying to step out of the norm with that car and experiment with these A09's.
 
Just got the AD09 installed in my new BC wheels. My driver front tire is contacting the clam with the outer edge of the tire on decent bumps on the road. My OE with Cup2 and Braid wheels with Conti DW didn’t do this.

Hoping with the new upper control arms and negative camber will fix this.

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Just got the AD09 installed in my new BC wheels. My driver front tire is contacting the clam with the outer edge of the tire on decent bumps on the road. My OE with Cup2 and Braid wheels with Conti DW didn’t do this.

Hoping with the new upper control arms and negative camber will fix this.

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Same exact offset and tire size? I've found some tires actually measure differently even when listed as the same size. For instance, a 245 PS4S was actually a little wider than a 245 Firehawk Indy 500 in my experience.
 
Same tire size - all 3 are the 245/35-19 size.

The Braid BPF-04 wheels are the OEM GT430/GT sizing of 19x8 +55 offset. I’m pending confirmation from Sherman if the BC’s are the same but I believe they should be.

I think it might be just the manufacture size variances (overall diameter / tread width / section width):
Cup 2: 25.8/8.7/9.8
Conti: 25.8/8.5/9.8
AD09: 25.9/8.8/9.6

The larger size on the diameter and section width seem to be what’s impacting my car.

I’m hopeful that the upper control arms and aggressive alignment help remedy this. Otherwise will look into trimming the wheel well area for clearance.

Another note: my car was in a driver side accident so it’s possible the panel alignments are not to OE spec and causing my issues. The driver side wheel gap is smaller than the passenger side wheel gap.

For now - the Braid wheels will most likely go back on until I’m able to get the BWR pieces installed and the alignment performed.
 
I also hopped on the AD09 bandwaggon thanks to the positive reviews. Ran them at Summit Jefferson for TT, overall, pretty pleased with them. First day was a completely wet day, 2nd was dry. Had a lot more grip in them in the wet than i expected (but not as much as my street PS4S)...but I did have the occassional slide here or there but I did not push it at all.
2nd day was full on dry and time to go fast. I'll have to note that it was my first time with my ohlins and new tires set up so I was playing with dialing the settings in in the dry. Tires were very consistent, even with pushing, I did not lose confidence in them or feel much loss of control, they were very communicative but I didn't feel like I was totally pushing them to the limit. Of course I need a lot more time on them to fully get the feel and optimal utilization since I really only had 1 day on them but I think it can be a proper fast tire, if not, an exceptional HPDE/learn but go fast tire...they really do remind me of my RS4 tires on my 86 which would never wear lol.
Regardless, despite the adjusting to the new set up, I put down a 1:20.6 for my class which was only a second away from the class winner on proper comp tires (I believe A052s)...the all time class record is a 16...so I think it was respectable given what I was working with and the circumstances. I would very much recommend these to any non-competitive Evora

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Ran them for the first time today. They communicate a bit more than the eagle 3r. Still need to figure out pressures. Started at 28 cold and the fronts came up to 32 but rears were 36 and definitely could tell they had left the window.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
Ran them for the first time today. They communicate a bit more than the eagle 3r. Still need to figure out pressures. Started at 28 cold and the fronts came up to 32 but rears were 36 and definitely could tell they had left the window.
Any additional rubbing? The shoulders look more square.
Similar times or was track too cold?
 
Any additional rubbing? The shoulders look more square.
Similar times or was track too cold?
Not that I noticed but I'll report back when I swap wheels tomorrow.

With the temps being in the low-mid 40's (30's and lower the night before) I was able to get within 2 seconds of Eagle 3R's in 60-70 degree weather.

Overall these came into the temp window nicely and then did leave by the end of 25mins sessions. Seems to like pressures lower than I usually looked to get to so ended up starting at 25/26 psi and the window was a bit wider and longer. Even outside the window they gripped but you can just feel it sliding around more.

Curious to see how these do in warmer temps next season. I would say I like the Eagle 3R's more than these but those are so hard to get and pricier, so these could do the trick.
 
41 - 60 of 110 Posts