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Best replacement shocks under $1K?

15K views 64 replies 24 participants last post by  Parko  
#1 ·
#4 ·
What kind of driving are you going to do on them? Any aftermarket damper will yield a better ride on the street than the factory optioned LSS dampers. Most will yield a better ride than the factory base Bilstiens. The damper selection gets nuanced after that. Ohlins, Nitrons, etc. need to be maintained. It's probably best to have the oil changed and gas recharged every 3-5 years, depending on use.
 
#5 ·
I was looking at the Nitron Street Series 2, but the less maintenance they need, the better. I drive the car on weekends, on country roads, in the city on less than ideal pavement, occasional long distance road trips and 1-2 noncompetitive track days per year. I am mostly interested in reliability and ease of use. I don't need anything adjustable. I want something well-rounded, comfortable and capable. I'll take a look at the quantums.
 
#9 ·
This topic is a little strange to me, but maybe its because I've only ever been on stock suspension. In a car known for its handling, why keep the budget for a "handling item" low? Perhaps some people could chime in and state that any shocks are better than factory, but Lotus is kinda known for handling. I've seen factory setups going for more than $1k used.

My advice would be to either get your factory shocks rebuilt or replaced, or buy some "known good" aftermarket components.
 
#10 ·
In a car known for its handling, why keep the budget for a "handling item" low?
Because I am only looking to replace a blown shock. I don't really need upgraded performance, and I don't want to make huge financial investments in the car until it's paid off. I would be perfectly happy with the stock set up and would not be looking to upgrade if it wasn't a necessity.

Also, I believe the OEM shocks are sealed, and therefore not rebuildable, but I could mistaken.
 
#12 ·
I believe you're supposed to replace shocks in pairs, so that's $600+ and you're still running old shocks in the back. Add another $500 for Nitrons or Quantums and you're now running on a new and superior setup. Just my $.02

If cash is really tight then putting up a WTB post for used OEM coilovers would be another good option.
 
#13 ·
The Elise was a budget based car when designed. It needed to retail for 20,000 pounds or the project would be canceled, there is a great documentary how it saved the company and all the compromises that were taken to hit price point. Shocks are easy for the consumer to replace so Lotus put a budget shock on to get the cars on the road, created a strong aftermarket for a great selection of coil overs for those who want to make their cars handle...

I put a set of MCS single adjustable on my car:
Motion Control Suspension | Damper and Coilover Systems
I love the coil overs, but it's 3 times your budget. Better ride than the track pack Bilstien on the street, amazing on the track!

Want to buy the shocks I just pulled off?
 
#16 ·
I find the factory Bilsteins pretty jarring on public roads. I will likely pick up a set of nonadjustable Penskes from Fred at Black Watch Racing. Every indication is that I will get a more comfortable ride (she's my DD when the weather is decent) and better control and handling, so a win win. They are unfortunately more than twice your budget, but I am pretty sure I won't be looking to upgrade in a year or two, so I consider it a long term investment. From what I gather, upgrading shocks is the single best mod there is. Good luck with whatever you decide!
 
#19 ·
subscribed.
 
#24 ·
After having modified a few cars with really inexpensive shocks vs. spending a bit more for nicer ones, I think shocks are not a place to skimp. Not saying you have to buy the most expensive available, but good idea not to buy the lowest price ones you can find.
 
#33 ·
Yes.

Note that some (Penske, maybe others) need rebuilding every few yrs.
 
#25 ·
So, maybe some folks can elaborate a bit, as I've never purchase aftermarket coilovers for any of my previous cars. My knowledge is limited. What does the extra money really get you? Considering that I rarely drive my car on a track, and even then, not competitively.

So far, I'm seeing the following options:

Used OEM replacement from a generous forum member: $0 (I'm leaning this way, at least until next year).

Nitron Street Series 2 from Seriously Lotus: $1050

Quantums: ~$1100

Penske non-adjustable units from BWR: $2400
 
#34 · (Edited)
So, maybe some folks can elaborate a bit, as I've never purchase aftermarket coilovers for any of my previous cars. My knowledge is limited. What does the extra money really get you? Considering that I rarely drive my car on a track, and even then, not competitively.
Typically... higher priced dampers get you the following:

Piston options - common types of pistons include (but not limited to) linear/linear, high flow linear or digressive, digressive/linear, digressive/digressive, velocity dependent, regressive, etc.

Low friction guides, seals & piston bands - less friction equates to less hysteresis and more predictable damping. There will always be some friction associated with the motion of the shim stacks. Other sources of friction can be minimized.

Usable adjustment ranges - some cheap "adjustable" dampers don't actually do much adjusting. It can be a marketing knob or placebo knob. High quality dampers offer usable, often larger adjustment ranges.

Linear adjustment increments - So, you just bought a set of cheap 40 level adjustable dampers. Great! Unfortunately, 20 of the clicks don't do anything, 17 make small changes and 3 make huge changes. This can cause unpredictable adjustment results. Higher quality dampers typically feature consistent adjustments with each increment of the adjuster.

Upgradeable features - some damper manufacturers offer features "a la carte". Want a double adjustable bleed shaft? Done. Want 2 way adjustable compression reservoirs? Done. Want base valve adjustable compression damping? Sure thing. Of course, every option has an associated cost and not all options were created equal.

Service and Support - if/when you get serious about damper tuning, service and support are key. Whether you go the route of rebuilding or revalving dampers yourself or work with a vendor, getting the parts & results you need are key. Some manufacturers do not offer non standard valving, let alone body length modifications, custom perches, piston options and the service & testing that goes along with this work. Looking for the perfect blend of comfort & performance? A damper builder that is willing to work with you or one that has the relevant experience could lead to a worth while improvement to your chassis.

Many people are fine with stock-quality dampers. Many people are fine with cheap dampers that provide aesthetic improvements. I think you'll be hard pressed to find someone who has spent money on high-end shocks that will say it's not worth it.

Also, check out my shock dyno thread, if you're interested in some of the more technical differences in Lotus shocks.

Just my 2 cents.
 
#35 ·
#38 ·
Depending on how many miles you put on the car per year and the environment you drive in (salted roads, high corrosion areas, etc.), you might not need to rebuild them that often.

Rebuild typically consists of new o-rings, piston band inspection/replacement if needed, fresh oil, and workmanship dyno test after reassembly to make sure everything is as it should be and that all of the dampers match. I'd touch base with BWR for current Penske refresh costs... but my guess is ~$75 to $100 per corner, depending on what is needed.
 
#39 ·
On two previous toys I purchased suspensions that while not cheap (over $2K) weren't very good. I would advise you to research twice (or thrice) and purchase once.

I am in no way trying to persuade you into spending a lot of money on a suspension, but honestly going cheap can cost you more in the long run. By the time I remedied the suspensions I purchased on my two previous toys I spent around $4K for each one. If I'd have bought the proper suspension I'd have cut my costs in half.

I bought the BWR Penske DAs when they first came out. They weren't cheap, but given the initial price they were a bargain. Easily one of the best mods I've done. Firmer yet more comfortable than the Nitron singles that were about half the spring rate of the Penskes. One thing you need to consider is the resale value. I've seen used Penskes that sell for about new prices.

I'd stay away from anything that came on a stock Elige, no matter what brand (Bilstien, Ohlins, etc). Look for reviews from reputable forum members. There are plenty here who know what they're talking about.

Personally, I'd take the offer you have for a free set of known good shocks near you and see if they are satisfactory. You might just be happy with them and then can take your time going with a better suspension if they don't float your boat.

Good luck and let us know what you wind up with.

San
 
#43 ·
Just ordered a set of Nitron Street Series from Seriously Lotus. $1,002.87 to North Carolina.

Replacing the Nitron Race 46mm as we move the Elise from track duty back to streetability.