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Help! Looking into purchasing 83' Esprit, seller says all it needs is carb tuning

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94 views 5 replies 6 participants last post by  Psychonaut  
#1 ·
Hello All,

Hoping to make a formal introduction soon, looking at an Esprit that popped up near by. Engine runs but poorly, seller claims all it needs is a carb tuning. It was stored at sea level, and now is 5000 feet up, perhaps just new idle jets? It didnt get smoother at higher revs. Im new to these cars and am unsure if what he says is true - would any experts here have any input from this brief video?

 
#3 ·
There are a lot of things that could be wrong. We encountered several of them when Jenna bought her car.

She documented EVERYTHING so that Topic is long, but if you have the time, save the pertinent posts about her carbs.


@Esprit2 (Tim Engel) is the expert on the carbureted cars. Haven't seen him on here lately, but try FaceBook


Is the Esprit in Utah as the license plate indicates? If so the local chapter of Lotus, Ltd: Utah Lotus Owners Coalition would be able to help. Rich S is a longtime owner of a carb'ed Esprit. I bet he has a 4-port manometer, which is how you should be setting the mixture(s) anyway, instead of just twisting the screws... :rolleyes:


RICH SHEYA

rsheya@canyonheating.com

801-971-0956
 
#4 ·
Carb tuning means it coudl be running lean on one cylinder and the engine is toast
Just saying.
A lot of these vintage[carbed turbo Esprit] suffered from delayed maintenance and lost a piston
Not at all saying not to buy, but buyer beware
 
#5 ·
Well, you won't damage the carbs by revving it.

You need three things for a car to run - air, spark and fuel.

This car used to have an air injection system and a catalytic converter to help clean up the exhaust. It also had a vacuum actuated flap in the intake runner to keep gas from evaporating into the atmosphere. The air pump, injection manifold, and associated bits have been removed, as has the vacuum actuator on the intake runner. One would hope that whoever deleted that stuff also removed the little aluminum flap inside the intake runner. Easy enough to check, but if it is there, it really restricts air into engine.

Spark is also easy to check, especially since the air injector pump has been removed. An easy first check is to put a timing light on each spark plug lead and see if they are all firing without misses. If they aren't all firing consistently, that is part one of the problem. If they are you can climb into the trunk and check the timing mark on the flywheel to see where it is on timing, and if it is advancing as the car revs. There is a vacuum advance on the distributor, so any leaks in that system will impact driveability. There are a number of hoses and electrically activated vacuum valves under the plenum that manage warmup and timing under boost, so checking all that out is a good idea. The actuator on the distributor can leak as well.

You say that the car was stored - for how long? How often was the car driven before it was stored? Carbs that are repeatedly filled with gas that is then allowed to evaporate will varnish up over time. This varnish plugs jets and passageways, leading to poor running. You can access most of the jets by taking the little covers off of the tops of the carbs. You have to remove the balance tubes first. If it looks brownish, or white crusty bits, or you can't (gently - very gently) unscrew the emulsion tubes, the carbs need at least to be cleaned and probably refreshed. Fiddling with carb adjustments without a manometer isn't tuning the carbs, it's just fiddling with the carbs - particularly if the carbs are varnished up. There are Very Few people who can tune 4 carb throats by ear, and if this guy was one of them, the carbs would be tuned.

Essentially, the car needs a complete tuneup as a starting point. And a compression test.