I ended up picking up a less expensive 2011 evora S. The car did have a Salvage title with the story of no frame damage just panels from a side swipe on the drivers side. Car had 12,000 total miles. Thinking this car was totaled sat forever and then pieced back together. After pulling history car was new in 2011. In 2012 it had a savage title assigned. From there all reports of mileage grew slowly over the years and the owner stayed the same from new till early this year. This changed my mind on considering purchase. Talked with the current owner and came to a price, knowing the wheels were tweaked and list of minor cosmetic issues. The car was 800 miles away but close to my brother so I sent my brother the money and he drove to look at it. It looked as advertised so he picked it up and drove it home. My thought was to go up there and drive it back but chickened out and had it shipped. Glad I did because the noise from the right bent wheel would have been miserable for a 10 hour drive. Once I got it here I drove it for a couple of days and of course like it. Once I got the state inspection on it decided to get the wheels fixed and do a good inspection. So far everything looks good just running into 10 years of poor maintenance. I do see the glass repairs where they say. The damage occured with no signs of structure damage.
My Evora S project
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Grady
81 - 100 of 170 Posts
Had the dreaded bearing squeal. Was thinking with all the pulleys off could find the culprit however all of them feel fine. Decided to just replace all the bearings since they are all accessible. Pressed or drove all of them out. For reference the bearings are 2) Koyo 6302-RMX, 6) 6203-2RS, 4) 6004-2RS.
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252 Posts
I"m assuming the 4 pulleys grouped together are the ones off the top bracket / plate, where are the other 3 from? I know there are two idler pulleys on NA cars, is the third of the SC cars?
Supercharger bracket has 4 pulleys, each one takes one 6203, and one 6004. Marked B
Groved pulley on top larger pulley next to it and the 2 small ones on the bottom.
The 2 idler pulleys take one 6302 marked I
The tensioner pulley takes 2 6203 marked T. It also has a pressed bushing internal and the bolt is left threaded.
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Groved pulley on top larger pulley next to it and the 2 small ones on the bottom.
The 2 idler pulleys take one 6302 marked I
The tensioner pulley takes 2 6203 marked T. It also has a pressed bushing internal and the bolt is left threaded.
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252 Posts
very helpful, thank you.
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4,533 Posts
Is that the same color as the body? That's going to look awesome!
It is Duplicolor Metalcast red. It is real close to the same as the body color.
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1,125 Posts
What did you use to smoke them? VHT Nightshade paint? Looks good.
The GRP lens I got was glued all the way around and I was able separate the lens from the backing from one but broke the other. Then I tried to carefully cut a hole into the other, but there wasn't any clearance between the clear lens and the backing. Then I tried to order another set and found that they no longer have a right and left set anymore. How did you add the LED to your GRP lens? I gave up and just smoked my original orange and red lenses.
Vinyl tint.
Cut just the LED assembly out of the factory light. Then cut a square opening in the back of the GRP assembly and bonded them together.
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1,125 Posts
Thanks for the reply! I did that on my OEM fronts but couldn't get it perfect, vinyl kept lifting a bit on the edges. Maybe I'm just not good with vinyl wrapping.
You did a very good job cutting just the backing on the GRP assembly! There wasn't much of a clearance and I was going slow on the hole saw, but ended up nicking the clear lens part and it showed through to the front side. Your finished lens lighting looks great!
Since my car is black, I just resorted to smoking out the OEM lenses by spraying them with Rust-Oleum Peel Coat Lens Tint . . . gets darker with each layer you spray on.
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Since my car is black, I just resorted to smoking out the OEM lenses by spraying them with Rust-Oleum Peel Coat Lens Tint . . . gets darker with each layer you spray on.
Mine are lifting a little. If they do not behave I will be redoing it and if no success, it will be spraying.
Dremel with a cut off wheel, melted through 90% or so then breaking out. Yes it is close and you have to be careful.
Well after a long delay my block is finally back! It took way too long but still glad I did not exchange the block since this one only has 14K miles on it. Now I have the pistons back and can get the crank balanced. Then it is time for reassembly!!!!!
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