I ended up picking up a less expensive 2011 evora S. The car did have a Salvage title with the story of no frame damage just panels from a side swipe on the drivers side. Car had 12,000 total miles. Thinking this car was totaled sat forever and then pieced back together. After pulling history car was new in 2011. In 2012 it had a savage title assigned. From there all reports of mileage grew slowly over the years and the owner stayed the same from new till early this year. This changed my mind on considering purchase. Talked with the current owner and came to a price, knowing the wheels were tweaked and list of minor cosmetic issues. The car was 800 miles away but close to my brother so I sent my brother the money and he drove to look at it. It looked as advertised so he picked it up and drove it home. My thought was to go up there and drive it back but chickened out and had it shipped. Glad I did because the noise from the right bent wheel would have been miserable for a 10 hour drive. Once I got it here I drove it for a couple of days and of course like it. Once I got the state inspection on it decided to get the wheels fixed and do a good inspection. So far everything looks good just running into 10 years of poor maintenance. I do see the glass repairs where they say. The damage occured with no signs of structure damage.
My Evora S project
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Grady
61 - 80 of 170 Posts
Well after a summer of 100+ temperatures, Daughter wedding, Daughter off to college, moving girlfriend, I found some time to finaly pull the engine! Now the fun part of disassembly and upgrades.
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No going back now. I will have to say this engine was a little intimidating to start. I have only done an old 351 Windsor, a couple of overhead cam motorcycle engines and a bunch of aircraft engines. Going the smart route of take a component off and put every fastener in a bag and attach it to the part.
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I kinda feel guilty now tearing the engine down. The car had a hard life and always wondered if the milage was accurate. Well in disassembly of the engine it does look like it only has 13K miles. Cam chain tensioner was still on the first click. The babbitt bearings are still 100%. Absolutely no ring ridge on the cylinder. The clutch was needing to be changed and getting better gears in the transmission was a must while it was out.
Apologize for the excessive engine porn posting. 😂
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Apologize for the excessive engine porn posting. 😂
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4,534 Posts
Don't apologize, please post more! I'll probably never see the internals of mine (at least I hope not to) so its great to see the inside of one. Thanks for sharing them
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4,179 Posts
Are you planning on doing the Wilhelm manifold porting while it's apart?
Never saw that thread before but yes I have seen the injector boss fix. Biggest thing to remember is porting is about airflow not size.
That is the intake side so a long time. a smooth surface has less imperfections for things to stick to. However it is more about the shape and not the surface finish.
You are sanding this area in red right? Do you know why the engine has these bulges/holes. I too would sand these out if there is no reason for these bulges to exist. I would imagine better air flow without the bulges.
You taking like this? Those bulges are there because that is where the injectors are and you can not cast a sharp edge like you end up with when you grind them down.
Done with lapping the valves into the first head. Hoping to finish up building up both heads this weekend. Then it is time to get into the transmission for LSD,MWR gear set and fork pads.
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4,179 Posts
If you're doing this work yourself and don't mind photo documenting it, I'd greatly appreciate it when the time comes for me to do a clutch job. Was planning on these changes at the same time too.
After a couple of weeks of being worried, transmission is apart. Got it separated about an inch and everything locked up. Could not get apart or back together. One of the shaft bearings locked up in the upper housing. Got it to let loose today. Glad I got the brass fork pads, a couple were damaged and one was already missing.
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1,774 Posts
I have a trans case stuck the same way. What did you have to try and get loose?
What shaft is stuck? All 3 need to stay in the base. Mine was the 3rd and 4th driven shaft. It lifted out of the lower bearing the the upper bearing cocked and got stuck. I just had to keep pressure on the upper case and keep rocking it back and forth. I used wooden hammer handles a large wooden dowel and a pickle fork. You did get the 2 snap rings behind the large plug on the top housing?
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1,774 Posts
I remember messing with the snap rings but its been awhile thanks for the tips.
Was able to get all the MWR gears and diff cones installed last night. For reassembly defiantly need dry ice and a oven for the end bearings and the sync gears. This is a nerve racking assembly doing it the first time knowing that a mistake could cost you at least a weeks worth of work.
Now working on breakaway torque on the diff bearings. I do have a preload and it takes about 28 in lbs to break it loose. Anyone Know the preload settings for the Diff?
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Now working on breakaway torque on the diff bearings. I do have a preload and it takes about 28 in lbs to break it loose. Anyone Know the preload settings for the Diff?
Success everything is checking good by hand as far as shifting and everything. I switched over to Hylamar for the assembly. Also cut out just under 1/2 inch from the shifter arm to shorten the throw. Have not run a bead in well over 6 years so had to hide my weld. It Is not coming apart but does not look good.
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It Is not coming apart but does not look good. 61 - 80 of 170 Posts
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