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ok, I'm going to order pads to have them on the ready.
Is it ok to have Orange/Yellow up front and stock pads on rear until they need replacing?
 
Did some pretty spirited mountain driving today with 3 other Evora's. About 200 miles total. So far extremely pleased with these EBC Orange pads. Very confident bite. No squealing or other noise so far.
Pict was taken on road to Cripple Creek & Victor, CO. Just a bit SW of Pikes Peak at about 9940 Ft ASL.
Here's coordinates if interested: 38.7811, -105.1229
What a spectacular drive with great people and great cars!

View attachment 1287121
I miss those LOCO drives. It's been almost 40 years since my last one. Hope to get back there again soon.
 
I had an issue for the first time in years with the Rear EBC orange stuff pads a few weeks back. I went thru a substrate buildup on the rotor phase. I think I finally got it burned off but it was 100% the rears, major pulsing for a while seemingly early mid cycle when high temps were not yet there but definitely not cool. Unfortunately, car is getting refreshed so I will have to wait. I have a brand new set of front and rears waiting to got o work. If it occurs again I will go back to my tried and true DTC 70's. I will cross reference the EBC pad size so I can finally get DTC70's for the rear with my Ultradiscs.
FWIW - I've used EBC yellow - seemed very similar to stock. Switched to EBC blue - last longer, maybe less bite until hot - firmer pedal feel. No squealing from any of them - use the paste.

My wheel bolts never seem to have backed off. I check them after the wheel has cooled and not immediately after getting off the track - if I do that they will often be a little lose but that is bad procedure to torque the wheels while everything is super hot.
Boy is that a debatable topic! I followed that mentality once and ended up with 2 snapped lugs from loose wheels..... Hot they weren't even close to tight. My compromise is to start esp rears at 90ft-lbs, and make sure they are at 80 hot. No problems since. Engineer taught me this.Street values are for street heat levels. If wheels operating hot, ..........
 
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My compromise is to start esp rears at 90ft-lbs, and make sure they are at 80 hot. No problems since. Engineer taught me this.Street values are for street heat levels. If wheels operating hot, ..........
Wait, your torquing much higher than the 77.5 ft lb spec? I’ve torqued to spec and had no issue and no loss of torque. I am running the black HethelSport lugs without that floating collar.
 
If I start with the rear TD wheels at anything less than 90ft-lbs, the wheels nuts are LOOSE at the end of the first session. Front s have never been quite as bad. I can start day cold 85 ft-lbs and at end of 1st session hot, have to do a minor retorque. I HAVE NEVER POPPED A LUG TORQUED HOT. I have broken several lugs with only cold torque because wheels get loose. Have changed lugs every few years, Blackwatch, no change. Not as much of an issue with Lotus wheels but it still happens. I also heat up tires enough to start at 24 psi and end at 32-34 psi days, track dependent. My engineer friend has always taught me to torque at the temp I operate at.
 
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Yellowstuff front pads lost thier stopping power at last track day I just replaced them with bluestuff kind of wish I went straight to oranges but ill see how the blues do. Love how easy a brake job is. Have not replaced rotors yet that will be next.
 
Are you guys lightly sanding down the rotors between different pad compounds?
I started to on outside of one rotor with a 100 grit sanding sponge but it did not seem to remove or smooth out the lines on the rotor at all so I didn't continue to do the other rotors it was also a personal test to see if I felt good about it as I will be replacing the rotors in the near future anyways and wanted to see how I would do things. I am definitely open to your thoughts if its really necessary. I read some info that suggested new pads would get rid of deposits or using hawk blue track pads to clean up rotor surface.

This is how my front rotors looked before changing the yellowstuff pads

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How they look after a few heavy braking sessions and cooling down on the bluestuff pads

1287240


Not experiencing any shaking and they are braking harder than the yellows so far. The rear rotors look smooth and consistent but the pads also didn't look abused like the fronts
 
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I have seen people just do a light sanding so a new pad compound can create it's own layer/coating. There are stories of the previous pads deposits don't play well with a new compound.
 
BTW, I always used to poke a nail thru all the drill holes after track days. Amazing how much stuff was in there!!!
 
Is that a drill attachment looks great id like to do something like that next time what all do I need?


 
Damn, I can add my experience here too.

Yellowstuff is a great street pad, but I absolutely ruined them after a single track day. Pad was falling apart, and lost all bite.

I also wish I had jumped straight to Orange stuff, but as a Hawk guy generally, I'm debating DTC70 vs Orange stuff. I'm liking the reports of Orange being okay on the street, since I do street drive my Evora mostly.

How's the cold bite on Orangestuff?
 
Bluestuff held up fine at VIR but I was in heavy traffic most of it so I cannot attest to how they are holding up over yellows other than the confidence in them is higher. Once I get to a private event with little traffic I will know more...
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
I'm looking to have mine out on track on Friday, June 4th. This will be my first track day with the new Orange pads. I'll report back then. Still great on the road. Brake dust is about the same, maybe slightly less, than the stock pads which is refreshing. I do like a clean car. :geek:
 
I'm looking to have mine out on track on Friday, June 4th. This will be my first track day with the new Orange pads. I'll report back then. Still great on the road. Brake dust is about the same, maybe slightly less, than the stock pads which is refreshing. I do like a clean car. :geek:
Apparently stock is low, but GRP just got at least my fronts. I’ll be right behind you if I get my transmission sorted out.
 
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