Mobil 1 is what is recommended for the motor and no one has had any problems with it. If you have noisy lifters (in the V-8) you might want to use a can of flush just before you change your oil. My car would make a LOT of noise for a while till it got really hot. It took flushing it twice before 2 oil changes and now it is quiet even when cold. Techron is good to use once in a while in the fuel to clean the fuel injectors but you should not have to use it often. Modern fuel has cleaners already in it but for them to work you have to use the car regularly. For the transmission use Redline MT-90. It doesn't have to be changed often but you do need to make sure the level is kept up. You should not need any additives for the cooling system. The coolant should be checked annually for strength and PH and replaced every 5 years. The brake and clutch hydraulics should be flushed and filled with fresh fluid annually with Castrol DOT 4.
David Teitelbaum

 

The oil requirements are somewhat different between 4 cylinder cars and V8s. EG, the older flat-tappet 4-cyl engines can benefit from a ZDDP additive now that modern SN oils don't contain as much as needed.

@Mtschebaum, you should state your model and year Esprit in your signature...makes it easier to give you the proper advice!

 

In a post in another thread it mentions he has an '04 which would mean he has the V-8. It would be better if he put the car type in his header though. Yes, the 4 cyl cars should use a ZDDP additive BUT. From experience it seems if you have an older motor that was broken in on the older oils with the higher levels of ZDDP the metal gets "conditioned" and you can be OK on oil now with lower levels. Whatever you do you need to be aware levels of too much ZDDP can be bad. That means if you use a racing oil or an oil meant for diesels with high levels of ZDDP already in it, adding more can be bad.
David Teitelbaum

 

^^ David is absolutely correct. Myself, I've only used the ZDDP additive once since SN oils came out (5 years).

GM debunks ZDDP myths for flat tappet cams| Bob Is The Oil Guy

Anyway, I'm sure you can find a good oil for the V8 engine.

Brand is not as important as characteristics. Read BobistheOilGuy.com for oil analysis.

 

GM debunks ZDDP myths for flat tappet cams

Interesting. GM was a major force behind API SE (1000ppm phosphorus), and used it from 1971-1980. However cam/ tappet wear protection proved inadequate, resulting in excessive/ expensive warranty claim rates for GM. This was a major motivation for SF, and again, GM was a major 'push' behind SF.

1980-88 -- API SF increased phosphorus content to 0.12% to 0.15% (1200-1500ppm)... the highest level ever approved by the API.

So, now again, it's GM 'debunking the myth' that low ZDDP oils are not safe for vintage engines. I find that curious. Short memories, or ulterior motives... one or the other.

I was in the oil business back then (4 1/2 years as a Lubrication Engineer at Texaco), and I remember the flap over GM's engine failures. On the side/ on the down-low, Texaco advised fleet and private owners of GM engines to use other oils in their product line that had higher ZDDP levels.

Regards,
Tim Engel
Lotus Owners Oftha North (LOON)

 

The 918 might be the newest Esprit engine, but it was still an old-school, flat-tappet design. That, and the engine's general metallurgy and design make it an engine that requires more ZDDP rather than less.

And like every Lotus engine prior to the current Toyotas, the main and rod bearings have wide clearances. They depend upon a high viscosity oil, and an oil pump that delivers high flow volume at modest pressure.

Mandated requirements are driving modern engines toward higher efficiency, which puts more emphasis on thinner, low viscosity oils which force tighter bearing clearances and high oil pressures at modest flow rates. The opposite of the Lotus bearing designs.

The thin, low viscosity oils that work in your modern daily driver are not right for your vintage Lotus... including all models of the Esprit.

Around 2005 (??) Lotus issued a letter (not a TSB) recommending oils for the recent-old models, including the eary Elise/ Exige, 9XX 4-cylinders, and 918 V8. The 9XX & V8 were lumped together under one recommendation.

They wrote:
"In all cases, the oil quality grades which should be met are either European standard ACEA A3, American standard API SL/CF, SJ/CF, or international standard ILSAC GF-3. Check that this is printed on the oil container."

SG, SH, and SJ are older API ratings from the days of higher ZDDP levels. Oils that claim to meet one or more of those ratings would be worth considering for use in a vintage flat-tappet cam engine.

And Lotus recommended just two specific oils:
" Lotus specifically recommends Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W/50, and Castrol Formula RS 10W/60."

Neither of which are still in production, but their mention gives a clue as to Lotus' prefered viscosities.

The Castrol oil has morphed several times, taking a slightly different name each time. The last time I checked, it was "Castrol TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil". Even if the name has changed again since then, the BMW house-brand oil that is required for their M-series engines is a private label copy of that Castrol oil. You can buy it at your local BMW dealership.

Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W/50 is out of production, and anything with 'Motorsport' in the name now is NOT the same stuff. The current regular Mobil 1 15W50 (in North America) contains 1200ppm Phosphorus (the anti-wear element you should care about), and 1300ppm zinc (it just goes along for the ride). IMHO, 1200 Phos is the minimum that should be targeted for any Esprit (Europa, Elan, Elite, Seven) after the engine has been broken in on a higher ZDDP oil.

Mobil 1 0W50 Racing Oil, and Mobil 1 20W50 V-Twin Motorcycle Oil are both high ZDDP synthetics in Lotus' recommended viscosity range. The motorcycle oil is the same old Mobil 1 20W50 Lotus recommended back in the day, but it contains more ZDDP than the API allows now, so it can't be certified as an automotive oil. So Mobil 1 just re-branded it as a motorcycle oil. It's the same great stuff, and Lotus engines do quite well on it.

The same applies to Amsoil, Brad-Penn, Redline, Valvoline VR1, etc... high ZDDP oils that are not API certified, but are very good for vintage Lotus engines.

A true racing oil is meant to be changed after every event, and doesn't contain the street additive package. As such, it should be changed every 500 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. The Mobil 1 Racing Oil (and Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil) contain a full street additive package, and support a normal street oil change interval.

.Phos. / Zinc Current motor oils with high ZDDP levels:
2400p / 2500z Redline Racing Motor Oils (typical, “all have a min. of 2200 ppm Phos”)
2100p / 2500z Redline Motorcycle Oils
1750p / 1850z Mobil 1 0W-50 Racing Oil (street additive package).
1600p / 1700z Mobil 1 20W-50 -- old, discontinued, now called…
Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin Motorcycle Oil (same good stuff)
1600p / 1700z Classic Car Motor Oil -- Classic Car Motor Oil

API SF, 1980-88, permitted highest ZDDP levels ever API-specifed, (1200-1500ppm phosphorus)

1400p / 1500z Brad Penn®, Penn Grade 1 Hi-Perf Oils
1300p / 1400z Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil (mineral oil), API SF/CD.
1266p / 1379z Amsoil HDD Series 3000 Synthetic 5W-30, combined Diesel / Gasoline.
1266p / 1379z Amsoil ARO 20W-50 Synthetic, for API SL/ CI-4 Plus
1265p / 1378z Amsoil AMO 10W-40 Synthetic, for API SL/ CI-4 Plus
1235p / 1370z Amsoil TRO 20W-*50 Synthetic Racing Oil, gasoline hotrod, race, big cam

1200p / 1300z Mobil 1 15W-50 (current North American retail)

API SN “allows” but does not mandate 1200p / 1300z for SAE 40 and heavier oils. Many of those SAE 40 and over oils contain only 1000p, and nothing on the label identifies them.

Regards,
Tim Engel
Lotus Owners Oftha North (LOON)

 

Great write up Esprit2. I have found that even the regular Mobil 1 15W-50 is getting harder to find. I used to get it at the local Advance Auto, but they never have it anylonger. I've resorted to sourcing it off eBay.

 

? Strange. I have no trouble finding Mobil 1 15W50 it in auto parts stores near me.

Regards,
Tim Engel
Lotus Owners Oftha North (LOON)

 

Strange indeed. Last time I was looking I couldnt find it anywhere locally and my AA said they didnt stock it anymore so I ended up getting several cases from eBay.
Checked today and sure enough there it is on the shelf in Advance Auto again. Go figure.

 

Great responses Tim. Which oil would you go with between the Mobil 1 15-50 or the vtwin Mobil 1 20-50?

Thanks. Jason


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App

 

Which oil would you go with between the Mobil 1 15-50 or the vtwin Mobil 1 20-50?

I use the 20W50 V-Twin Motorcycle oil during the driving season. By the time it gets cold enough outside that the 20W part is marginal, most Lotus cars are in Winter storage. And when it is too cold for 20W, 15W isn't better by a large enough margin to make a difference.

I live where Winters are 'cold', and I don't have a heated garage. So I usually change to a 5W50 or 0W50 just before putting the car away for the Winter. That way, if something happens during the Winter that forces me to move the car, the engine turns over without a problem.

When the driving season resumes in the Spring, but mornings are still cold, the 0W / 5W oil is adequate for street driving. But switch back to the 20W50 V-Twin before getting into any spirited driving, track days, or motorsports.

Unless you use Mobil 1 0W50 Racing Oil, which is easy starting on cold mornings, 50 wt when the engine is up to temp, Hi-ZDDP to protect your engine, and has a full street additive package. A true multi-season performance oil.

Regards,
Tim Engel

 

The answer to the question of best motor oil is right next to the question of what's the best religion. Like others have said, as long as it has decent ZDDP content, you'll be ok.

I personally drank the Kool-Aid and like Red line fluids

 

For the V8 I'm pretty sure the latest grade recommendation by Lotus for all climates is 5W50.

 

Magnets

Tim, thanks for an excellent discussion of oil. The comments about racing oil or diesel are spot on. I've been called a mad scientist when I've told others about adding a quart of the diesel oil in a gas engine. I run an F2000 in the SCCA, so I've been studying oil for years.....and running a FilterMag on the outside of the oil filter. I'm new to my '97. A question.......the 918 is all aluminum I read......even the bearings are aluminum?......doubt that.....so I guess the use of a FilterMag on my '97 Esprit might be accomplishing something or am I wrong?.....a Mobil 1 oil filter of course.....but would the magnet on the outside of the filter really end up holding much that the filter had not stopped because it was ferric? It won't hurt of course......but the magnet on the Ford 2000 engine is a nice extra touch......sawing it open showed it did stop something.

 

The idea of using a magnet to capture ferrous metal circulating in the oil is a great idea but it has to be done properly. Sticking a magnet on the side of an oil filter is not the best way. First of all the case of the filter is steel and will absorb most of the magnetic field preventing it from penetrating into the filter. Secondly the oil is flowing quickly inside the filter so even if you do manage to trap some, the rest will get washed away by the flow. The place to put a magnet is in the pan where the oil is not as turbulent. Either a magnet in the pan or a magnet on the drain plug. The filter is supposed to trap even ferrous particles of a certain size. While it is true smaller ones will get past the filter, they are so small as to not be of concern. The amount of ferrous particles is rather small anyway. You will always see a larger portion of the suspended solids being non-ferrous, mostly from the bearings. When you start to see a lot of ferrous particles in the oil, failure is imminent. Like most items being peddled, if they worked as good as they claim, the manufacturers of the motors would use them. How come you don't see oil filters being sold with magnets inside? If you are concerned about the particle load in your oil just change it frequently and/or have an oil analysis done regularly.
David Teitelbaum

 

I agree with what David said, I always change all the fluids and tune up components when I buy a used vehicle, and the only vehicle (dare I say this) I have ever had a catastrophic internal engine failure with was a Saab 900 Turbo convertible, when I bought it there was alot of ferrous metal particles in the pan of the used oil, it didnt go much longer til a replacement engine was needed. I always am super inquisitive about what comes out in the change pan of everything I replace the oil in.

Of course there was this Briggs and Stratton Pressure washer I had that I completely neglected and never changed the oil or checked it. You know that thing seized in the cylinder. A guy I know swears by Marvel Mys. Oil and he is a B n G guru, he said soak it overnight, I did, then I had to take the cylinder head off and tap the piston free, it came free rather easily, and that thing ran for three more years til the pump went out on it. I have since used MMO a few times.

 

Dang, wish I had seen this thread before I just did my last oil change on the 2003 V8. Used Mobil-1 5w50 as specified in the Esprit owner's manual, and which I went out of my way to find because it's not available locally.

Don't think she will automatically self destruct any time soon (per Mobil spec sheet their 5w50 is 1000/1100ppm Phosphorous/Zinc content ) but I will probably accelerate the next change and switch to Mobil-1 15w50 for the higher 1200/1300ppm P/Zn content as a hedge against engine wear.

In the meantime might even give one of these a try (note: the Hy-Lube is a non-Zinc alternative):

https://www.hyperlube.com/pro

https://www.amazon.com/Rislone-4405-Supplement-Concentrate-Treatment/dp/B0075559UY

https://www.amazon.com/Hy-Lube-Zinc-Replacement-Additive/dp/B002C6E0VU

Would be tempted to use Mobil-1 20w50 V-Twin Motorcycle oil (i.e. the rebranded older 20w50 Motorsport) but am hesitant in exposing the cats to excessive P/Zn levels. Plus it falls outside Lotus recommendation of <=15w as the max for cold weather viscosity. So 15w50 seems to be a reasonable middle road approach.

Maintenance records that came with my Esprit indicated she was previously serviced with Brad Penn oil which has the higher P/Zn levels, guess now I know why.

Ordered a Blackstone test kit, which I'll submit a sample from the recent oil change to get a baseline. Thanks to all for the great discussion and information. Any updates or other viewpoints are encouraged.

Also does anyone have a link to the Lotus TSB (~2004 or 2005?) concerning their updated oil recommendations?

 

Just for the record, I use Motul 5w40 8100 x-cess in my v8 tt, I order from Amazon and keep in stock in the garage. It has all the properties needed in these engines. Food for thought

 

I would not be overly concerned about the ZDDP content in the oil. Prevailing wisdom is that once you have broken in the motor on a ZDDP rich oil, it is not as important in subsequent oil changes. Adding supplemental ZDDP can result in too much or not enough, you really should know what it is before you add so you add just the right amount. Since most of us are not chemists, you should refrain from mixing additives. Too much of a good thing is not good. If the manufacturers do not endorse additives, that should tell you something. If you feel the need to use a ZDDP rich oil then just buy it like the "off road", racing, or motorcycle oils.
David Teitelbaum

 

I would not be overly concerned about the ZDDP content in the oil. Prevailing wisdom is that once you have broken in the motor on a ZDDP rich oil, it is not as important in subsequent oil changes.

If you have a Lotus 900 Series engine, including the 918 V8, then you 'should' be concerned about keeping the ZDDP level above a minimum. Correct that... the "Phosphorus" level. IMHO, 1200ppm phosphorus should be the minimum you put in your 9XX... 907 to 918. And since phosphorus is only one element in a complex ZDDP molecule, it takes more than 1200ppm ZDDP to deliver 1200ppm phosphorus. Companies or individuals who only talk about "ZDDP" or "zinc" are skirting the topic. "Phosphorus" is the antiwear agent that 's on the table, and you need to know how much of it is in an oil before deciding if that's the oil you want to use. And you (should) want 1200ppm phosphorus or more.

It's not a matter of a new engine using 1200ppm during break-in, then dropping to a lower level after break-in. 1200ppm phosphorus is the norm full time, and something higher would be good during break-in. That's why a 'break-in' oil is special, it's not the norm.. Yes, you can drop to a lower 'phosphorus' level after the engine is well broken-in, but only if you started at a higher level to begin with.

So, how much phosphorus is required for 'normal'? IMHO, I won't put less than 1200ppm phosphorus in to a vintage (pre-Toyota, Elise, Exige, Evora) Lotus engine (Seven thru Esprit V8). And that presumes you drive the car as if you feel good about your driving when you keep up with the soccer mom in the minivan next to you. If you drive in a more spirited manner, occassionally put your foot to the floor, autocross, or maybe participate in a track day, then 1200ppm phosphorus is not enough.

Valvoline VR1, at 1300ppm phosphorus, is a nice start.
Brad-Penn at 1400ppm phosphorus is better.
Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin Motorcycle oil at 1600ppm phosphorus is better yet.
And there are other good oils in that range.

The harder you drive your car, the higher the phosphorus concentration you should use... to a point. Short of racing, there's probably little need for more than 1600ppm phosphorus.

Some low-ZDDP advocates will point out that ZINC in concentrations above 1500ppm can errode the metals in an engine. True. It eats away at the interstitial boundaries between the grains. What they don't tell you is that the glacial rate of errosion is nothing compared to the high rate of wear if you don't have enough phosphorus in the oil. Too much zinc is using a tack hammer, while too little phosphorus is using a sledge hammer. Your choice.

ZDDP has been the source for phosphours in motor oils for eons, primarly because it's inexpensive, and it works. With the modern movement to limit ZDDP for the sake of cat converters, other more expensive anti-wear additives are being used in some oils. It's quite possible that some modern low-ZDDP oil might contain other anti-wear additives, and can protect your engine very well... maybe beter. But the vast majority of oil companies will NOT tell you what is in their oils, or how effective it is... "Trust us !" No way!! The nice thing about a known high-quality, high-phosphorus oil from a respected brand is that you have a pretty good idea of how well it will protect your engine.

Regards,
Tim Engel

 

Would be tempted to use Mobil-1 20w50 V-Twin Motorcycle oil (i.e. the rebranded older 20w50 Motorsport) but am hesitant in exposing the cats to excessive P/Zn levels. Plus it falls outside Lotus recommendation of <=15w as the max for cold weather viscosity. So 15w50 seems to be a reasonable middle road approach.

ZDDP does not poison cat converters like tetra-ethyl-lead did back in the day. 'Lead' had to go. ZDDP has been co-existing with cat converters since cats were first added to cars. The problem is that ZDDP can hinder a cat's ability to reach it's maximum service life. There is a gov't mandate that auto manufacturers must warranty the emissions equipment separate from the car's general warranty. And the bar for that emissions warranty keeps getting raised. When the gov't mandated that they must warranty the emissions equipment for 150,000 miles, it then became likely that 'some' of the cat converters being installed 'might' not make it to 150k, and the auto manufacturer would have to pay to replace it. Now, maybe they could have built a better cat converter, but that would have cost more than a nickel per car... so that was out. Instead, they lobbied to hopefully 'eliminate' ZDDP, but at least drastically reduce it. It was greed, it was all about protecting their own wallets, and they didn't care how much it cost the owners of cars that were already on the road.

Using a high ZDDP oil in your Esprit V8 won't cause it's cats to die any faster than anyother cat converter you've ever owned. And in the distant past, you would have had to pay for the replacement cat(s). But now, thanks to the gov't mandate, it just 'might' be the manufacturer who has to pay to replace the cats... except that the automotive industry said "HELL NO !!" to that. So, the question for you is...

Would you rather pay to replace a catalytic converter (or two) when it finally dies... maybe a little earlier than optimal due to the pressence of more ZDDP, or...

Would you rather pay to rebuild the engine that failed due to insufficient anti-wear additive in the oil (phosphorus)... an engine that will be out of warranty by then.

Your choice.

The auto manufacturers as an industry are more than happy to stick you with a huge bill for an engine rebuild, especially if it means they can save a few bucks on a cat converter replacement. You don't have to be more concerned for them than they have already demonstrated (as an industry) that they are concerned about you.

The API likes to say "NEVER put an uncertified oil in your engine". To the contrary, if you own a older car, a high performance car, or especially an older high performance car, then an 'UNCERTIFIED OIL' may be exactly what it needs ! Do you follow meekly, or walk your own path?

Regards,
Tim Engel

 

As to the metal housing of the filter diminishing the magnet on the Formula Car.........yeah maybe.......at the 40th decimal point. All one need do, using new oil and a new filter, as I have done, is cut open a filter with mag still in place after about 200 miles and seen the dark streak inside the housing.....which says it was doing something and saving something too.
The Formula car is dry sump, so one does not change the oil by draining it at the pan. Now imagine a wet sump Lotus after 1,500 miles with a magnet on the filter and a magnet plug.

 

Just an FYI/food for thought. I inquired with Mobil tech support as to their specific recommendations for the V8 Esprit, with its DOHC/flat tappets and possibly late 90's metallurgical characteristics. They requested and I provided Lotus' (Esprit owner's manual) recommendations and specs for engine oil.

Following is their response, which is condensed from 2 emails. For reference and context my comments and questions I asked are inserted in [[ double brackets ]]. Mobil responses are italicized bold text enclosed in double "" quotes. ""

It's a bit long, but here goes. The first sentence is in reference to the Lotus factory recommendations on engine oil:

"" They seem to say the V8 will be happy with a 30, 40, or 50, and are logically focused on 0W and 5W oils as the best for start-up protection. I would like to point out that you will have an easier time finding our 0W-40 (with the same zinc/phosphorus levels as 5W-50), though. Meanwhile, everything I have in 5W-30 or 0W-30 is going to drop zinc and phosphorus to significantly lower levels. I would stay focused on SAE grades ending in 40 or 50.

Mobil 1 FS 0W-40, aka "European Car Formula" is going to be a safe option. It will make your life a little easier than chasing 5W-50, and you'll probably see a little better fuel mileage if you take the car on a road trip. Even Walmart carries this stuff. It would be my best recommendation for the Lotus. The same product goes into performance models from Porsche as well as AMG Mercedes. I don't think you can go wrong here.

Mobil 1™ FS 0W-40| Mobil™ ""

[[ I am leaning toward Mobil-1 15w50 to get the higher 1200/1300 ppm phosphorus/zinc content. Minimizing engine wear on this engine is a much higher priority for me than maximising the fuel mileage. ]]

"" One thing about your message jumped out at me, immediately.

"Minimizing engine wear on this engine is a much higher priority for me than maximizing the fuel mileage."

When addressing engine wear, start-up protection is important as well, and that boils down to the "W" number. When the engine and oil are allowed to cool to ambient air temperature, the W number tells us how hard or how easy it is to pump oil through the engine until it warms up. High W numbers represent heavier oils which are harder to pump. Low W numbers are easier to pump when cool.

The choice of hard/easy oils has a direct impact on engine wear. The harder it is to pump an oil, the longer the engine spins with an insufficient coat of oil before the pump can refresh that coating. Easier pumping cool oil means everything gets that fresh coat as quickly as possible, bringing start-up wear to a minimum. 0W-40 is going to provide better start up protection than anything starting with 5W, 10W, etc. Yes, though, you're correct, we only have that one 15W-50 you've seen at Walmart.

My other concern regarding the 15W-50 is precisely the zinc and phosphorus levels on which you're focused. The reason MOST modern motor oils have reduced zinc and phosphorus levels is to preserve the function of your emissions equipment. Levels of 1300/1200 are going to have a significant impact, unless you swap to an off-road exhaust. Even the 1100/1000 figures on Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 and Mobil 1 FS X2 5W-50 are rough on emissions equipment, but they're intended as a balancing point, with the plan that catalytic converters are easier to replace than cams and followers, but ideally we want to preserve both as long as possible. ""

[[ Am also considering V-Twin 20w50 with 1600/1750 ppm P/Zn. Have heard this is a version of an earlier Mobil-1 product that was rebranded due to it carrying the older API SJ rating instead of the latest (SN?). Am a little hesitant because at the same time I don't want to prematurely kill the catalytic converters due to excess P/Zn. ]]

"" The Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 makes the issues of start up wear AND emissions equipment damage both that much worse. Additionally, it's designed specifically for the reduced friction characteristics necessary in a motorcycle wet clutch pack. I would totally avoid this one in the Lotus. ""

[[ Was also thinking about trying a non-zinc additive for wear prevention. Any thoughts on that would be welcome:

https://www.amazon.com/Hy-Lube-Zinc-Replacement-Additive/dp/B002C6E0VU ]]

"" Supplemental additives really should not be necessary in an engine of this vintage. Even in a significantly older engine for which there is no modern "perfect" oil, we still discourage supplements on the basis that they will void the warranty coverage we use to back our products. My warranty may not be something that matters to you, but as a matter of internal policy, it limits what I can recommend. ""

 

Not to "knock" Mobil or it's products BUT, asking them to recommend an oil is a loaded question. Because you are asking them, and they make and sell oils, they will steer you to one of their products that most closely fits your needs. Pay attention to "most closely". While that may be adequate, it also may not. They have a built in conflict of interest and want to sell you their product. To do that they will sell you what is their closest fit. They can't and won't tell you that a competitor will have a better product. For a truly independent answer you need to go to an authority that doesn't sell oil and can tell you what is best, not what any particular company makes is the best fit. Kind of like insurance agents. If you go to State Farm they can only sell you whatever products State Farm can offer. An independent agent will go out and find the best product that suits YOU, not what suits any particular company. All that being said Mobil does make excellent products and their advice in general is useful. Bob the Oil Guy is probably a better independent source. Once you start talking about oils it is almost as bad as talking religion or politics. Some people have very strong opinions. Yes, start-up is hard on an engine, some claim the largest majority of the wear an engine will experience is during start-up, especially on an engine that may not start often and the oil film is gone. Oil manufacturers go to great lengths to find ways for the oil to stay on the surfaces and not run off or evaporate. On many large stand by type engines they may have a pressurized pre-oiler that will circulate oil in the motor before it even is allowed to crank so it can have a film of oil in the bearings before it even turns over. You can get obsessive about this kind of stuff but before you do, realize that in all of the motors that have been torn down, excessive wear in the main bearings and valve train is usually not a problem if the oil was changed regularly with good oil and a good filter.
David Teitelbaum