I think it's more like the clutch master cylinder issue. Also potentially vapor in the clutch line. Clutch issue would have different symptoms.

Headed to Orange County, CA?

Safe travels for you and the car, wherever you're headed!

 

Unless the clutch was thrashed, it's probably hydraulics. If there's no record of the OE master cylinder being replaced with an aftermarket, chances are good that it needs one.

Congrats btw on snagging an Evora. Let me guess, it's black?

 

Haha, I wish, probably wouldn't be in the situation I'm in!
Note to self: buy that dudes car

 

Could be anything from a bad master, bad slave, fluid needs flushed, all the way to a ruined pressure plate or throwout bearing.

I'd start with the hydraulics. Easy enough to get eyes on the Slave (from below) and see if it moves when you push in the clutch.

 

start with the hydraulics and get that sorted before you really trash the clutch.

 

like others said it sounds like you are not even getting to the point where the clutch functions....somewhere between your foot and the clutch is probably the issue. best of luck. i had to replace my clutch master cyliner last year on my 2011 at 35,XXX miles...second owner. common problem...the rubber seals basically melting and showed up when doing a break fluid flush lol!!

 

*brake...i know the difference

 

-Preemptively ordered the Wilwood MC
-Remaining wildly pessimistic

The dropped clutch pedal was only the very last symptom. Can other owners confirm strong resistance when trying to shift into gears? Wrench/engine lights?

I will say it seems obvious that whatever this issue is, it's the aftermath of running the car for 750 miles in Texas nonstop.

*I know absolutely nothing about mechanical issues so I greatly appreciate all your help.

 

A dropped clutch pedal is fairly common when the m/c is failing or has failed. Some have had the opposite though; a stiff pedal that won't easily go to the floor. Both ended up being m/c-related.

Any time that you can't create enough pressure in the hydraulic line to move the release fork will likely result in resistance in shifting since you're not completely disengaging the clutch.

If you got a wrench and/or the MIL lights, those are likely something else. You'll want to get an OBD reader if you don't already have one.

 

As someone shopping evoras - subscribed to see what the issue turns out to be.

 

OC Evora owner here. That sucks! I'm not the one to give any advice on this but hope it turns out ok.

 

I have an early 2010, and I know the clutch was done really recently.

I have no idea if they did the master though, and I haven't pulled the clam to find out.

After coming from the BMW world of failing rod bearings and tearing unibodies, this Lotus is refreshingly simple to deal with. I still like my BMWs, I just did a set of rod bearings yesterday, but a bad master cylinder is pretty basic by comparison.

That's to say 'Buy it, you won't regret it'.

Most people who seem to sell their Evoras are either upgrading or are the sort of people who want something other than excellent driving dynamics.

 

I had a 2014 Evora NA. Exact same symptoms as you mentioned. It ended up being the master cylinder. Cost me about $1k. Worked great after that.

 

Generally manual cars will shift smoothly when the vehicle is off. No clutch pedal needed as there are no moving shafts or gears. Clutch pedal sitting on the firewall would have me thinking hydraulics. Sorry to hear but things will work out for you. Did the prior 750 miles have you smiling and playing like a kid behind the wheel?

 

Well it was burning through 750 miles of a straight line drafting behind semis. But the brief time I had wheeling around town was...this car is WAY underrated. If this ends up a major expense, not sure if I'll keep it, but this thread has given me hope.

 

Its been stated numerous times already, but most likely M/C related issue. Probably 95% of owners on here with shifting issues have been caused by cooked fluid, bad M/C seals etc.

When getting it sorted make sure the clutch line has the heat wrap. If not, have it added. Also, the maintenance schedule says fluid change every two years. I do it every year and only use quality fluid (Castrol React SRF).

Heat wrap:

https://fifthgear.biz/images/blog/Lotus%20TSB/Fifth%20Gear%20Automotive%20European%20Auto%20Repair%20Lewisville%20TX%20Lotus%20Evora%20Clutch%20Line%20Heat%20Wrap%20TSB%20page%201%20thumbnail.jpg

Also, as agentdr8 mentioned, get a reader to sort out the code issues. They could be caused by something as simple as a $20 brake switch which has failed for numerous LT owners over the years. Low battery (causing weird electrical stuff, trip a CEL or airbag light), brake switch (wrench, T/C light, no Sport function) and M/C issues (dreaded pedal drop) are probably the most common issues discussed here.

Good luck getting it sorted!

 

Clutch Master Cylinder replace and Air Conditioning Fix

Hi All, I was originally registered as "2late" but due to my inadequate administration I had to re-register so, no welcome thread needed. But, I do want to share a few things we, my excellent mechanic, Andy, and I found when we replaced the clutch master cylinder on my 2010 Evora. We removed...

www.lotustalk.com

Don't sell it. Read my post and replace the master cylinder. Then find some twisty road and all will be well.

You bought a car that you can get everything for an oil change at WalMart but a new headlight costs 3 grand. It's all part of the Lotus mystique. You will also notice after a while that when you turn onto an "S" shaped on-ramp your brain will whisper "Chicane".

 

-Car landed at A1 Automotive in San Gabriel, recommended by this forum.
-Harry seems like the man, super friendly and professional - seems to think that it's the master cylinder as well.
-Holding breath.

 

Stick foot under clutch pedal. Lift with some pressure when mpedal is at top of travel. Helps it refiil. Then pump several times. It will get you home!

DO NOT WASTE TIME REPLACING WITHE STOCK POS. GRP HAS WHAT YOU NEED!!!

 

Im in the dallas area with my evora. We have two local shops here and one in Austin that are licensed lotus repair amd sales shops..never had this issue. I have a 2013 though

 

There is one called sports car world in dallas.. a new one called earth motorcars in addison area and austin lotus!

 

Forgot to update this thread!

Yup, master clutch fixed the issue. This community is insane.


On a sad note, I plan on selling the car, so if anyone is interested, let me know (35k miles, I bought for 40k).
The car is amazing, actually even better than I was hoping. I'm not happy about this but I have an investment opportunity (even though I know these cars are appreciating!) however, will be downgrading. 😢
If everything goes to plan though I'll be back.

 

Hey ptykozoon, are you still planning on selling? I might be interested, Im from orange county.

 

Just bought 2010 Evora, which had a new clutch/flywheel, and bearing at 17,000 miles. Drove from Dallas to Kansas City, lost clutch (foot to floorboard) at 200 miles outside temp was 95F. Stopped for gas open "frunk" over engine let it sit for 15-20 mins. The Clutch worked okay, back on road again, started to lose the clutch again, it started to ran cooled down to 75F clutch came back. Car drives okay with 75-80 F temp. Basically fluid is boiling at these high ambients as it is next to the exhaust manifold. I'm changing to the new Motul 600, gatting some heat shield/fire wrap for the complete clutch line on underside. May cut undertray near the slave cylinder to allow more airflow around the exhaust which is very close to the clutch line. I will also look into BOE who make a cooling tray for the underside, along with their newer Master cylinder. Other than that car is great