I ended up picking up a less expensive 2011 evora S. The car did have a Salvage title with the story of no frame damage just panels from a side swipe on the drivers side. Car had 12,000 total miles. Thinking this car was totaled sat forever and then pieced back together. After pulling history car was new in 2011. In 2012 it had a savage title assigned. From there all reports of mileage grew slowly over the years and the owner stayed the same from new till early this year. This changed my mind on considering purchase. Talked with the current owner and came to a price, knowing the wheels were tweaked and list of minor cosmetic issues. The car was 800 miles away but close to my brother so I sent my brother the money and he drove to look at it. It looked as advertised so he picked it up and drove it home. My thought was to go up there and drive it back but chickened out and had it shipped. Glad I did because the noise from the right bent wheel would have been miserable for a 10 hour drive. Once I got it here I drove it for a couple of days and of course like it. Once I got the state inspection on it decided to get the wheels fixed and do a good inspection. So far everything looks good just running into 10 years of poor maintenance. I do see the glass repairs where they say. The damage occured with no signs of structure damage.
My Evora S project
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Grady
41 - 60 of 170 Posts
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622 Posts
I honestly don’t feel like making that change would result in you feeling cramped. I know everybody is different etc etc, but visually there’s such a small amount of those grey surfaces that’s within your normal driving field of vision. Just the drivers pillar, headliner area up to about the garage opener level, and your driver’s side cute little Power Wheels sized but completely functionally worthless drop down sun visor. Also tbh the goal SHOULD be a cockpit type visual feeling in car like this.
On the flip side, the benefits of a proper all black interior will make a world of difference visually, and honestly I’d bet almost just as big of a visual difference on the outside of the car as well. Those super super light grey front interior pillars, which are also quite substantial for a car this size, stand out like they’re lit up with LED lights when looking at the front of the car from the outside. This is actually one of my biggest asthetical pet peeves about this car.
/rant. I don’t want to derail OP’s thread.
Bit the bullet today. Decided I got about as much use out of the clutch as I could. Started the rear clam/interior removal. List of projects during this disassembly.
Transmission.
Clutch
MWR gear set.
LSD.
Engine has 14k miles on it but will be disassembled and upgraded. Shooting for a 8k red line and hoping for 450hp. Probably will not make it there, but will be over 400.
BOE
Headers
Boost up
Ported heads
Cams
Springs
Titanium valves
Sleved block at 97mm
Light weight rods
Pistons
Interior will be cleaned up.
Better stereo components, Speakers/amp ect
Shifter and cables
True keyless entry and push button start
New coil overs
2 price rotors
More CF bits as I find them.
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Transmission.
Clutch
MWR gear set.
LSD.
Engine has 14k miles on it but will be disassembled and upgraded. Shooting for a 8k red line and hoping for 450hp. Probably will not make it there, but will be over 400.
BOE
Headers
Boost up
Ported heads
Cams
Springs
Titanium valves
Sleved block at 97mm
Light weight rods
Pistons
Interior will be cleaned up.
Better stereo components, Speakers/amp ect
Shifter and cables
True keyless entry and push button start
New coil overs
2 price rotors
More CF bits as I find them.
Joined
·
1,774 Posts
Sounds like a fun project! Will you also be doing a different ECU?
Going with BOE cable. Not positive if I will tune or pay BOE. Going to download the ECU and see how sophisticated the ECU is. I have tuned cars before but all were NA. When I boosted my BRZ I went with someone who had a lot of experience. When I downloaded my 19 Ranger it had so many tables I decided it was not worth learning if you can pay someone $400 to do it.
Another productive day. This car was disassembled more than I thought but still happy with my findings of absolutely no cassis damage. One area I was concerned about when I bought it was the repair on the drivers side. The clam seam in the door seal was suspicious. My thoughts were right and they did the clam repair with it installed and bonded it to the car. I had to cut the clam off in that area so add some fiberglass repair to my list. list of other stupid stuff I found.
Once again incorrect hardware and missing hardware in areas.
Right pre tensioner was disconnected from the seat belt.
Left fuse panel distribution box was broken from mount. Will repair this instead of re-wire.
AC and Recirculation plugs were swapped. Wondered why my car had to be in recirculation for the AC to work.
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Got the interior disassembled and all the components that will be replaced pulled.
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Once again incorrect hardware and missing hardware in areas.
Right pre tensioner was disconnected from the seat belt.
Left fuse panel distribution box was broken from mount. Will repair this instead of re-wire.
AC and Recirculation plugs were swapped. Wondered why my car had to be in recirculation for the AC to work.
Got the interior disassembled and all the components that will be replaced pulled.
Joined
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1,774 Posts
Will you also be keeping the S2 bit of having to turn the key on the wheel or moving everything to the button?
Key is going away, except for manually unlocking the door if needed.
Ok proof of concept today on keyless entry and push button start. When you walk away from the car it will lock automaticly. As you approach the car is will unlock automatically. With this I did lose steering lock, automatic starter and fuel pump cut out. I do not have a brake switch or clutch switch attached yet. That is why you have to push and hold the start button to get it to operate. Quick video of walking up to it and starting. You can here it unlock just from me getting close.
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25 Posts
Amazing progress
Joined
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4,534 Posts
Love when people think outside of the box. Great job. 
Joined
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326 Posts
What did you need to do to align the bumper and clam?
I had to lower the fwd mount and raise the side mounts fwd of the wheel well.
Ok just about wrapping up all the electrical upgrades. Spent about a day and half routing and securing wires. Today got the last of the wires ran to handle the new amp. It is some recycled car audio equipment I had. The Amp is a JL audio 500/5 5 chanel. The door mid range drivers are some old 6 inch subs I had. The 8 inch sub is a new dual voice coil shallow mount. I did reuse the tweeters but pushed them to far in tuning out the system and tore the domes. This set up is using an active cross over for the front speakers. Now it is time to do the final wire clean up and start reassembling the interior.
Next do the GT430 nose, tail, and wing!
Joined
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4,179 Posts
Nice, but as a tip, go with the MY12+ curtains next time, which are plastic, instead of the foam ones that rip after one removal. Just require a hole to be drilled for the cable exit. Rubber grommet or a piece of duct tape seals it well.
Thanks! But I am hoping there is not a next time.
Interior is gong in the right direction now. As usual ran into needing some more parts. I am glad I have a good source for Lotus parts now. I email a parts list, get a call when they are here and go about 2 miles out of my way on the drive home to pick up. No freight and a 5% discount.
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And no more key in the colum. Only had some fake CF vinyl, cut a circle out and it does not look that bad.
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And no more key in the colum. Only had some fake CF vinyl, cut a circle out and it does not look that bad.
41 - 60 of 170 Posts
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