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In the last couple of months, Prescott has had hotter than normal temperatures (90-99 degrees during the day) but nowhere near as hot as Phoenix (105-112). It's been a little over a year since the clutch master cylinder was replaced (2nd one) and I installed the high temp fluid thinking this would solve the problem in the future, NOT! I only have 12k miles on the car and drive it pretty easy, no tracking or racing. Now the clutch is starting to fail again just as the last one did, the pedal is falling to the floor after the car has been driven and parked overnight. As this earlier thread entails, I even insulated the entire fluid line in the engine compartment so as to protect it from the high heat the engine puts out. I'm convinced the master clutch cylinders being used in the Evora are not handling the amount of heat produced in hotter areas of the country. I was told the last mc installed was an updated version but here is just one year later and this one is failing. I wonder if they improved it on the 400? I hope so and if so, perhaps they can put a newer improved version in my car? I'm still under warranty but now I'm worried this will be an ongoing problem even after my warranty runs out? Not only is the clutch mc shot again, but my air conditioning just instantly went out last week, the little wrench icon came on and indicates there is an electrical problem. Then my fuel gauge went dead and stopped working but has since came back on. I've got 8 more months of the factory warranty and if these all happened after the warranty ran out, this would be major expenses for a car with only 12k miles. I've loved the car but now am totally gun shy that the clutch mc will go out again after the warranty runs out. Has anybody else discovered a permanent fix for this problem? :frown2:
any update on this? did you replace with the wilwood m/c?
 

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any update on this? did you replace with the wilwood m/c?
The Wilwood is about as good of a permanent fix as it gets. It's a much better design and can be rebuilt from the interior side, so once it's mounted, you should never need to remove the front clam again for clutch m/c issues.
 

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Hello,
I heard that there was a campaign to recall the door latches but my dealer (Bellevue WA) told me that there was not actually a recall. Mine are unpredictable. I had to love the trunk latch up a bit too to get it to work properly
Mick
 

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any update on this? did you replace with the wilwood m/c?
No, the dealership would only use an OEM MC, but they claim it was improved and they also added a braided feed hose that was suppose to help. I ran out of factory warranty but I did buy an extended warranty, although I hope I don't have to use it for another MC, but if I do, I'm going to demand they install a Wilwood MC even if I have to add some money, I'm tired of having to replace cheap plastic units! Time will tell. :scratchhead:
 

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Some pertinent TSB's
 

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Does anyone actually have the 2009 / 13 SB that is mentioned in the water ingress document? I think I have that problem on my passenger side, but wonder if the specific SB has more details/diagrams before I drill a larger hole in the door.
 

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Does anyone actually have the 2009 / 13 SB that is mentioned in the water ingress document? I think I have that problem on my passenger side, but wonder if the specific SB has more details/diagrams before I drill a larger hole in the door.
I have copies of both 2009/15 (Water ingress; areas of attention-To highlight potential sources of water ingress into the cabin and rear luggage compartment) and 2009/13 (Addition of second drain hole to Evora door shell.-To prevent retention of water in door when parked on a slope.).

PM me your email and I will send them to you. I don't know how to post them for viewing.. :shrug:
 
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