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1984-88 Bosch CIS K-Jetronic injected Esprits

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158K views 332 replies 39 participants last post by  MRDANGERUS  
#1 · (Edited)
With the time passing by, I'm getting concerned about future availability of CIS components for our Esprits. I'd recommend getting "spares" now, before they get totally unobtainable.

Auxilliary Bypass Valve:ford number is 6129467 or Bosch number 0280142020
It was used on Ford Sierra XR4i (1984)
Top domains for Bosch auto parts: http://65.39.72.142/Term.aspx?t=20880868&org=50

Considering the function of auxiliary bypass valve and Chapman"s "design" practices, do you think Audi or Volvo part would fit properly?
Personally I think it would... as long as connectors are the same.

Check the price fluctuations dependent on the model application.
Any part labeled Porsche or Maserati is 5x more expensive

Auxiliary Air Valve | eBay

Buy, buy, buy!
Cheers
 
#2 ·
MRDANGERUS said:
PS. What is the easiest way to run couple wires between engine bay and dashboard. I want to add couple of gauges to my engine.

Cheers
Click to expand...
Regarding P.S., you could follow the routing of the throttle cable.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Fuel filters

Just finished installing 85 micron Earl's (PN#230210) inline filter plumbed it between the fuel tank and primary pump. On 86-88 Bosch CIS cars the cleanliness of the fuel system is critical! Gasoline with hi content of Ethanol is highly corrosive and speeds up deterioration of the rubber, aluminum and the tanks. I lost my primary pump to rust debris ingestion from the right tank sump. Therefore a pre-filter is a must!!!
Fuel accumulator failed, too. It sprung a small leak, probably due to the same reason. My after-pumps filter was full of brown rust sediment! When flushing the tanks, don't forget that most of the crud concentrates in the cross car pipe (lowest point of the fuel system) and right tank sump where the drain plug is located. CIS injected cars have NO STRAINER at the intake pipe opening.
Major F...up on the part of the Lotus Engineering!
 

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J
#4 ·
Many of the K-Jet parts cross over to the Delorean. Check with SpecialTauto.com Sometimes the only differences between parts are the way a part mounts. You can always modify the mounting if necessary. At this point I would not be overly concerned about parts availability. Putting parts on the shelf is not always the best idea. Parts age, get misplaced or damaged, and you might not have the part you need. If you do buy a part and try to use it years later and find out it is bad you cannot return it. The K-Jet system is a very reliable and rugged system but it does not tolerate dirt well and because of the many rubber seals it ages and eventually you must replace all of the rubber. Rubber does not store well so you will always need fresh stock. Always keep fresh fuel in the car and if the car is stored for any length of time (over Winter for instance) all of the fuel should be removed. This way, when you "wake" the car up you can start it with fresh fuel. Fuel stabilizer makes fuel less volatile so it stores better. Just what you want, less volatile fuel!!!!!!!
David Teitelbaum
 
#5 ·
100% dead-on. My '87 Injection system is in perfect working order. I use Lucas injection cleaner/lubricant each fill up, I drive the car regularly, I never let the car get close to empty since that could disturb some yukky stuff in the tanks, I use marine-grade stabilizer over the winter(higher-grade than the auto-stuff), and keep the fuel filter fresh.

Do all that - and the injection system will last forever and you may not even have to mess with any seals. My car has an all-original fuel system(sans service items like filters) and its all still tight & perfect. :clap:

I agree though that just loading up on parts for "possible" use many years later doesnt really work.
 
J
#6 ·
I would go easy on injector cleaner. Too much of a good thing. Modern fuels actually contain cleaners as part of the additive package because just about all cars today have fuel injection. What you can do is "once-in-a-while" put Techron into a full tank and then run the tank all the way down. Too much cleaner will attack the soft parts and age them prematurely. Bad enough all of the alcohol (formally known as Dry Gas to us older members!) that is already in the fuel!!!!!!!! It sucks up moisture so if there isn't any in the fuel it will pull it out of the air! One of the big reasons modern fuel does not store well.
David Teitelbaum
 
#7 ·
Actually David, the lucas stuff isnt really an injector cleaner - its a fuel conditioner and fuel system lubricant. Almost pours out like a light oil. I use the recommended amount every tankful or thereabouts. My previous owner used it for years and with everything working nicely as it is now I just kept up the tradition. I believe it counters the effects of the crappy gas we have now.

I agree though - no need to go overboard with any additives. :up:
 
J
#8 ·
I would still go easy on additives. You never really know how they interact with all of the stuff they are putting into the gasoline nowadays. The fuel system was meant to work OK without your having to add stuff. Keep the fuel system clean and the fuel fresh and that is about all you should have to do. As for not letting the car get low, that is a myth. On modern fuel-injected cars the fuel pump is constantly circulating fuel from the bottom of the fuel tank through the filter to the Primary Pressure Regulator and back to the fuel tank. There could be a small amount of dirt/debris/water at the very bottom of the sump in the tank but it is minimal. All of the junk is supposed to be in the fuel filter. Which is why it should be changed at the recommended service interval or if you get a bad tank of gas. As for "Marine-Grade" it is probably just more concentrated because boat fuel tanks are generally larger. I still say if the car is to be stored any length of time ALL of the fuel should be removed.
David Teitelbaum
 
#9 ·
Duly noted - and thanks for the "myth" explanation. I always thought it better to keep adding new fuel. Either way - the last thing I ever want to do is run out of gas so with such a large fule capacity, topping it up regularly isnt a big deal anyways. :)

As for "length of time" regarding storage, my car sits untouched for basically 4 months: December through March each year. Never more than that. I dont need to empty her out, do I? I didnt last year and she fired right up just as normal and ran good right outta the gate. I filled it to the top with fresh gas and used two bottles of stabilizer. I also ran it for a few minutes to let the stabilizer get through the system, I figured why not?

The fuel filter appears to be(according to my recommended service interval data)a C-service item and thats when mine was last changed. Does that seem frequent enough?
 
J
#10 ·
The reason I recommend storing the car with empty tanks is that current recommendations from the gas companies is that after 6 months the fuel is considered stale. If you talk to the small engine shops that service lawnmowers, tractors and such they will tell you it is bad after 1 month! The biggest reason IMHO is all to often I see cars that were "parked" for "just a short while". 10 years later that fuel has destroyed the whole fuel system! Besides, when you take the car out of storage do you really want "less volatile" fuel in there because of the fuel stabilizer or would you be better off with a full tank of fresh stuff? Also less to burn if the worst should ever happen.
David Teitelbaum
 
#11 · (Edited)
I'd like to confirm that the WUR PN# on our cars is the same. Just to be sure that Lotus installed the same parts from 85 to 88'.
Mine is Bosch 0 438 140 026

Here are a couple other component numbers.
Pump primary 0 580 254 967 (could be substituted by 0 580 254 984)
Pump secondary 0 580 254 979 (could be substituted by 0 580 254 044)
WUR Bosch 0 438 140 026
Air by-pass valve Bosch 0 280 142 020 (Lotus# 910E6754F)
Aux. air valve Bosch 0 140 140 143 (Fits the following applications

AUDI 4000 1982 1983,
AUDI 5000 1982 1983
S: 1982 1983
TURBO: 1982 1983
AUDI COUPE: 1981 1982
GT: 1983 1984
VOLKSWAGEN QUANTUM
CUSTOM: 1983
GL CUSTOM: 1984
GL DELUXE: 1984

Fuel distributor head Bosch 0 438 100 144

BOOKS EXPLAINING CIS SYSTEMS :
How to Tune and Modify Bosch Fuel Injection (Motorbooks Workshop), B Watson
ISBN-10: 0879385707
Many good points and specifications for all Bosch systems. From the earliest VW systems to the latest. The modification chapter is short and lacks greatly.

BOOK: Bosch Fuel Injection Systems, Forbes Aird
ISBN-10: 1557883653
This easy to read manual includes basic operating principles of Bosch's CIS K-Jet, KE and pulsed fuel injection systems; D-L- and LH-Jetronic, LH-Motonic tuning and troubleshooting; also some info about high-performance applications.

The Best Book:
Bosch Fuel Injection and Engine Management: How to Understand, Service and Modify, by Charles O. Probst
ISBN-10: 9780837603001
This is an authoritative manual on Bosch Fuel injection; the only book that fully explains all aspects of these Bosch systems: Motronic, L-Jetronic, LH-Jetronic, LH-Motronic, D-Jetronic, K-Jetronic, KE-Jetronic, and KE-Motronic. You will find specific information on the newest KE-Motronic and LH-Motronic systems that is not available from any other source.

IN ADDITION:
Here is a good information about Bosch CIS K-Jetronic injection tuning, trouble shooting, etc.
http://forums.vwvort...6-CIS-Injection

Megasquirt and other DIY parts: Home
 
#12 · (Edited)

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8
#273 ·
MRDANGERUS said:
NEW TOPIC

NEW TOPIC:

D-WUR FOR BOSCH CIS INJECTED ESPRITS
If you EVER considered adding intercooler, larger turbo or more boost - here is the device which makes it POSSIBLE!
I am are in the process of integrating it into my Esprit. Work in progress.
Here is a manual describing Digitally operated WUR.
UnwiredTools UTCIS™
Trbo Guys suppose to use UTCIS-PT.
UnwiredTools UTCIS-PT™

http://unwiredtools.com/manuals/UTCIS_Application_Guide_A2.pdf

If you are interested, PM me for "Group Buy" discount.
Click to expand...
I'm interested in charge-cooling a CIS Esprit. I've worked with many aftermarket sequential ECU's but not continuous systems. I assumed I'd have to fit cam and crank sensors etc and use an aftermarket e.g. Motec to get a good solution, but these digital WUR's seem interesting. Since there's still no CC out temp/air in temp I guess you just run the car on the safe side?
 
#13 ·
Hans has rebuilt my pumps for a fraction of the new units price. Fabulous expert!

H & R Fuel Injection Ltd.
(631) 589-1600
360 Knickerbocker Ave Ste 12
Bohemia, NY 11716
 
B
#14 ·
Regarding long term storage and fuel..there are two schools of thought on this. One is drain the tanks, which David has explained well. The other is to leave the tanks full. This really is done to stop moisture accumulating in the tank and rusting it from the inside out. Which is better is a personal choice.
 
J
#15 ·
I respectfully disagree. Moisture is going to get into the tank. I think we can all agree on that. The question is under what conditions will there be the *least* amount of damage over time. I would take a small amount of water at the bottom of the tank (which will accumulate under ALL circumstances) than a tankful of contaminated, highly combustible fuel which will rot everything it touches, not just the stuff at the bottom of the tank. I agree it is always a personal choice how the car will be stored but empty is preferable to full. Now the big question, what do you do for the brake system? Eventually the brake fluid absorbs enough moisture to start rotting the internal metal parts. One possibility is to flush the system every year or two. Usually not practical and doubtful it would be done. Difficult to completely drain so the only real choice is to substitute another fluid. Now the question becomes "What fluid"? Don't forget the clutch hydraulics.
David Teitelbaum
 
#16 ·
I flush/bleed/renew my brake and clutch fluids every year no matter what. This ensures they have limited contaminants and moisture in them. Its cheap and easy insurance. Everyone should do this.

As for the tanks, my car has been stored full with stabilizer by the previous owner and myself for like 10 years. If this system we used was gonna cause an epic failure of the fuel system I would have expected it to happen by now. My garage is partially heated/insulated and never gets extremely cold and the car is really only down for about 4 months max. I can see Davids points about emptying but since Ive never had an ill effect I think I'll just stay with whats been working for my car.
 
#17 ·
ETHANOL = BAD NEWS

Bad news for our cars!
The idiots in US congress approved increase of the ethanol content in pump gas up to 15%. Soon, we'll have to fight for clean gas like in the Mad Max movies.
Thanx to this website, I found one ethanol-free gas station within 40 miles range.
Here, you may look up one in your area
Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
 
#18 ·
MRDANGERUS said:
Bad news for our cars!
The idiots in US congress approved increase of the ethanol content in pump gas up to 15%. Soon, we'll have to fight for clean gas like in the Mad Max movies.
Thanx to this website, I found one ethanol-free gas station within 40 miles range.
Here, you may look up one in your area
Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada
Click to expand...
Its approved but there will be a lot of challenges and even lawsuits. This wont just be rammed down our throats. No way. There are WAY too many car enthusiaists amongst the wealthy and powerful to let this happen.

If alls you could get was E15 and that was it, that would be the end of the car hobby as we know it - unless your idea of the car hobby is a dorky, electric car or something. :rolleyes:

They'd better be careful here - There will be a LOT of pissed off people if they mess with car enthusiasts :evil: If they render my Esprit useless due to some EPA crap.... Ill start a murdering spree at the EPA office..... :D
 
#21 ·
Hey, Atwell,
What thermostat do you have in your Bosch injected car. Would switching to 180F thermo foul-up the engine management (lambda) function?
 
#23 ·
On a Bosch car there is not as much effect from cooler running as with the later GM MPFI Esprits. Still, I'd stay with stock. With the age of our injectors, a little extra warmth will help a marginal injector atomize the fuel. :UK:

I still run the OE spec, 82 degree C. thermostat. (When it's not malfunctioning! :mad: ) I'm gonna have to change it AGAIN before winter. :shrug:

My mechanic has indicated that there is a 74 degree C thermostat available. I'd have to read the Service Notes again on what happens after the Bosch system senses certain coolant temperatures.
 
J
#22 ·
There are temperature controlled valves and switches so you should use the correct thermostat as specified for your year, make, and model. If the engine does not reach it's proper operating temperature the temperature sensitive switches and valves may not be in the correct operating mode. Also running too cold can reduce your fuel economy and increase blow-by and emissions. Too hot and you reduce the running clearances of the rings, and bearings. Cold is safer than hot but for best performance you should be where the manufacturer has engineered the motor to be.
David Teitelbaum
 
#24 ·
#25 · (Edited)
D-WUR update.
Anyone considering fitting UTCIS unit is adviced to do away with Lucas 14AB ignition amplifier and convert to Pertronix Ignitor LU-142A.
Unfortunately, 14AB type ignition does not work with digital WUR.

The other way is to go with Greddy's Rebic IV unit connected between the fuel distributor Control Pressure side and the return line to the fuel tank. It would control frequency valve which varies the control pressure at the fuel distributor. This set up uses MAP and rpm signals together with frequency valve settings to create a smooth Air/Fuel ratio troughout the entire rpm range.


http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/Rebic_IV.pdf
 
#26 · (Edited)
1986, 1987, 1988 US Federal Turbo turbocharger unit specs.


88-92 Service Parts List shows Lotus PN# C910E6372F for US Federal cars. External waste gate.
Garrett T3, turbo TCO 301;
cold side A/R=0.42
Turbine side= 0.63 (?)

Table below, shows that the British version of 88 Esprit 2.2/16v
had A910E6959FA2, which is same as the later cars with TBO 373's.

CATERPILLAR TURBOCHARGER
 
#27 · (Edited)
The Turbocharger on USA Turbos with Bosch K-jetro Injection (86,87 & 88) are Garrett T3
Lotus Part No. C910E6372F (Listed in Lotus Parts Book)
Specification as follows :-

0.63 A/R Turbine
0.42 Comp = abysmally SMALL!
55 Trim Comp Wheel
Boost limited to 0.66 Bar

The European cars from 88 MY (X180 Intro) had Garrett T3 with 'Integral Wastegate'.
Lotus Part No. A910E6889F (Listed in Parts Book)
Specification as follows :-

0.48 A/R Turbine
0.42 Comp (too small !)
55 Trim Comp Wheel
Boost set at 0.66 Bar

Thanks to Brian Angus at Lotus Hethel for the above info.
 
#28 · (Edited)
K-Jetronic Esprit X180 turbocharger upgrades

LOTUS ESPRIT - TURBOCHARGER UPGRADES

From 1980-87, Lotus used the T3 turbocharger. It has .63 a/r turbine and .42 a/r compressor and EXTERNAL WASTEGATE.
It can be upgraded to compressor with super 60 a/r
like this one: http://www.mjmturbos...LotusTc0301.htm
When buying, you must specify if your turbo has an external wastegate.

Then from 1989-95, in US Lotus used T3/T4, but with an INTEGRAL WASTEGATE.
The upgrade looks like this
http://www.mjmturbos...worth-Lotus.jpg

Then all V8 has twin turbo, but using smaller turbo than the above.
They used a Garrett T25 which could be upgraded to T28 instead of T25.
It looks like this http://www.mjmturbos...8hYBRIDt04B.htm

For info and questions see:
http://www.mjmturbos...urbolicious.htm
 
#29 · (Edited)
Lotus Esprit Fuel Tanks flush procedure

Gasoline with ethanol is very corrosive and our tanks are 23 years old. I have 88 Turbo myself. They are very nice and Bosch CIS K-Jetronic injection system is pretty reliable, BUT this system is v. sensitive to contamination and pressure interruptions.
1. Find out how to safely jack up and support the Esprit (LotusEspritWorld.com)
2. Lift the rear of the car, [always use solid 4-legged or round base (NEVER tri-pod type) stands under the rr knuckles].
3. Remove the plastic underbelly pan
4. At the passenger side, under the tank, you will see your primary (black) and secondary(bright aluminum, toward the front) pumps, accumulator (green) and fuel filter (behind the pumps). There is a round 3-3.5" round hole in the fiberglass body, just under the tank. You will see the head of the fuel tank plug (13mm socket).
5. Get a helper to turn the ignition key on.
Lay down under the pumps and listen using mechanic's stethoscope. Slight humming/buzzing=good pump. Grinding noise or no noise at all=bad pump.
Usually the primary pump sucks the rust from the tank and craps out.
I had to rebuild the black (primary)pump.
Also, the filter was full of this fine rust "soup". It has to be replaced with Purolator F64857 (for SAAB 900 Turbo) or Bosch.
Look for any leaks from the back of the accumulator=bad diaphragm. If you see even a single drop, you'll need a new accumulator.
Before you disconnect any pumps you have to drain and flush the tanks and install a pre-filter BEFORE the primary pump. Lotus engineers screwed-up royally. They put the filter after the secondary pump, in front of the accumulator. Pumps are not protected against grit and rust from the tanks.
5. Get a helper, couple 5 gal clean buckets and 3-4 smaller (2-3gal) buckets and open the plug. Beware! Gas and sludge will come fast at you! Rotate buckets.
During this operation the battery must be disconnected and you must not have any live extension cords on the floor. Use long kitchen/cleaning gloves, use only flashlights and not hand held inspection lights=safety first!
6.De-sediment gas -let it stand for 15 minutes. Strain it.
Fill up 2.5-3 gal gas can which has a wide throat and sizable spigot.
7. Place a large container under the open plug at the right tank and rapidly dump the whole can of gas into the LEFT tank. Repeat until gas looks like it supposed to look-almost clear.
8. Repeat the same at least once pouring gas into the RH tank.
9. Close the plug and loosen the cross pipe between the tanks. dump couple cans into each tank to drive the grit from the pipe.
10. Do not fill the tanks; leave them dry for the time you'll be working on the pumps, filters, ect.
Remember, this is a temporary measure. Once tanks start rusting, you have to repeat this procedure every year. Never store your car over the winter with tank full of gas containing ethanol. It will speed up the corrosion process!
Here is the list of ethanol free gas stations: Ethanol-free gas stations in MD
Find one of these stations close to you and always store car for winter with tank full of "good" non-ethanol gas.
 
J
#30 ·
The Lotus engineers did not screw up. Typically you do not have a pump suck through a fine filter. The filters that are "pre pump" are just to keep the big junk out of the pump. Fine filtering is done after the pump where you can get a lot of pressure so when the filter loads up it can last longer with more dirt. Pumps are considered a wearable item so they are not intended to last forever. Even fuel tanks were not designed to last 30 years! And high alcohol content was not even considered in the fuel. If the tank is rusting eventually it will leak. The only fix is to remove the tank and have it cleaned and sealed. When I see that it is usually towards the top of the tank where all of the moisture precipitates out of the air. BTW when the filter on the suction side of the pump gets clogged the pump will run dry. That wears it out even faster so how is the filter "protecting" the pump?
David Teitelbaum
 
#53 · (Edited)
Obvious advantage of a pre-filter



Here is what my pre-filter/strainer (80 micron mesh) has caught. It prevented ingestion of major crud into expensive Bosch pumps. If you install pre-filter you must clean it at least once a year, though. Definitely, it is cheaper than new pumps!
A while ago, I read a technical article about a "Terne" coated steel (8% tin-led coating) used in construction of fuel tanks.

Oh, and by the way,
there never been any "factory" strainer on 86-88 Bosh injected cars! I checked it with a bore scope camera.
To prevent my aux. strainer filter from "loading up" with rust flakes, I'm going to mount it vertically and add a gravity/magnetic particle trap below. Gravity is free; use it to your advantage!

"Users of methanol blend fuels found an unsuspected cause of trouble in the gasoline tank, which traditionally has been made of "Terne” plated steel, a favorite roofing material of Victorian architects. It is steel sheet coated with lead, making it ideal for resisting rust from water in gas tanks. Methanol reacts with lead, slowly but surely, forming a flaky sludge that plugs filters in the fuel system. The easiest solution is to inspect and clean the filters every few days while using methanol fuel. The lead should all be eliminated within a couple of weeks of usage."
___________________________________________________
In the case of steel or aluminum tanks, both are conductive metals. Aluminum relies on an oxide layer for its corrosion protection properties. Steel relies on coatings for its corrosion protection. Low levels of ethanol, such as E10 (10%), are usually not a problem in aluminum tanks because the oxide layer provides a good measure of protection. What about steel? The problem occurs even with 10% ethanol content.

There are two mechanisms that occur with ethanol. Both mechanisms are a result of the hydroscopic property of ethanol, meaning it absorbs water. The more ethanol in the fuel, the more water there will be in the fuel tank. Water not only causes the tank to corrode, it also causes the corrosion particles to clog fuel filters, fuel systems, and damage engine components.

The second mechanism that can occur with the increased use of ethanol based fuel in aluminum or steel tanks is galvanic corrosion. Gasoline fuel is not conductive, but the presence of ethanol or ethanol and water will conduct electricity. Boat builders are able to protect exterior aluminum boat equipment with sacrificial anodes known as zincs. Sacrificial anodes are not a feasible option for the interior of a fuel tank. In the long term, corrosion can perforate aluminum or steel to produce leaks that would cause fuel to spill into the bilge and end up in the environment. In the worse case it could cause a fire and/or explosion hazard. Boat fuel tanks are often located under the deck next to the engine where the operator might not be aware of a leak until it was too late.

High Strength-Low Alloy Steels.
High strength-low alloy steels show improved corrosion resistance over carbon steels in rural and mild industrial environments. In marine atmospheres and in immersion services, however, the difference in performance between carbon and low-alloy steels is minor (see Seawater Corrosion & Material Selection). The primary advantage of these materials is their higher strength. But remember that the same amount of material loss will usually have a greater impact on the load carrying capacity of a high strength material than on a low strength material. The high strength-low alloy steels should be protected when used in marine environments. They are somewhat more cathodic than carbon steels.
Alloy Steels.
Steels with higher alloy content are more susceptible to pitting corrosion attack than steels with lower alloy content. Pitting is common in alloys with more than 5% total alloy content. Corrosion rates are similar to carbon and low alloy steels with pitting being only three to five times the corrosion rate calculated from weight loss.
Alloy steels are selected for their higher strength but can be susceptible to hydrogen embrittlement or stress corrosion cracking at yield strengths in excess 100 ksi. The alloy steels are somewhat more cathodic than carbon steels.
 

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#31 · (Edited)
CLEANING CIS INJECTORS

If you have any doubts about your ability to do this safely, don't do it.
You can clean CIS injectors very easily. You put a piece of fuel injection hose onto the threads of the injector. Make the piece of hose about a foot long maybe a bit more. Be sure to clamp it tightly to the injector. Now fill the hose with injector cleaner. Stick the end of the air blower nozzle and use about 60-85 psi to blow the fuel injector cleaner through the injector. Repeat about four or five times for each injector. Be sure the spray isn't at anything flammable or dangerous. Berryman Products Inc 0113C B-12 Parts Cleaner works very well.

If your injectors aren't worn out from all the years of use. This procedure will clean them up. But K-jet injectors do physically wear out and need to be replaced.
 
J
#32 ·
Your "procedure" to clean the injectors won't work any better than just putting some Techron into a tank of fuel and running the motor. The only way I know of to properly clean the injectors is with the injector/tester. I have been able to clean many injectors and to date have not had to replace any that were not cleanable. BTW, when you do clean injectors with the cleaner/tester, you use paint thinner. Less volatile than fuel but the same viscosity so the test results are reflective of using gasoline. Most Volvo dealers have a cleaner/tester and probably would not charge much to do a set. Just bring the specs so they can properly test it. My experience has been with the Bosch K Jet in the Delorean which although similar, has some differences. I have not seen a "worn out" injector yet but there are tiny screens inside them and there is no way to remove and clean it so, Yes, it is possible to "wear out" and injector by filling it with dirt. If you want to send me your injectors I can clean them for you.
David Teitelbaum
 
#33 ·
SAFETY ITEM-REPLACE 25 YR OLD HOSES

In the last decade, things started going downhill. Fuel chemistry has changed radically since the original hose was developed to resist high-octane aviation gas and jet fuels. Street gas was reformulated with weird additives and oxygenates. Reformulated gas can have up to 15 percent ethanol, and E85 (85 percent ethanol) is common in the Midwest. It's gotten to the point where there's at least 23 different regional street gas blends. The brew can also vary seasonally, and not every state imposes strict quality controls in the first place. Some blends have caused minimal problems, but others-particularly those with ethanol and other abrasive additives-cause drastic rubber compound degradation.
Although not as bad as street gas, many leaded, competition-only gas blends now have aggressive additives, that-while still allowing the blend to pass a sanctioning body's fuel check-are almost as caustic as alcohol fuels.
Whether with street or race gas, deterioration is accelerated when the car sits for a length of time. Some experts recommend purging the system, while others caution that the hose may dry rot if it doesn't remain wet. Knowing what to do is a real crapshoot. Definitely don't expect that bulk rubber-core racing hose bought years ago to still be viable even if it has just been sitting in storage. All rubber-based hose has a finite shelf life.
EFI Raises the Bar
Electronic fuel injection systems introduced yet more issues. Compared with carbureted systems, high-volume recirculation fuel injection setups have a serious effect on rubber-core hose due to the much greater amount of surface footage and volumes of fuel passing through them. Fuel returning to the tank on a recirculation-type system gets aerated, souring the gas and accelerating hose degradation because of increased oxidation and leaching of the tube elastomer. Additionally, more heat is transferred into the gas tank by fuel returning from the engine compartment, heating the fuel overall and further accelerating hose degradation. Today's engine compartments are also much hotter-at times approaching 400 degrees F-which impacts under hood hose big time. And fuel injection nozzles are easily clogged by rubber particles breaking loose from hose deteriorating on the inside.
Fuel vapors also permeate through rubber hose. If your car sits in an enclosed garage, that fuel-like smell is partially vapor evaporating through the hose.
If you just want reasonable longevity at a modest cost without regard to appearance, the budget, parts store solution is hose meeting SAE standard J30R9 or (just becoming available) the further improved J30R12. Although these hoses can operate at up to 180 psi, what really makes them better than generic parts store hoses are the improved materials they're made from, designed for contact with alcohols, diesel, oxygenate additives, and oxidized gas. Although the outer walls are usually still hydrogenated nitrile butadiene rubber (HNBR) or CPE, internally there's a thin fluoroelastomer, FKM, or Viton core. Collectively, the design also resists cracking caused by sour gas and reduces emissions because fuel can't evaporate through the hose. XRP is said to be working on a braided racing hose conforming to SAE J30R9 that may eventually replace traditional CPE-cored formulations. This would offer significantly improved durability but still keep down the price of race hose. We'll keep you updated on XRP's progress. While J30R9 is better than old-school fuel hose, like any rubber-based hose, it, too, eventually deteriorates. In fact, domestic OE new-car manufacturers have pretty much switched to Teflon-based hoses

Read more: Performance Fuel Hoses - Hot Rod Magazine
 

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#34 ·
In many respects the gasoline sold today is better than what was sold years ago. Much better quality control, less moisture, and less dirt. Better additives and oxygenates. In other respects it is worse, especially for older cars where the fuel system materials were never intended for such a high alcohol content or other additives. It also does not work well in carbureated cars and does not store well for long periods of time. Like it or not we have to configure our cars to run on it as best as we can, you have to figure it is only going to get worse. One of the first steps is to have the fuel tanks cleaned and sealed so they won't deteriorate and rust causing leaks and dirt to plug up the fuel system. Never store the car with fuel in it.
David Teitelbaum
 
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